Hi guys, I’m new to this forum. I bought a front parking cable for my 1978 ford f100 (RHD), but I have no idea how it fits into the actual handbrake. I’ve attached photos. I think the yellow pin has to fit inside the two long holes on either side pictured, but I don’t know how I would fit it into there. Help would be appreciated.

All the parts laid out


Too wide to fit in when put together outside

This part also doesn’t clip in. Does it need to?

 

Welcome to FTE. Well that u shaped collar is not going to fit inside that part with the long slits on the sides. And yes it makes sense that the round silver part would lock into the end where you have it now. What does the other end of the cable look like? And are you 100% sure that is the correct replacement part? I do not think there is a correct way to get THAT part to work.

 

In the picture below :

Lifting the handle ‘A’, pulls the lever ‘B’, which in turn pulls the cable along the ‘O’ section in ‘C’.

The end of the cable, circled, attaches through ‘B’ and ‘O’.

Section ‘D’ should turn left and right, which tightens the cable for fine tuning.

If ‘D’ does turn, turn it, and observe what lever ‘B’ does, so as to understand.

In your bottom picture, a clip is required to clip around the groove in the shiny metal bit.

If you have no clip, a cable tie might work, or might not.

 

Thank you so much! The when you say that the circled part and B slide along O, how do I get them in there? In my first photo in the original post, they don’t fit down into there. Do I put the U shaped metal thing at the end of the cable around B and slide the Pin in from the side of O? If I do that, how does the pin stay in place?

 

My guess is that the pin is a rivet. You could put the pieces in place and use a longer bolt through it. That would let you see how it operates.

 

Should I keep trying to use this pin or just do what John Jamieson suggested and use a random long bolt from the outside?

The pin isn’t long enough if I put it through the side and I just don’t see a way of getting the pin inside the long rails.

 

Yes.

Use a bolt the same width as the pin, or marginally narrower.

Place a washer on either side of 'C'.

The nut cannot be tightened, so either use loctite thread locker on the bolt thread, or use a nut with a nylon insert.

This will keep the nut tight, but not tight enough to restrict the movement of 'B' along 'C'.

The ''incredibly professional'' drawing below illustrates :



With regard to the other end, the round shiny bit needs to be right up against 'C', and that will place the 'clip groove' into the inner side of 'C'.

The clip is a sort of bell shape with 2 legs.

I have no idea what they are called, but maybe you can get one at a hardware store. (Take the cable with you.)

 

I'm pretty sure this is what the retaining clip should look like.

Why does your truck have a hand lever instead a foot pedal?

 

I bet it is a Australian truck. I think they use a hand brake mounted on the under side of the dash. I think that it is just to the left of the keys/steering wheel bottom edge.


Check out this R/H drive steering box mount set up. You se the alternator, so you know what side of the truck this is on right?

 

Hi guys, thanks so much for your help. I got the handbrake in (for the most part, still need to tighten bolts and a few other things). I’ll update with photos tomorrow if y’all want. I do have one more question though.

There a little wire under this bolt


Here are photos of a little wire connected to one of the bolts that’s supposed to hold the handbrake up (I think). I unscrewed the bolt, removed the wire then reconnected it all up with the handbrake between the wire and bolt. I have no idea what this wire is. Do any of you guys? Was it a bad idea to connect it like this? Could I potentially get shocked?

and yes, it is an Australian truck.

 

Yes, that's it, thank you.

 

Chances are that wire is a ground wire. (Maybe follow it to see where it goes.)

In fact if it was a live wire, there would be obvious problems.

To find out for sure, connect a test light, or multimeter, to the '-' battery post, and the other wire to that bolt. Light should stay off, or volts should be zero.

Then connect to the '+' battery post and bolt. Light should come on, or volts should be 12+. (This is the result you want.)

Carry the battery into the cab if need be for the purpose of the test.

 

I see your drawings are as professional as mine !! LOL

The cable should go through a hole in the firewall, 'C' , and run underneath the cab (broken line 'B' in the picture below).

'A' looks like a D.I.Y. fitting, but looks to be less effective than your 'new' setup.

Make sure the cable sits at least 2.5 cms (1 inch) away from the cylinder head, and use clips to hold the cable firm against the chassis.



It looks like a hole 'C' is available.

The existing cable routing looks suspect !

 

X2 yes that wire under that bolt is probable a ground since it connected to the chassis. X3 follow it and see what it is connected to, I bet one side of a electrical component of some sort and has a hot wire coming out going to a power source like a fuse block or the battery.

Yes that T handle looks like a manual choke or.....it is a hand throttle if you have a PTO? Again follow the cable and see what is on the other end.

Make sure one you confirm that the wire under the bolt head it a ground that you (if needed) and after you get the 2 bolts in the E brake handle that you use the wire crimp collar as a washer (under the head of 1 of the bolts. Nut bolt washer the other side of the bracket.

As far as the rest of the Ebrake cable routing, look under the cab you should see a wire sheathed cable and trace it back to a possible split connector. Or start at the rear axle and follow it froward. Yes these are US vehicles and the cable comes out the cab on (our) dvr side or left (as setting in it side).

 

I went back to the truck to take some photos so here they are:

Here is the bolt, nut and washers I used to connect the brake and cable. I have yet to superglue the nut into place.





I think this is a manual choke? When I pull it, it closes the flaps on the carb.



i do have one problem though. I think I’m supposed to start a new thread for this, but here it is:
the truck now won’t start. Started the day before yesterday but now it cranks but doesn’t turn over. I thought it was because i was out of fuel, but I added some and it still doesn’t. Here are some photos/videos of what I suspect is wrong:


Here are some unconnected wires, I have no idea whether they are supposed to go together, but when I put them and the red cable to the left together and tried to start the truck, they sparked.
I have a video of me pumping the gas, but I looked down into the carb and didn’t see any fuel getting spritzed in, though the valve was opening. I will go back tomorrow and check if the spark plugs get wet when I try to start it.