I recently put new heads gaskets and a fresh set of e7te heads on my 89 302. I went to bolt the accessory brackets back up (ac,ps,alternator) and noticed some of the bolts for the accessory brackets are way to small to screw in the head.

I see I can buy threaded inserts to stick in the thermactor holes so my bolts will screw in for the accessory brackets. But I'm wondering if these e7te heads can go on backwards?

And I think (I'm not sure I haven't checked yet) the threaded inserts are in the back of the head now where my smog pump tube connects🤟...what is the worst that can happen?
​​​​​Truck has no emissions and is running no kittycats😸


1989 f250 302

 

I guess 5/8 11 to a 7/16 14 thermactor hole reducer is what's needed for the accessory brackets to bolt into the head. As I was trying to screw a 7/16 bolt in a 5/8 hole . Never new about this one.

Any ill effects on not running the smog pump system on these trucks? I'd like to rip it out entirely. Thanks everyone

 

So when I built my engine I was looking at a few aftermarket heads. the et7's being one of them. A lot of aftermarket heads require a v-band belt set up of full deleting of certain things like ac or the smog pump. I ended up just porting the stock heads but using the aftermarket heads are definitely possible. I would say first see if one side of the heads has a very large bolt hole (I think 3/4), if they do and it is on the front yes they are on backwards. The other way to tell is if those heads can use the stock valve covers or stock style one then the shorter (front to back) seal line should be closest too the intake. Theoretically you physically couldn't put the heads on backwards just on different sides. As far as the smog pump you should fully delete the whole egr system. Many people will say that "your truck will run like ****" it won't. you'll have more power and a cleaner pull especially with those performance heads. pumping out exhaust will do nothing for you. As far as actually deleting the system that's where things are fun. If you have an efi engine then step one is get rid of the vacuum harness. this comes with some problems though. You will need to still hook up some key things like the fuel regulator and the soup can. next if you have those huge bolt holes in the heads then find a bolt that fits and is a grade 8. cover that in sealant. with those things sealed next delete the bypass tube (behind the engine) then get a nbt plug/cap to put on the intake where the egr valve connects (or on the manifold on some years) with all that done the pump is next. you really have three options: 1- delete pump and run with a shorter belt. be warned finding the right belt can be difficult. 2- buying a smog replacement bracket and a specific sized pulley. youtube egr delete you'll find it. 3- take apart the pump and strip everything out of it leaving only the body the pulley and the bearing. My recommendation is consider selling those heads and working on the stock ones. the stock heads will make life a lot easier and unless your going ***** to the wall they can support a good amount of horse power. If you dont mind doing the geometry to get a vband setup keep em and do that. Mine with ported heads, a light cam, mustang rods, forged pistons, king bearings/ high compression rings, and heavy valve springs and larger valves is puttin out 380.

 

Pull the heads and flip them side to side. It will make your life easier.
I didn't read anything about performance heads or anything so pretty much nothing the other guy said will apply here.