Security Chain for Trailer?
While the trailer and truck are parked, I was thinking of using this security chain and lock. Anyone have any first-hand knowledge of these?
I plan on running the chain through the tongue of the trailer where it's welded together and then run the other end of the chain through the hammer lock on the back of the truck.
From the videos Ive seen, bolt cutters are useless against this chain and lock, but obviously a angle grinder will work after a few minutes.
They are expensive, but it does come with peace of mind.
Theres plenty of YouTube videos showing how strong this chain is.
CHAIN https://www.uscargocontrol.com/produ...security-chain
LOCK https://www.uscargocontrol.com/produ...security-chain
I'd also consider some sort of tracking mechanism in the trailer such as an air tag or something GPS enabled if the cargo is really expensive and something you'd really want to recover.
I also store our car club enclosed trailer and it had a lock that fits up inside the ball.
I am also going to ask the club to get a lock for the latch.
This way they would have to deal with the latch lock and the lock up inside the ball and I dont see an easy way to remove this.
If you have dual axle / wheel they make wheel locks that fit between the 2 wheels, jambs them together and then locks in place.
For a single wheel maybe something like a boot they put on cars with over due parking tickets.
But sorry to say if they want it bad enough they will take it.
In that case a tracker is the way to go.
Dave ----
Add a wheel lock to make it even more noisy and difficult: https://www.provenlocks.com/collections/wheel-locks
Don't forget - rendering the chains useless as well is essential for stopping a run and done thief.
Once parked I'll throw on a couple lockable wheel chocks to slow the thief down or go to the next easier trailer.
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Bob
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When hitched:
- Lock the coupler to the ball
- Lock the ball-mount to the receiver with a locking hitch pin
- Lock the safety chains to the receiver (now even if they bring the big wrench and remove the ball from the ball mount, it's still locked to the tow vehicle)
- Park such that the trailer is not easily removed where possible, or at least more difficult to remove
When unhitched:
- Install a ball lock on the coupler
- Lock the coupler to the ball lock
- Lower the tongue a bunch, put down the rear loading legs, lock them in place with padlocks that have replaced the pins that came from the factory, raise the tongue more than I dropped it
- Lock the safety chains to the tongue jack handle so it can't turn (combined with the previous step, this thing is a real noisy nuisance to steal now)
- Park such that the trailer is not easily removed where possible, or at least more difficult to remove
- In some cases run a concealed chain from a structural part of the trailer to a tree etc.
I agree: In the end, if they want it bad enough they'll do whatever it takes to steal it. My goal is to make it so that the juice is not worth the squeeze.
Since your buddy is building the trailer for you, maybe have him build rear "loading" legs for it, and use those like I use mine: making it a pain to steal. I seldom use them for loading.

Also, don't be afraid to use those bicycle cable locks that you just hand a padlock through. I keep a couple around for situations where other locking systems aren't easy such as U-Haul trailers and dollies, extra security on the normal stuff, locking detachable ramps, etc. If I have one available, and I'm parking at a hotel for the night with the flatbed above or other trailers, I'll often add one of these cable locks between the tow vehicle and trailer, just to make it a bigger pain for someone. These cables are usually more difficult to cut than a chain link.
Hoping that kind of makes sense. Putting it another way: I'd rather lock everything together etc., start driving, arrive at a hotel many hours later, back into a safe position, grab my suitcase and walk inside . . . than back into a safe position then go about locking and chaining everything, especially in bright yellow like a lot of those chocks are. Maybe it's just me, but I feel like doing all of that calls more attention to the whole thing than just parking and walking inside.
One suggestion: Make sure the safety chain is welded to the tongue, then when the trailer is parked, run the tongue jack all the way down (so that the tongue is way up high). Then lock the safety chain around the crank handle so that even if someone were to tow it, they'd have to deal with the tongue jack dragging on the ground or have a really really high hitch. Another way to make it enough of a spectacle that they just move on.















