Leaky Carb
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 204
Likes: 9
From: West Palm Beach
Leaky Carb
I have a leaky carb at the Dashpot diaphram on a '64 223 I6.
Mikes carbs sells a Diaphragm Cover Repair Plate to add to the assembly.
Wouldn't it be better to just replace the Carburetor Pump Diaphram?
Any hints or DIY links are greatly appreciated.
thanks,
rtc
Mikes carbs sells a Diaphragm Cover Repair Plate to add to the assembly.
Wouldn't it be better to just replace the Carburetor Pump Diaphram?
Any hints or DIY links are greatly appreciated.
thanks,
rtc
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,021
Likes: 1,569
From: Seattle
Unless the cover is warped, I'd replace the diaphragm first and see if the leak goes away. It should be a matter of removing the 4 screws, slip the old one out and the new one in matching orientation front to back and put the cover back on with the 4 screws. To keep from warping them I usually loosen and tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern doing a turn at a time. You can check the cover for warping by setting it on a piece of flat glass and checking around the edges with a feeler gauge.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 234
From: Southern California
What TA455HO Said is correct. I would just add, be aware of the spring under the diaphragm, and if the cover turns out to be not flat, you can take some 220 grit sandpaper and put it on the piece of glass and carefully sand the mating surface flat. First the corners will get shiny and the warp will be obvious. You dont have to sand it toll its shiny all around, just knock down the high spots where it has been overtightened.
this trick also works on water outlets and the like. If you use a figure 8 pattern when sanding it will help keeping it even.
this trick also works on water outlets and the like. If you use a figure 8 pattern when sanding it will help keeping it even.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 204
Likes: 9
From: West Palm Beach
Unless the cover is warped, I'd replace the diaphragm first and see if the leak goes away. It should be a matter of removing the 4 screws, slip the old one out and the new one in matching orientation front to back and put the cover back on with the 4 screws. To keep from warping them I usually loosen and tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern doing a turn at a time. You can check the cover for warping by setting it on a piece of flat glass and checking around the edges with a feeler gauge.
Great, thanks for the reply.
now for a dumb question, is a fix I can do with the carburetor left in place, or is it a job I need to pull it for service.
My thought was, the less I mess with the less the problems.
Thanks again.
I’m not much of a mechanic-just learning as I go along.
rtc
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,021
Likes: 1,569
From: Seattle
If the diaphragm cover is on the side that the valve cover is on, then it may be a bit tricky to get a decent screwdriver in there to both break loose the screws and tighten them back down properly. In the picture posted the 4 screws seem like the slots may be compromised some which can sometimes make it tough to break them loose without causing more damage. I'd probably look at replacing those screws if they don't look so good nowadays. I believe Mike's Carbs sells those as well. Make sure you use a screwdriver that fits those slots well or they just get torn up usually.
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