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Power steering line on driver's side rotted out and dumped the reservoir. Had to top off reservoir and drive to garage leaving a trail of power steering fluid behind me
Replaced lines and re-filled the system, and the steering was bound up. Managed to manually work the steering back and forth several times, but no joy,. Let it sit for a couple hours and tried again, this time when the truck started up, hydraulic assist was back.... took if for a short drive and hydraulic assist disappeared and manual steering was very difficult. Let it sit over night and once again, when I started the truck, power assist was back. Worked the steering back and forth several times and thought I was good to go. Went for a test drive and it dropped out again.
Possibly, but question - is the dipstick on the pump still reading full? Or has the level dropped? It's possible that because you had the entire system apart there's still air in the system. Did the pump spin freely before you put the serpentine belt back on?
Any time I have to disassemble a power steering system, it is always good to fill the pump, start the vehicle, check the level, add if necessary, then turn from lock to lock several times, letting it stay there for a couple seconds each time. Then check the level again and add fluid if needed, then repeat the lock to lock several times again. After a couple (usually just 2) repeats, the system should be full and the level should maintain, along with good steering assist. If it DOESN'T then there's a problem and I'd be looking for binding parts.
Possibly, but question - is the dipstick on the pump still reading full? Or has the level dropped? It's possible that because you had the entire system apart there's still air in the system. Did the pump spin freely before you put the serpentine belt back on?
Any time I have to disassemble a power steering system, it is always good to fill the pump, start the vehicle, check the level, add if necessary, then turn from lock to lock several times, letting it stay there for a couple seconds each time. Then check the level again and add fluid if needed, then repeat the lock to lock several times again. After a couple (usually just 2) repeats, the system should be full and the level should maintain, along with good steering assist. If it DOESN'T then there's a problem and I'd be looking for binding parts.
Thanks for the reply.... so far I just replaced lines, not pump. Topped off the reservoir... worked the wheel, topped off the reservoir again, fluid level seems to be holding. So I'm wondering if I burned up the pump driving it. The rotted line was still pissing fluid when I got to the garage, so the system wasn't totally empty, but it may have been pumping air.
You most likely have air trapped in the system...loosing that much fluid without a doubt got air to the pump. Jack up the front end so both wheels are off the ground. With the engine off, and key in accessory mode, turn the wheel lock to lock. If possible, have someone look at the reservoir to see if bubbles are present. Do it until no bubbles show up. Once air gets in the pump it will take a while to get out. Usually it is best to prime the pump by disconnecting the pressure line and filling it up via the reservoir until fluid comes out the pressure port. It will make bleeding a lot faster.
It's just gonna puke fluid out the reservoir if you try to crank the wheel with the engine off.
Unload the front wheels and slowly crank the wheel lock to lock with engine running. Turn it off a couple times -- especially at first -- to get an accurate dipstick reading. Do not crank too fast and don't hit the stops hard or stay on the stops (just encourages excess heat and foaming).
Don't be afraid to overfill a little but once finished use a turkey baster or extractor to pull it down to an appropriate dipstick reading.
The only time I've had assist and then no assist was air in the system, but it was on a '94 Caravan. BUT if the pump is making excessive noise even when fluid level is good it's likely toast.
It's just gonna puke fluid out the reservoir if you try to crank the wheel with the engine off.
Unload the front wheels and slowly crank the wheel lock to lock with engine running. Turn it off a couple times -- especially at first -- to get an accurate dipstick reading. Do not crank too fast and don't hit the stops hard or stay on the stops (just encourages excess heat and foaming).
Don't be afraid to overfill a little but once finished use a turkey baster or extractor to pull it down to an appropriate dipstick reading.
The only time I've had assist and then no assist was air in the system, but it was on a '94 Caravan. BUT if the pump is making excessive noise even when fluid level is good it's likely toast.
I'll bet you $500 it wont! Fluid will flow through the system when the wheel turns. I've bled my Ford SD system 2x like this, and all my other power steering systems! If you try bleeding with the engine on and you have trapped air, it will just foam up. Much more efficient to do this without the pump running and frothing up everything!