When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My van is running pretty well most of the time, but it is having a weird issue. On cold engine, it starts fine, runs great. When I stop and come back within maybe 1/2 hour or so, it sometimes has a hard start. Then it will randomly just die while driving. It is like it isn't getting gas, or maybe spark. I can goose it with some starter fluid and sometimes get it running again. Sometimes I can get it to start up fairly quickly by just restarting. I thought it was maybe the fuel pump, so I swapped it out for a low pressure electric fuel pump which works great, but the problem persists. Could the float be getting stuck in the carb? I changed out the coil and starter relay thinking maybe they would having something to do with it, but problem persists. It really only seems to have the problem on a hot engine. Let me know your ideas on what to check. Thanks.
when it stalls, remove air filter and work throttle while looking down carb.
my bet is there will be no fuel coming from the squirter due to vapor lock.
when it stalls, remove air filter and work throttle while looking down carb.
my bet is there will be no fuel coming from the squirter due to vapor lock.
If it’s pumping gas after checking as recommended above, then check all of your distributor wiring.
I just went through the same thing, exactly. Had leave it in a parking lot one night. Ran like new the next day.
The only original piece left was the distributor. When replacing the distributor I discovered a frayed and loose wire that was very likely the culprit.
I went ahead and replaced the distributor, since I already had the new one in hand and the old one out, and it runs like a top again.
I bet a new wire from distributor to coil would have done the same thing.
Coils are also prone to fail when hot. If the wiring looks good check the coil next.
I once had a car that ran perfect, for 30 minutes, then died. Let it cool down and it ran perfect again. Turned out to be the coil.
i was going to suggest the overheating coil too, but he said he already changed it.
i bet i changed over 100 coils for the same thing. run great for 20-30 minutes than like crap with weak spark, or just shut off with no spark
Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I did replace the coil, but it is acting the same. I went on a half hour drive yesterday evening. Ran great. The temp was about 1/4 of the way up, so, nice and cool. I have some uphill getting back to my house which causes a bit more stress on the engine and it will heat up a bit because I have to stay in a lower gear and rev higher. The temp needle went to almost half way and things started acting up again. I made it home, but it is just so weird. Could there be something in the carburetor that clicks into place at higher temps and causes these kinds of issues? At this point I am basically throwing money at it replacing components here and there to see if any of them fixes the issue. I have a new carburetor coming next week, so we'll see if that helps. Fingers crossed!
LOL, I'm in the middle of your issue right now. it was acting up a 2 weeks ago, and also the tach was getting jumpy, so I guessed Condenser and swapped it out. It immediately fixed the skip, the dying and the tach smoothed right out. About a week later, last friday it started the same routine on the way home from work. I haven't had a chance to check it out since, but I'm hoping to attack it tomorrow. If you're interested I'll let you know how I make out, just message me after the weekend.
I'm definitely interested in what you find out. I have had similar moments of perceived triumph only to have the issue come back again. I'll update here after I swap out my carburetor next week (arriving Monday). It seems if I really work the engine and heat it up, I can get it to crap out on me. It definitely has something to do with heat.
I'm definitely interested in what you find out. I have had similar moments of perceived triumph only to have the issue come back again. I'll update here after I swap out my carburetor next week (arriving Monday). It seems if I really work the engine and heat it up, I can get it to crap out on me. It definitely has something to do with heat.
The Econolines have a unique issue where they get extremely hot under the hood. I read that gasoline can boil at just over 100 degrees in the right conditions, so you may be having a vapor lock problem. I did 2 things to mine to avoid that issue, I redesigned and built a new front bumper, and I added a pair of 7" fans in the engine compartment and I added a temp sensor and gauge under the hood to monitor it. That seems to have all but eliminated the under hood heat issue. My cab used to smell like gas shortly after I parked it every time, and now I've only had a hint of that once or twice. I'll be getting to my ignition issue this morning, I'll let you know how I make out, If I don't post, message me. I tend to forget, byproduct of old age.
I live in Florida where it’s really hot most of the time. The truck didn’t have a belly pan when I got it. Since I added a belly pan, overheating is no longer an issue. I have a manually operated electric fan. No mechanical fan. I rarely turn on the electric fan. Only in stop and go traffic.
When I start it for the first time of the day it starts like fuel injection. After it’s warmed up it’s hard to start sometimes, but always starts. Hit the key and lots of gas, once the cool gas hits the carb it’ll start.
I discovered that if I turn on the electric fan when I shut it off, and let it run for 30 seconds, restarting when hot is no problem.
my .02, your mileage may vary, void where prohibited, enter as often as you would like.
The plan is to run the fans off an attick thermostat, set to come on at about 125 and off around 90, but I seem to have misplaced the thermostat I bought so at the moment it just runs off a toggle switch, but with the Front bumper mod I seldom turn it on.
A few thoughts from someone who has wrangled a '64 E-100 some 40 years now: Test the thermostat to see when, if, and how far it opens when you throw it into a pan of boiling water. (Make sure She doesn't catch you with your old truck parts in the kitchen.) The thermostats can be tough to find.
Also: never nevernevernever discount the possibility of even a tiny vacuum leak. Mine was undetectable with a vacuum gauge, but a new PCV hose (perhaps not present on the '63) fixed the problem. I finally found it by spraying every possible leakage location with Walmart cheap carb cleaner to see where it affected the idling speed.
And: points and condensers are now about as expensive as a breakerless electronic module, so you might consider that. I did have difficulty adapting my apparently weird distributor to accommodate the wires, though. And make sure you're using the manual choke correctly.
Some updates, I did the Pertronix swap and immediately solved all the ignition issues including the tach. It ran flawlessly for a week and a half, then picked up a fuel issue, (acted like it was running out of gas), Milked it home playing with the choke and throttle and when I got it to my driveway I tried adjusting the idle mixture and got nothing. SO I pulled the float bowl off and it looks like the seals in the carb are being eaten by our mandatory supply of E15. And since I haven't been all that happy with the Daytona CHV I bought for this thing last year, I did a little more research and talked to a few people and decided to try a 350 cfm Holley 2 bbl. I order one from O'Riellys and an adapter from Summit. The Carb. showed up yesterday and the adapter is suppose to be here tomorrow, I'll work on that this weekend. And while I'm under there I'll see if I can rig up a throttle cable as well. The linkage is pretty warn out and it sticks making it lousy to drive. And the SAGA continues.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.