I wonder if the stand valve is open or something. There's a plug fitting on each cylinder head on the opposite end of the fuel rail passage from where the steel lines go in. Judging from what you wrote, I would remove one of those plugs and see if fuel comes out when you turn the ignition on and the fuel pump starts to run. It should come out as a sustantial fuel flow, not just a trickle.

 

that plug about 1 inch round that uses a allen wrench to remove it on the back of the motor near the fire wall?
I dont think my HPOP is allowing the fuel to open the injectors to fire.

 

No, not that big end cap plug. Examine your cylinder heads, looking at where there steel fuel lines go into the end of the top of the cylinder head. Follow the ridge along the top, next to where the valve cover is. You will find an NPT plug at the opposite end of the cylinder head that the factory installed to cap off the far end of the fuel rail passage that feeds the injectors their fuel. Remove whichever one is easier to get at. Once that is done, go cycle the ignition key and make sure you hear the fuel pump running. If the fuel supply is ok, there will be a river of fuel running down.

 

ITS RUNNING! Not really well but she is alive. A friend suggested I use starting fluid, so i disconnected the glow plugs, gave her a shot of liquid Harley and she fired right off and ran on her own. I never thought i would get air in the lines from removing the fuel bowl, but of course I did. I checked for leaks and did not see any. so, the leak is fixed. I let it idle, and it was smoking white smoke out the tailpipe. it seemed like a lot of blowby on top of the engine as well as the oil and fuel burning off the warm motor. I just let it idle for about 20 minutes, after that i checked the gage and it was up in the middle of the gage (normal operating temp on my other trucks) I revved it up and it was sluggish and seemed loaded up. I revved it again it smoked more and ran a little better. I went to rev it and it shut off.
So im back where i started, without the massive oil leak.

Why would my truck shut off when it gets to operating temperature?
I have two other trucks with the same year make and model. Should i remove the coil on a good truck and try it on the HPOP on the truck that is shutting off? Any thoughts? thanks for everything

 

No brainer to try IPR coil from working vehicle.
I would swap whole IPR to rule it out.

 

Please refer to post #2 from 30 August...

In post #9 you said you tried cool water on the ICP, which is NOT the IPR and what I pointed out in post #10 before you went down the rabbit hole.

Have a nice weekend!

 

I agree with the IPR talk. If you had FORScan you could watch some values and get a better idea of what the PCM is seeing.

But we also just saw a fella solve a poor running issue that was due to his oil temp pressure sensor over on this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20975751

I would just keep this in mind as a possibility as well. Again, FORScan could help confirm this sensor’s value. Wonder what would happen if you just disconnected the engine oil temp sensor?

But don’t let this distract you from the IPR.

>>Edited above since I made an error on which sensor he replaced in the other thread. We’ve seen temp sensors cause issues before but in his case it was the pressure sensor.

 

sous and racin your thoughts will be used today. when i said i poured water on the ipr, i meant the ipc. the terminology is new to me. This morning i have someone coming with a scan tool. I will try to get everything the scan tool says and report back here. I might try to unplug the temp sensor and take it for a ride. Im really thinking about swapping out the whole ipc. the truck that i was going to pull it from has a leaking drain valve and i need to reseal it anyway. while the bowl is out i can pull the icp and if it works in the new truck i can put a new one in the old truck. Thanks guys, i feel like im on the right track headed in the right direction.

 

Sir, it seems you have the terminology backwards but it sounds like you’re looking at the right part (IPR) and calling it by the wrong name (ICP). Here’s a photo I pulled from the tech folder. This should help clear things up.

 

What oil are you running? Have you changed it recently, checked the level, etc.? Oil filter good quality? (e.g. Wix, Motorcraft, NAPA, Baldwin, Carquest BLUE)

How's the air filter? Is there any dust or dirt on the clean side of the air intake tube indicating filter/airbox failure?

Can you check alternator voltage with a multimeter while it's running before it shuts off?

Does/did the heater work in the past? Does your upper radiator hose get hot?

If swapping the IPR doesn't work...

You need an adapter and computer, take a few hours to get set up on FORScan and watch the following values when cranking and running until it shuts off. Save the log file of the live data and upload here. Lots of info on FORScan in the tech folder.

VPWR (system voltage)
VREF (reference voltage, I don't remember the acronym)
RPM
ICP, psi (shows you pressure reported to the PCM by the ICP)
​​​IPR % (shows you how the computer is regulating the HPO as it leaves the pump going to the rails)
EOT, °F (the only engine temp sensor the PCM uses)
MAP, psi
BAROV, psi
EBP, psi (this is a commonly problematic sensor that could indicate an issue. I also like to watch the voltage of this one as a separate PID to see if it's shorting out and killing the PCM)
IAT, °F

 

Funny enough I'm currently in the same boat with my E-350. starts running rough and shuts off as is coming to operating temperature. I suspect a high pressure leak somewhere. I haven't made the time to try to diagnose my issue, but I will start tackling it sometime next week. I did replace my IPR as it was the originall with well over 350k miles. It ran much better, the old it would get commanded 65% while trying to crank but it would never start. Now it runs takes a few secs of cranking and it starts but it dies while getting to operating temp. It also got rid of my p1211 but am stuck with a p1212 and another icp related code, probably bad ground or short somewhere or sensor took a dump, I will make a post incase it helps somebody else in the future when I come around to fix it.

 

I havent had any luck or time to work on it. I had a friend over who pointed out that it has excessive blowby. I have been so caught up in getting it to run i didnt even notice the blowby. That really took the wind out of my sails.
follow up for matt, oil lvel is good dont know what brand.
air cleaner looks new.
i can check the voltage (and will) before it stalls.
I can and will check the upper hose for temperature.
Its raining today, if it stops ill get right on it.
thanks again to everybody.

 

Are you planning to swap the IPR?

Excessive blowby means actual pressure from the oil fill cap.
Normail oil vapor is often thought as a blowby.

 

So, are you saying you haven't done an oil change yet? We may have failed you by not telling you to do that first. Obviously you had a leak that needed to be fixed, but new oil is very important. If it's old enough it will be so thin it can sneak past o-rings that are otherwise good. Oil in these beasts is used so heavily as hydraulic fluid that even synthetics I change every 3-5k miles.

15W40 Rotella T4 is pretty affordable and will do the trick. Still get a good quality oil filter, don't get FRAM or STP

When I asked about the air cleaner I'm talking about looking down the tube towards the turbo, the tube after the air filter. If it's dusty downstream of the air filter you need to do some investigating to see where it's leaking unfiltered air and need to consider some other scary things.

 

But before you do any of that try to get FORScan set up and running. I really think it will be helpful to see the data