so, a question about points
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2023
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From: denver
so, a question about points
after rebuilding the carb on my 1966 f100 with a bone stock 352, i wanted it run at its optimum. so, i bought an engine analyzer with dwell meter and the likes, along with a vacuum guage to help with that quest. i started by using a feeler guage on the points. i set them to .017 as spec'd. but, i did a rethink on it and figured i'd use the dwell meter to make it a bit more accurate. i hooked up the dwell meter correctly according to instructions (the instructions said that some manufacturers require the vacuum advance be disconnected and plugged. i did this).
my wife cranked over the motor and i set the points in the range of 27 - 32 degrees. i had read this in an older thread, so i used this value.
my question is this: out of curiosity, i slipped a .017 feeler guage between the points. they were set a bit tighter than the .017 because the feeler guage dragged quite a bit. should i rely on the dwell meter - or the feeler guage? my guess is that the dwell meter is a more accurate way of setting the points.
also, when i set the analyzer to "points" it falls on the "bad" zone. the instructions read that it could be a bad ground on the distributor, bad distributor pigtail and a few other things. i checked everything, tightened up the ground wire, retested, and still came up with "bad" points. maybe i'll just replace the points even tho they seem to be pretty new.
my wife cranked over the motor and i set the points in the range of 27 - 32 degrees. i had read this in an older thread, so i used this value.
my question is this: out of curiosity, i slipped a .017 feeler guage between the points. they were set a bit tighter than the .017 because the feeler guage dragged quite a bit. should i rely on the dwell meter - or the feeler guage? my guess is that the dwell meter is a more accurate way of setting the points.
also, when i set the analyzer to "points" it falls on the "bad" zone. the instructions read that it could be a bad ground on the distributor, bad distributor pigtail and a few other things. i checked everything, tightened up the ground wire, retested, and still came up with "bad" points. maybe i'll just replace the points even tho they seem to be pretty new.
See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
I am very happy with not having to adjust points using a Pertronix unit. Not one problem, in two trucks, over 25 years. But I still keep an extra one in the toolbox I always carry.
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You can vary on the points gap a little--it depends on how much wear there is in the distributor, how hot the spark is and few of the other factors that can make an engine fire with a touch of the key (my old 289) vs. needing to spin a few seconds (my rebuilt 289)
If you plan to rev the wee out of it, tighten the gap ever so slightly. (no wait, you're not going to do that with a 352....are you?)
If you plan to rev the wee out of it, tighten the gap ever so slightly. (no wait, you're not going to do that with a 352....are you?)
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2023
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From: denver
No bouncing off if the rev limiter with the 352. It's lived a creampuff life so far, and I won't end it like that
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Kenner,La.
Dwell setting
Be sure that the coil wire is grounded when spinning the engine to set the dwell. I always do it with the spark plugs out.
After the dwell is set leave the feeler gauge in the tool box. The clearance will always feel too tight so leave it alone. I also like the Petronics conversion.
I then set the timing with the spark plugs on the wires and laying on top of the engine. The reason why I started doing it that way is I had a Stern Drive shop, this way I did not have to keep climbing in and out the boat to turn the water for the flush out. It is also a safe way to set the timing since the engine is not running and the centrifugal and vacuum advance do not cause an incorrect reading.
After the dwell is set leave the feeler gauge in the tool box. The clearance will always feel too tight so leave it alone. I also like the Petronics conversion.
I then set the timing with the spark plugs on the wires and laying on top of the engine. The reason why I started doing it that way is I had a Stern Drive shop, this way I did not have to keep climbing in and out the boat to turn the water for the flush out. It is also a safe way to set the timing since the engine is not running and the centrifugal and vacuum advance do not cause an incorrect reading.
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Cargo Master
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Points will only give you the gap for that 1 lobe, and whatever slack is in the dist. bearings at the time. The dwell gives you an average of all cylinders. So the dwell would be your preferred method. And I've been running points for the 55 years I've been driving. No regrets.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2023
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From: denver
That answers it. I wondered what would take precedent....dwell or gap. I did set the dwell, but I'm not sure the coil wire was grounded the whole time.
gonna do a repeat. Thank you for all of the replies. This is awesome, fellas!
gonna do a repeat. Thank you for all of the replies. This is awesome, fellas!
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
That was before all the point replacement kits came out back in the 80's now being Pertronix is the go to that is the way I would go and never need to replace points again.
Dave ----
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