When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Long story short I have moved on from the 1990 E150 351w EFI to a 1985 F150 302 (carb) because parking in the city with a van is a nightmare. I removed damn near everything associated with the vac system on the van save for the EGR valve and possibly a few other bits... It's been several years and I can't remember. I have also only messed with EFI systems so carbs are new to me. I'm starting to dig through this thing and yeah... this stuff has got to go. The only problem is that on the surface it seems pretty different from the last one I messed with.
Reason for removing...
Here is the diagram
Before removing the Smog pump
IIRC the EGR on the 351w just ran into the front of the exhaust (when finished) whereas this one just has it running to the back of the heads and to the cats where you can see it's rusted to hell. Will I be doing the same thing I did with the 351 and running the EGR to the front of the exhaust where that collapsible hose thing is coming out (what even is that)? Also, I will not be using the CC system and I think I remember some vac hoses for that. I'm about to start working on getting the bolts out of the crossover tube but need guidance on what vac lines should stay to not throw any codes. Any pointers here on what to attach where would help tremendously. Thanks for y'alls time!
Running to the back of the heads is not the EGR. That is the AIR system. The air pump pumps air to the back of the heads where it's distributed through the head and into the exhaust system. If you want to get rid of it, the best thing to do is take the bolts off and pull it out. Take the thick blocks on each side and cut the pipes off and weld them shut. Then bolt them individually back on the head to plug the hole in the head. If you do not plug the hole you will have a exhaust leak.
I will definitely be dropping some bolts back into those holes to seal them up. Got the crossover tube out and that thing was ROUGH, had a massive hole in it with scorch marks.
So THAT's where the EGR is, a totally different location on the 351 but thanks for pointing it out.
UPDATE: The green line off the EGR was melted in half and several of the vac lines are not even plugged in. What's the minimum I should be running for this system?
You can take the EGR vacuum lines off and try it. See if you have any pinging problems. Just plug all these lines at their source so they do not suck any air.
1. Not sure what position the INT HCV and EXH HCV are stuck in or what should be done with them.
2. Not sure what to do about the Auto Choke. The ports on the exhaust are absolute crap as you can see.
3. Should I remove the coffee can or plug it into one of those capped-off mains with the same check valve on the dead-end side?
4. Should I keep the V CB V (coming off the center of the carb) leading to the charcoal canister that leads to the fuel tank?
5. Repair the EGR hose? One of the (black) hoses coming off the solenoids is a dead-end. If so should I remove all of the solenoids (since they are all connected) as well as the dashpot and cap the EGR?
6. I see mention of a vac line that should be going to the trans, but I am finding conflicting info on whether it has one or not. (AOD)
And of course, if you see anything blatantly wrong... any help is much appreciated! THANKS!!!
1. Not sure what position the INT HCV and EXH HCV are stuck in or what should be done with them. Are you going to drive this in the winter? Where do you live? That will determine if you need to keep some of the heat assist items.
2. Not sure what to do about the Auto Choke. The ports on the exhaust are absolute crap as you can see. You can buy a manual choke conversion kit on Amazon. I just put one on my Bronco.
3. Should I remove the coffee can or plug it into one of those capped-off mains with the same check valve on the dead-end side? Is this the coffee can related to the A/C vacuum line? If so, you need to keep it and it's vacuum lines. If you don't, then when pulling a hill your heater will go to defrost. When you get back on level ground it will go back to the floor if you have it set there. If you have cruise control you might have another coffee can also.
4. Should I keep the V CB V (coming off the center of the carb) leading to the charcoal canister that leads to the fuel tank? I wouldn't. Plug the large line on top of the carb. Take the rest of it out. You should be left with the charcoal canister and a small line running from it down the frame rail to the fuel tank.
5. Repair the EGR hose? One of the (black) hoses coming off the solenoids is a dead-end. If so should I remove all of the solenoids (since they are all connected) as well as the dashpot and cap the EGR? I would remove all that. Take the EGR valve off and put a metal block off plate underneath the valve to block the ports and bolt the EGR valve back on. You can make this plate out of some thin metal you have laying around.
6. I see mention of a vac line that should be going to the trans, but I am finding conflicting info on whether it has one or not. (AOD) The AOD does not have a vacuum line for control, it has a cable going to the throttle on the carb. This is a very important cable, and the reason why you should keep the original carb and it's linkage, so the AOD linkage works correctly. If it gets out of adjustment you can have harsh late shifting or earl soft shifting. Very early soft shifting can ruin the transmission.
1. Live in NC so not terribly cold.
2. Nice, Looks like I have the 2150 carb (E5TE YA), Will the LMC one be good? https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...rsion-kit-ford
3. I do not believe it was connected to the A/C system, saw nothing to indicate a loose hose in that system, and seemed as though it went to the main vac. Thanks for the insight on how it will behave if it was supposed to be connected so I will not trash it just yet and see how it behaves. Also have CC but I'm cutting it out plus I see no other can connect to that.
4. Sounds good
5. So ill be leaving the EGR connected electrically just blocked off?
6. Thanks for that peace of mind.
Also one more thing... I do not need to worry about an idler pulley for my setup since the alternator is still hooked up right?
The EGR will not be connected at all. Just there to sandwich the solid gasket in place to block the holes.
Never heard of a idler pulley needed. Does your air pump run off a short belt from the alternator? If it does, just take the short belt off. You will have a empty groove on the alternator. Do not be tempted to run dual belts, sometimes the pulleys on the crank and waterpump are slightly different sizes.
Here is the vacuum routing for the A/C. You can see at the top of the diagram, the line from the tree on the firewall that goes to the intake vacuum, and then that goes to a tee that has a built in check valve. Then it branches to the vacuum storage can, and inside through the firewall to the control system. When you pull a hill and open the carb up, the vacuum on the engine drops. The check valve closes and the HVAC system uses the vacuum stored in the can to keep it going till the vacuum comes back.
Hey Dave, keep seeing you pop up in related threads but not directly answering another question I have. Working on getting the line that runs to the exhaust (after the first cat, the one first pictured that was rusted almost all the way through) plugged up. Did the same mod on the 351w (EFI) in the van but settled on a larger rubber cap that had to be replaced every few months. The idea was to get the front part of the exhaust off and take it to my buddy to just weld it shut so I don't have to worry about it any longer. My first exhaust job and I got it 99% dropped but stuck as of now on separating the slip joint. Fairly confident all get it separated tomorrow but just in case I bugger things up too much, I wondered if this would be a suitable replacement? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1070&jsn=1070
It says Fuel Injected on the description so that made me hesitant towards its compatibility. Would that be because an FI wouldn't have the EXH HCV between the manifold and pipe (making the driver's side a bit longer)? If I wanted to delete the HCV then would it fit? Thanks for your help!!!
Not sure what you are talking about. I can't tell in the picture. If it's the line that went to the air system, you can cut it off about 1 inch long down near the cat, smash it shut with some vise grips, and then fold it over like a toothpaste tube. That should seal it off.
Was just asking if the linked exhaust would fit. Never mind because I did what you said and got it sealed up nicely. Only problem now is the last bolt (driver-side exhaust flange) got messed up trying to put it back on and now I can't find a replacement. Tried the Dorman 03407 exhaust hardware kit, auto parts store said it fit but didn't have them, rock auto said they fit as well so got them on Amazon for faster shipping but it doesn't even come close to fitting. Where the hell can I find these bolts / stud?
Do you have a old nut? If you do, take it to the store and buy a piece of all-thread rod that fits the nut. Hacksaw the all-thread to the right length, and get some new nuts to fit. You can take two nuts and tighten them against each other on the all-thread piece you cut, and then take a wrench and install the all-thread. The install the flange and the nut with a lockwasher.
and several of the vac lines are not even plugged in. What's the minimum I should be running for this system?
