Warm engine knock '88 302
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 207
Likes: 21
From: West Tennessee
Warm engine knock '88 302
I recently picked up a 1988 f-150 4x4, 5 speed, 302 shows 122k . In the past PO has taken off the injection and replaced it with a Jegs manifold and Holly 4bl carb. Said it leaked oil badly and probably needs a rebuild.
So I want To check it out because I don't take the word of a seller as gospel.
Got it running after an oil change that I drained a FULL 3 GALLONS of oil from the crankcase and cleaned up the plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Runs Great But ...
After it gets to full operating temperature a knocking can be heard that does increase with RPMs. I hear nothing at startup and running cold. If I had a bad rod bearing shouldn't I hear it more at startup than warm ?
I'm thinking put a can of STP in and see what that does. If it is a rod bearing I need a regrind now and if I run it with the STP and determine it's a rod bearing ... I'll still need a regrind.
Thoughts and input appreciated
Another option is buy a flywheel and clutch for my 300 4.9 and put that in 🤔
So I want To check it out because I don't take the word of a seller as gospel.
Got it running after an oil change that I drained a FULL 3 GALLONS of oil from the crankcase and cleaned up the plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Runs Great But ...
After it gets to full operating temperature a knocking can be heard that does increase with RPMs. I hear nothing at startup and running cold. If I had a bad rod bearing shouldn't I hear it more at startup than warm ?
I'm thinking put a can of STP in and see what that does. If it is a rod bearing I need a regrind now and if I run it with the STP and determine it's a rod bearing ... I'll still need a regrind.
Thoughts and input appreciated
Another option is buy a flywheel and clutch for my 300 4.9 and put that in 🤔
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 207
Likes: 21
From: West Tennessee
Thank You
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 400
Likes: 57
From: Saskatchewan
If the knock, or sound does not change with RPM, then that would seem to not be related to anything within the engine, no? The rotating assembly changes speed, so I'd think a rod bearing noise would speed up and slow down with RPM. What could generate constant repeating sound that does change with RPM under the hood?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 207
Likes: 21
From: West Tennessee
If the knock, or sound does not change with RPM, then that would seem to not be related to anything within the engine, no? The rotating assembly changes speed, so I'd think a rod bearing noise would speed up and slow down with RPM. What could generate constant repeating sound that does change with RPM under the hood?
Tomorrow I will warm it up and then turn it off and remove the serpentine belt to stop all other movement. Power Steering pump, idlers and tension, alternator, water pump ... Can't remember if the air pump is still there ? Very helpful comment to get me thinking ... Thanks
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 655
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From: New Dominion, PE
I have an 03 land rover with the 4.6L V8. It would start ticking like crazy after warming it up. When temps got to around 175 deg...tick-tick-tick. My good friend suggested
trying rislone treatment to free up sticking lifters. Sure enough...added a pint of it, ran it for a day and bada-bing...no more tick-tick-tick.
trying rislone treatment to free up sticking lifters. Sure enough...added a pint of it, ran it for a day and bada-bing...no more tick-tick-tick.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 207
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From: West Tennessee
Now that it's Torn down
So now that all the other things on the burners are done I have pulled the engine and it's now apart.
Nothing major has shown up ... There's quite a bit of sign that the oil was never changed as the engine is very dirty and the crankshaft is scored a bit. All the bearings are showing copper colors and had to play with the lifters to get past the sludge in the oil passage to get them out. Hardly any ridge in the cylinder walls and no broken rings. The wrist pins seem to be good and no other abnormal wear anywhere.
I haven't seen anything that I would consider causing the knock but I haven't done any measurements for clearance. Thinking I will get the crank either polished or turned and hot tank the block because it is so dirty.
Anything else anyone wants to suggest I'm listening ...
Nothing major has shown up ... There's quite a bit of sign that the oil was never changed as the engine is very dirty and the crankshaft is scored a bit. All the bearings are showing copper colors and had to play with the lifters to get past the sludge in the oil passage to get them out. Hardly any ridge in the cylinder walls and no broken rings. The wrist pins seem to be good and no other abnormal wear anywhere.
I haven't seen anything that I would consider causing the knock but I haven't done any measurements for clearance. Thinking I will get the crank either polished or turned and hot tank the block because it is so dirty.
Anything else anyone wants to suggest I'm listening ...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: South Dakota
A lot of things to consider, it just depends on how good a job you want. I assume you want to do what work you can yourself. Hopefully you have a good machine shop near you that will work with you and measure stuff and do what machine work you need done and want to do. I'm sure you will have to have the crankshaft turned atleast .010 beings it is scored. You will probably want to just replace the pistons beings the ring lands will be worn and it will be just as cheap as repairing the ring lands. You may want to just bore the block .030 and have perfectly round holes and won't have to remove the ring land tops. Cost maybe an extra $150 estimate. Of course then you would need the correct size pistons.
Don't forget about the camshaft bearings. A new camshaft and valve lifters. Again it depends on how good a job you want and how much you want to spend. Then there is grinding the valves if you choose.
Don't forget about the camshaft bearings. A new camshaft and valve lifters. Again it depends on how good a job you want and how much you want to spend. Then there is grinding the valves if you choose.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 207
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From: West Tennessee
Update
Due to the Arctic cold here and everywhere in the country I'm behind a bit.
But I started cleanup and found a chunk of metal in the oil pump screen. Found a cam bearing had de-laminated itself so that's another thing. Taking the Block and crankshaft and camshaft to the machine shop tomorrow ... Hopefully the camshaft can be reusable but ... Has anyone done a replacement cam that they could suggest. Camshaft Degrees and Lift and Duration are like a foreign language to me. It's an 88 block with the double valve relief on the pistons. I'm just looking for something dependable but I occasionally haul loads of hay and a trailer. I'll likely go stock unless ...
But I started cleanup and found a chunk of metal in the oil pump screen. Found a cam bearing had de-laminated itself so that's another thing. Taking the Block and crankshaft and camshaft to the machine shop tomorrow ... Hopefully the camshaft can be reusable but ... Has anyone done a replacement cam that they could suggest. Camshaft Degrees and Lift and Duration are like a foreign language to me. It's an 88 block with the double valve relief on the pistons. I'm just looking for something dependable but I occasionally haul loads of hay and a trailer. I'll likely go stock unless ...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 207
Likes: 21
From: West Tennessee
Nope ... Based upon what I found ... I think it's a language that the engine is talking ... Saying STOP before something horrible happens. I listened and I believe that it probably wouldn't have last only a couple hundred miles before throwing a rod or spinning a main bearing ...
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rustee90-150
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