I have a 2009 6.4, new motor along with turbos 30k ago, I'm having a boosting issue, slow building and wont go over 15-20psi. It runs perfect when it's under operating temps but will all of sudden loose power, I can shut it off and turn it on and it'll be fine for a minute if that then return to no boost, new motorcraft ebp sensor and pigtail, map and maf reading normal and I'm stumped, actuator cycles normal when keyed on.

 

Air filter clean? What type?

CAC boots revisited to make sure their on and snug? Details about truck, is it Deleted?

Denny

 

Denny- yessir filter is clean, brand new stock filter.

all boots are tight and no exhaust leaks
deleted and tuned, oem turbos, straight pipe

-Justin

 

It ran for 30K correct. Runs good, Turbo's are suspect to me. Take the tubes off the turbos and feel if you have a rag or alot of play in the intake veins. Something is amiss. You can't hear shredding? New filter! No rag in the intake?


Denny

 

Yes, 30k miles on motor and turbos. Runs really good when it has boost lol. No shredding, I'll take tubes off and inspect turbos and veins first thing in am. The part where I can throw in in neutral, restart it, and it'll be fine for a few miles really throws me, is actuator also a suspect in this case?

-Justin

 

If the tubes are clear and the boots are tight, next time it has an event, pop the hood while leaving it run and have someone goose it to see if the actuator is on a vacation.

Genny

 

I did exactly that, when it freaked out, looked at the actuator and free revving it and brake boosting a little it barley moves. Don't seem like it's moving enough but still does a tad. After restarting it and it starts running correct actuator moves as it should when brake boosting. Would baro sensor have any say with this issue? Not sure how they are supposed to read but on my live data it don't move from 29.

 

Your on track to my thoughts. I would pull the MAP sensor on top of the manifold and examine and clean it. Very quick and easy job.


Check this out. BTW is this truck deleted and is the EGR still in place?


Denny

 

I did exactly as directed, and my sensors looked brand new compared to that guys, hardly anything to clean off of them. No change after cleaning sensors.
Truck is fully deleted and studded, nothing egr wise is left on truck.

Justin

UPDATE: scanned again and getting code- P006B MAP - Barometric Pressure Correlation

 

Allright,

Now were clearing a path. I would suggest carefully taking off the map plug harness at the manifold. Make sure it's surgical and do the same for the wiring going back all the way.

Do you have a multimeter?

Denny

Is this the sensor off the old engine, or did it come with the family. If it's not a OEM ford Fomoco sensor. Renew it with such.

 

I do have a multimeter yes. And no it's a new sensor, not sure the brand but I'll get new anyway.
Justin

 

I have a minute and I try to help because I know what your going thru.

If my post above doesn't help, this is the list of common boost problems that I've seen. Open up your intake side of the Turbo. Stick anything but your finger into it and give it a spin. You should have mild resistance. Wiggle it four ways for play. If it checks out, spray your intake boot after you sand it with 120 grit with permatex copper gasket seal and wait for it to settle, reboot.

Work your way all the way thru the boots on the CAC both passenger and drivers side. Do the same. This will take that off the shelf of a CAC leak. Check the tubes carefully, I've seen casting weeps.

Also: Very important will be to make certain your boot clamps aren't overcompressed. If the clamp rails are touching, the clamp is worthless. It will leak! Power tools are great but if your drinking a Beer or eating a sandwich, it happens.

I saId it before and I'll say it again, when you pull the CAC tubes when you do/if you do the turbo intake. Look for anything that resembles a rag. As you work forward and clean and sand your tubes, You want to see clean daylight. The reason that song is stuck in my head is because me/myself and every backyard or pro mechanic has done it. We keep things out of airways with plugs or rags. JS

Mind you; when you pull the MAP connection, examine the pin heights on the plug.

BTW, your EGR that's now gone plays a part in all of this. Since it's gone, do you have an EGR delete tune involved? If not, guess what.

Is the block off plate or any seal from the original suspect. It is exhaust driven. Keep in mind your turbo is driven by your exhaust output. If you have leaks, Your boost goes south in a hurry.

Truck loud?

Denny