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If the "undercoating" is Wool Wax or Fluid film, chances are high that rust was scared away, but where you need to really look is at the cab mounts. This is where I found the majority of rust issues on my Wisconsin based 2012. You can quickly tell if the truck will be a rust bucket by looking at all the cross members of the bed, and especially above the DPF where there is an insulation pad. This is where rusts starts to eat the bed. Look closely at the skin folds on the bottom of the doors, this is another place. Also where the pillars overlap the rocker. Any paint cracks or bubbles there means rust has started internally. You can also pull the carpeting at the firewall where the front mount is and look in there as rust starts inside at those locations.
If the "undercoating" is Wool Wax or Fluid film, chances are high that rust was scared away, but where you need to really look is at the cab mounts. This is where I found the majority of rust issues on my Wisconsin based 2012. You can quickly tell if the truck will be a rust bucket by looking at all the cross members of the bed, and especially above the DPF where there is an insulation pad. This is where rusts starts to eat the bed. Look closely at the skin folds on the bottom of the doors, this is another place. Also where the pillars overlap the rocker. Any paint cracks or bubbles there means rust has started internally. You can also pull the carpeting at the firewall where the front mount is and look in there as rust starts inside at those locations.
That's why my truck gets oiled at Carwell. They spray inside the rockers and inside of the bed... the oil must be keeping my body mounts in great shape because so far, they look solid... all the stuff you describe, is solid on my truck but only due to the Carwell oiling and I also take it through the carwash plus go to a drive in frequently also and spray it myself...
I mean, truthfully, like Troy said, if you could find a southern truck from Texas, Arizona or likewise, yeah it's a better option because they will be cleaner than say a truck from Utah or Colorado. With that said, you could still find a fairly clean truck from those states with winter and salt, but it does take effort and due diligence on the part of the owner in that area with cold winters to keep the truck that way, clean with minor rust if any, in a winter state like Utah or Colorado. More likely though, a clean truck from there will be the exception and not the rule... what drives me crazy is when folks sell a used truck, there's no pics underneath of the frame and body parts...
I also use Fluid Film on areas on my truck also. I did the left side of my truck last summer because the rockers are notorious for having thin paint and not only because I never put mud flaps on, stone chips as well... I painted the lower panels and rockers with Chassis Saver paint from Magnet paints. My goal is to get all the minor rust I have and take care of it with Chassis saver, then either do the body up the lines on the wheel wells and doors with either Monsta Liner myself, or have Line X do it. I won't have any secondary gray color anymore except the gray wheel flares when I re-install them, but I don't care. This is a long term truck for me... no payment and I love it. I want to keep her solid...
I had a 2012 almost 200k no problems when I sold it. Original turbo values egr and dpf and high pressure sure fuel pump CP4. I maintained the truck, except wheel alignments Thinking the dealer does a good job is wrong It was said the EGR cooler is bad on the early truck, they are able to be cleaned with a bucket of soaping water and time. Ford did improve the design of the EGR. Being able to turn a wrench does help. Do you need a diesel?? Gas is so much cheaper to fix. If the person took care its a better deal. If it has bigger tires wheel spacers, stupid stuff that will tell you it was owned by a person that cared more about looks then a person that used it and maintained it. I will tell you at 200 k the power-train might be good but other things need to be changed. Expect at 200k DPF EGR Turbo could be a issuse. The speed transmission is good unit if it was maintained.
If you tow heavy and long 30 percent of the time the EGR will stay clean and the DPF healthy. Clean good oil is required for the turbo. Keep the oil changed at 5 k for the turbo. Ford is nuts with there oil change intervals.
The wrong truck is not worth having for any price. Look for a private person, and take it to a diesel mechanic for a detailed review.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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