PIP, Computer, or Reisistor Code 212
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 154
Likes: 6
PIP, Computer, or Reisistor Code 212
Hey all, I know this has been discussed a lot on other threads but I'm looking for some situation specific help.
I've got a 1991 F250 with the 4.9L manual. I've been working through issues and am down to the last two KOEO codes 558 ((O) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure – EVR or PFE or Solenoids) in active codes and 212 ((M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault – Ignition Systems) in memory. I'm looking for help on the 212:
Truck runs great until warm and then bogs down and misses under load or when shifting into 3rd or 4th. I can feather the pedal to get it up to speed and then it cruises fine on flat surface but if you mash the gas or go up a hill it goes to chugging.
If I remove the spout it runs great but lacks power and runs a little hot. So, from what I've read in the forum, I'm guessing it's the PIP, Computer, or the resistor in the harness. My question is this: How do I go about checking each of those without simply throwing parts at it? Any help would be great
I've got a 1991 F250 with the 4.9L manual. I've been working through issues and am down to the last two KOEO codes 558 ((O) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure – EVR or PFE or Solenoids) in active codes and 212 ((M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault – Ignition Systems) in memory. I'm looking for help on the 212:
Truck runs great until warm and then bogs down and misses under load or when shifting into 3rd or 4th. I can feather the pedal to get it up to speed and then it cruises fine on flat surface but if you mash the gas or go up a hill it goes to chugging.
If I remove the spout it runs great but lacks power and runs a little hot. So, from what I've read in the forum, I'm guessing it's the PIP, Computer, or the resistor in the harness. My question is this: How do I go about checking each of those without simply throwing parts at it? Any help would be great
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 742
From: Maryland
Here's a link to a thread about the resistor, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...in-memory.html but with your symptoms, it may be the Ignition Control Module.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/what-does-the-pip-sensor-do
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/what-does-the-pip-sensor-do
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 154
Likes: 6
Soup Bean, with a handle like that you’ve gotta be in Eastern KY or near. Am I right?
According to the link you sent me it seems to say that if it’s the ICM or the PIP then I won’t have spark. I’ve also read that the ICM, if failing, is prone to act like my truck is when it’s hot. That said I’ve replaced the ICM but to no improvement though I could have gotten a bad one.
I’ll try to read through the link again but on my first reading I didn’t see the procedure. I’ve also read through the resistor thread and am still not clear if there is a way to diagnose it without replacing it.
According to the link you sent me it seems to say that if it’s the ICM or the PIP then I won’t have spark. I’ve also read that the ICM, if failing, is prone to act like my truck is when it’s hot. That said I’ve replaced the ICM but to no improvement though I could have gotten a bad one.
I’ll try to read through the link again but on my first reading I didn’t see the procedure. I’ve also read through the resistor thread and am still not clear if there is a way to diagnose it without replacing it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 742
From: Maryland
In the easy auto diagnostic article, you have to click on either the distributor mounted ICM link, or the fender mounted ICM link.
From what I've read, early warning signs of ICM failure start happening when the engine is warm.
In the resistor thread, there's also a highlighted link to a separate thread.
The name comes from North Carolina...
From what I've read, early warning signs of ICM failure start happening when the engine is warm.
In the resistor thread, there's also a highlighted link to a separate thread.
The name comes from North Carolina...
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 69
Likes: 12
From: DFW, Texas
I spent some time chasing the 212 code in my 95 5.0L and finally replaced the ICM. It had the infamous grey one which I assumed was original, but I replaced it with the black one and all has been well. You might want to look into that if it applies to the 4.9L
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2022
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Dfwf150, mine is grey but on an aftermarket distributor. I’ve replaced the ICM but still I understand they can be hit and miss with aftermarket parts. Does the black one have the 3 contact points that plug into the distributor?
also, to anyone, am I right to believe that the issue is NOT the PIP if the truck runs perfect when cold?
also, to anyone, am I right to believe that the issue is NOT the PIP if the truck runs perfect when cold?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 69
Likes: 12
From: DFW, Texas
I beleive the black remote-mounted ICMs started around 1994, so yours is on the distributor. The grey one is likely correct then. Did you check the resistor on it?
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2022
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Is the resistor you’re talking about the one in the harness? If so, no, I’m not entirely sure where it is. If you’re talking about a different one, can you explain what and where?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
ICM Pin 2 will work, you can also place a meter probe on the negative side of the coil. Both are electrically the same. Pin 4 on the computer (PCM/EEC/EEC) connector is where the other meter lead is placed. Leave the key in the Off position, set you meter to Ohms. You are expecting ~22K Ohms resistance. In the thread listed earlier the OP found when wiggling the wires where the IDM resistor is located the meter would frequently show an open circuit. This is a common failure mode. Over the years the soldered slice connections tend to fracture or I have seen the resistor broken a few times.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
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From: Kentucky
Wire colors are going to vary from what the diagrams show unfortunately. Best advice is start at the coil negative to see what the wire color is. The resistor is not used for any gauges or temperature sensing. It's there as a current limiting/buffer for coil firing status feedback to the computer. It is used any time the engine is running.
The basic ignition diagram is below, but take the wire colors as a general guide because it may not match your truck:
The basic ignition diagram is below, but take the wire colors as a general guide because it may not match your truck:
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 154
Likes: 6
Thanks rla2005. So, if the resistor is always in the loop (cold or hot), it leads me to think that my problem is elsewhere since the truck idles and drives great until warmed up. That said, I'll still check the resistor but it doesn't seem a likely culprit for my problems. Thoughts?