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One other thought: the little silver condenser(?) at the coil is pretty rough. Is it possible that could cause some of my problems if it were grounded out or just wires frayed?[/QUOTE]
I just noticed your quote under #28. I assume what you are talking about is just the radio anti-static capacitor. I actually had this condenser looking thing short out on my '94 F-150 and it quit going down the road and I couldn't get it started until I unhooked the capacitor from the coil. If I am referring to the correct part you mentioned, I would unhook it from your coil until your problem is resolved, it could be causing your problem.
I’ve opened up the rubber housing. One leg of the capacitor was sheared off. It’s hard to know if it was already broken or if it broke from the force of peeling away the rubber boot and adhesive. I checked the wires from the coil to where the capacitor had been attached and have continuity as well as those on the other side of the capacitor.
The wiring doesn’t seem damaged. I’ve ordered a new capacitor, will install it and report back.
Reporting back: I was able to successfully replace the resistor. It has eliminated (it seems) code 212, so that's good news. THE BAD NEWS is that it hasn't done anything to change the driving condition. If I leave the spout connector in it bucks and misses and will barely accelerate. If I remove the spout connector the engine runs smooth even under load, accelerates but lacks power, and runs a little on the warm side.
I'm going to go back through to make sure I've got continuity on all wiring and to confirm resistance. Any thoughts at this point?
A few more possible misleading thoughts: without the spout connector it misses occasionally but it's almost indiscernible so I'm not even certain it is missing. Is it possible that when the timing tries to advance the miss becomes worse and that's really all I'm experiencing (in this case code 212 being irrelevant)? If so, what would be the cause?
Glad you got Code 212 resolved. I do not recall if the plugs, wires cap and rotor have been replaced? If they have been, the next area I would look at is removing the computer to see if any of the capacitors are leaking. Very common problem these days and would relate to why removing the SPOUT lessens the problem. You may only have one capacitor. Another area to verify is fuel pressure when the engine is cold and under load as well as warm when the problem gets worse.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, PIP, and EIC. Also, it has a new fuel pump installed a few months ago and at that time the pressure was good. I’ve ordered the capacitors for the EEC. It’s the last possible thing I can imagine.
I've rebuilt the computer (replaced capacitors) and no significant change other than it runs even better when the SPOUT is unplugged. As mentioned early on I have code 558 which is the EGR solenoid circuit failure. So, now I'm going to chase that down. Is there a pretty straight forward way to check that and does anyone have a schematic on the wiring for the EGR solenoid?
That EGR solenois circuit failure can make it run like crap
Get that fixed
Most likely needs a new solenoid
The EGR vacuum regulator they call it the EVR, vents EGR vacuum to atmosphere untill the processor says go for EGR
So, a failing EVR causes EGR to be sent at all times
I have the pinpoint tests for a 1994 with 3 digit codes that should be the same or real similar
Thanks. I'll run through this test and see where it gets me. In the last pic it says that if the EVR circuit continuity is less than 5 ohms I should go on to DN13. Is DN13 relevant or should I simply run through what's here and see where it gets me?
Sorry,
I kinda thought you would be done by 11
if you made it to where you need to run through DN 13...
You will need to back probe connectors and read between the lines as 13 it requires the dreaded breakout box
Here you go
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