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I thought you were in the wrong forum when I saw the door emblems. You're describing a typical "hot no-start," which is usually caused by a leak in the high pressure oil system. When the oil is cold, it's thicker and doesn't leak, but after heating up and thinning out, it leaks past an o-ring so that pressure is not able to build.
The proper diagnosis is to, first, scan for codes. Several common leaks will throw codes. And, if you can monitor live data, you'll probably see your IPR valve is maxxed out as it tries to build pressure. The definitive diagnosis is to do an air test. You can search this forum for many threads on how to do that. You'll fill the system with air and listen to where it leaks out.
Otherwise, without codes, without data, without an air test, it could be about 20 different places.
Hmm. Not sure what you mean, but as I said, the first step is to scan for codes with a Powerstroke capable scanner. Step two is an air test - it tells you which o-ring is leaking, if that's the issue. There could be another cause, such as bad wiring. I just mention the leaky 0-ring because that's more common.
This might be a case of I bought a truck that is going to take me to the poor house of regrets, unfortunately.
IDK, it could be something pretty simple or, at least, not too expensive, like an STC or nipple cup, or chafed wire. DIY and save enough for ESL upgrade.
LOL, but without the ESL upgrade, we may never know. I was thinking he was saying it wouldn't re-start once it warmed up. But reading it again, he might just be saying he turns it off because something - one of the fluids I suppose - gets up to 215 degrees. That would make sense of his last post "no I have a cracked CAC pipe."
I expect the pipe meant he had no boost, and the no-boost was making the engine run hotter, which it will. So, I'm thinking he prolly does have a good idea what he's getting into (he was reading data), he just needs the ESL upgrade, lol. BTW, nothing wrong with that. I'd love to have the SSL upgrade myself.
What o rings start to leak and cause this I just did up pipes oil cooler and intake gaskets no I have a cracked plastic cac pipe
The High Pressure Oil System is sealed by lots of Orings in lots of places. The original post is gone (or at least I cannot see it), so I'm guessing you've got a hot no start issue as stated previously.
I'll assume its an 2004 model.
Potential oring issues:
1. Stand Pipe and Dummy Plugs: Stand pipes get oil to the oil rail to fire the injectors. Dummy plugs just stop the oil from leaking out of the oil rail. There are three orings that seal oil leaks from the up pipes and two, I think, that seal against oil leaks in the dummy plugs
2. There are four orings on each injector, but I think only the top, internal oring stops HP oil. These orings seal against the nipple cups (also call ball tubes)
3. Nipple cup Orings: These seal the ball tubes (also called nipple cups) to the high pressure oil rail
4. 2003 and 2004 model has a weak HP oil pump. it could be that.
5. 2005 and new have a snap to connect (STC) fitting that always goes bad and causes HP oil leaks.
Hope this helps.
To pinpoint which of the 5 is the issue, you will need to air test your high pressure oil system. Sometimes diagnostic codes will point you to the leaking part.
That was a joke about not being able to understand what you wrote. Does your truck not start? Or does it run too hot? Or does it not start when it gets hot?
Not a complete idiot, I'm already done. The oil cooler up pipes intake manifold gaskets and. Now it's to the point where it won't start at all Is my IPR goes from 14% to 84. And my ICP is only building about 375psi So I am trying to figure out how to put together a air leak tester Then I will update but what I find
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