I think that is a very sound idea. Over the past few years we have seen lots of folks jump into RVing as beginners with zero experience (we all start fresh at some point) who soon realize that lifestyle just isn’t for them. Starting off with a smaller unit will give you the full experience with a lot less invested.

 

Not a bad idea at all! Good luck in your quest!

 

I will parrot what a few other responders have said and share my personal experiences.

Don't get absorbed in the numbers. They don't account for real-life situations you will find yourself in. I started off with a RAM 3500 CCLB SRW (6.7 cummins) and then got into a GD 315 bumper-pull TT. I want to say that it was about 36' and somewhere close to 12,000 rolling down the road. This was well within the "numbers," and my truck towed that like a champ. Then, we decided to go full-time and bought a GD 390RK. That is 41.5' long (full profile) and weighs around 16,500-17,000 loaded rolling down the road. If I pack everything light, I am within the "numbers" by about 100 pounds or so. In real-life towing situations going up elevation, downgrades, through the rockies, across the plains, rough roads, and rolling hills, it is not the same towing experience! Now, we have an order in for an F450 because we have been in situations where it was white knuckle due to poor road conditions (damn I40!) or wind conditions that made us change lanes involuntarily.

Note, my RAM is highly modified: deleted, head studs, trans mods, 4.10 gears, 4k rated wheels and tires, brakes, suspension, factory airbag truck, and I took all DEF stuff off to make the truck lighter. It pulls my 390rk straight line like a champ. Grades, no problem. Traffic, no problem. Freeway speeds, no problem. So 85% of my driving is no problem. It is the other 15% that bothers me a lot. I have coined the term "SRW shuffle." Basically, it alludes to the fact you will be busy dealing with winds, passing semis, road conditions that upset the rear of SRW trucks, and underpasses where the wind stops and starts on either side, causing a slight sway.

I see plenty of F250s in front of behemoth triple-axle toy haulers that are probably within the numbers (or just don't care) that are not safe combinations going down the road. I had a neighbor in my trailer park in SoCal that had an F250 Tremor, and he pulled his 45' toy hauler (around 18k) with it. He admitted he should have gotten a bigger truck, but he only drove the trailer around locally, so he was willing to accept the risks. I would prefer if my fellow campers would accept less risk, especially when I share the road with you all.

You can't have too much truck for a trailer, but you can have too little!

 

Welcome to FTE Disarray!

 

Since ya'll are so helpful, I'm deployed right now so I can't get to the Keystone RV site from either gov't or personal computer to check out the specs, but here are a few TTs toy haulers that I'm looking at.

Keystone Outback 342CG - Camping World of Springfield - 2180434
Keystone Outback Ultra-lite 240URS - Camping World of Davenport - 2246317P
Keystone Outback 335CG - Camping World of Lubbock - 2236875

Looks like the 335CG is the fatty of the bunch, tipping the scales at 8,228 dry. It's just the wife, the Cane Corso and the 900# Harley Ultra Limited that'll be travelling in it. Check my math, but it seems like the F250 SRW should be able to handle it, right?

 

Well, from a numbers perspective, I am sure it would be fine. The point of consideration for a TT that long is the leverage it places on the tow vehicle. A bumper-pull trailer will have a greater effect on the tow vehicle than will a 5th wheel. I have owned both and pulled both with the same truck, and my GD 315 was almost as long behind my truck as my 5th wheel, yet the leverage it actioned was greater than my 5th wheel. Trailer sway and bounce will be more exaggerated.

A quality load-leveling/anti-sway hitch is worth the higher price tag. Some say the Hensley Arrow is the best money can buy. Interestingly, they are on sale (https://hensleymfg.com/collections/a...ensley-hitches) for $1,000 off. The price is still a lot to swallow out of the gate. I ran an Anderson setup on mine. It was lighter than most other hitches, easy to set up, and worked pretty well at controlling sway (and bounce to a degree).

A CCLB will tow that 37' TT better than a CCSB. In my opinion, an F350 SRW CCLB will be better out of the gate and allow some upward mobility in trailer size if, like me, you like the lifestyle and upgrade. Had my wife and I stuck with our original plan for a smaller 5th wheel floor plan, our SRW truck would have managed a smaller GD 5th wheel much easier, and I likely would not have placed an order for an F450.

Lastly, do your online research, but nothing beats walking dealer lots and walking in LOTS of floor plans by as MANY manufacturers as you can. I am pretty sure my wife and I walked through more than 60 or 70 trailers (TT and 5th wheels) from all of the mainstream manufacturers before we decided on what we wanted. You will notice differences in materials, build quality, and price. Then you have to decide where you want to compromise because you can't have your cake and eat it too unless you have brick-and-mortar house money to throw at it. Grand Design had the best balance of build quality/materials versus price, and that is where we settled.

Good luck in your search! Searching is the best part. Heck, my wife and I still go hit up RV places once in a while and walk through floor plans and even big motor homes (like we could afford one hahaha).

 

Good calls all around. I definitely plan on spending good coin on a good WD hitch. $1K off?!?! Thank God my internet is slow, I need to brace myself for this lol.

The SRW CC 7.3 is non-negotiable cuz I just got confirmation on my order yesterday lol. That and it'll be my daily driver on the very few days that I can't take the Harley.

Trust me, once I get back stateside, our first two weeks will be on the back of the Hog travelling to every RV store within range!

 

When shopping, just ignore the dry weight……..unless you are very different that any one else. No one goes camping empty. And much of the time that dry weight does not include batteries, propane tanks, generator, and all the other add-ons.. Look at the GVWR. But, with that being said, yes, I think your 250 will be fine.

Another thing with toy haulers is that if they are “lightweight”, what did they skimp on to make it light? Frame? Construction? Or what? All questions one should seek answers to when shopping.

 

Don't buy on the first visit and take someone else along that has some experience if possible

 

My only suggestion is do your own research on every camper! Sales people will tell you anything to get the sale, no regard for safely towing your rig with the vehicle you're driving or plan to use to tow with. Just about every camper sales person will tell you that you can tow any camper you look at regardless of the camper or truck specs. They are there to make their commission and not to provide you with any safe feedback other than make the sale, make the sale.

 

The best way to do things, is to find the trailer you want. Then, buy the truck that will accommodate it. So you're not over/under buying.

 

Crazyassain,

I have been Rving for almost 30 years and I am no expert. I would highly suggest, since you are talking about living full-time in one, you go look and find the RV you want to live in before buying a truck. We have been looking the last couple of weeks for our 3rd TH RV and the one my wife wants, my F350 SW, is not rated for. I think you will be surprised by how much they weigh these days. Buy the truck around your RV home. I think you and your significant other will be happier because you won't be limited by what your truck can tow.

 

Definitely a dually (drw) for fulltime. The drw has better stability in the wind. Toyhauler fithwheels are typically 20 to 25% on the pin. With a payload of 3923 lbs that you listed prob don't want to exceed 2600 lbs pin weight. Less your toy, its very easy to add 1000 lbs to 2000 lbs in cargo to the toyhauler. Thats not including liquids in the tanks. Basically that limits you to a 13000 lb toyhauler loaded. Depending on what your looking for they are probably very close to that in empty ( uvw) weight. This is where an f350 or f450 drw comes in. More payload and better stability. I am not positive, but I believe the f350 and f450 have the same payload but the f450 has a better turning radius. Payload capacity is the limit of weight you can put in the truck. Be it 1 or 4 people in the cab and collective weight in the bed of the truck. In this case pin weight of the toybauler. For that reason I personally take the payload capacity, deduct 20% plus another 800lbs for people. Always try to stay south of that number too but thats what I would consider acceptable. If you plan on a tool box and bed cover then deduct another 500 lbs for those.