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I'm appealing to the towing collective here. I'm looking for guidance on the upper limit that I can tow so I can start to narrow down my search for a full-time living, 5th-wheel toy-hauler. All these numbers and acronyms have my head swimming.
I'm ordering a '24 F250 CCSB SRW with 4.30 gears. Here are the numbers I combed off the interwebs for that configuration:
GVWR - 10000
GCWR - 26000
5th wheel towing - 18,800
Payload - 3923
I don't want to tow to the max capability of the truck, but I do need to set the upper limit for my search because the options are overwhelming.
All that to ask: What's the maximum fully loaded weight and pin weight that I should be looking at to not overwhelm my truck?
Many use 80% as the rule for excellent towing upper end, although you certainly can go higher. Payload typically is the limiting factor, be careful of internet numbers, payload is specific for each truck produced, more the bling on truck, less the payload. Be sure you physically see or know what payload an exact configuration ordered will get you, many with lesser F150s are surprised when their Platinums can't tow the trailer they hoped for.
Many use 80% as the rule for excellent towing upper end, although you certainly can go higher. Payload typically is the limiting factor, be careful of internet numbers, payload is specific for each truck produced, more the bling on truck, less the payload. Be sure you physically see or know what payload an exact configuration ordered will get you, many with lesser F150s are surprised when their Platinums can't tow the trailer they hoped for.
Spence, thx for taking the time to reply, but you're going to have to dumb it down a little for an old military cop lol. 80% of which figure, payload? If so, does that apply to tongue/pin weight?
The numbers that are missing are tire load rating and axle load rating. Those are the numbers you need to be concerned with. The 10,000 GVWR is the rating given to the truck for licensing requirements in some states. The payload rating is the difference between GVWR and tire rating nothing more, they really don't mean much but are required by the government since the whole Ford/Firestone issue. 26,000 only applies on commercial. With that said, I pull my 16,000# loaded 5th with a 250 and always have. If you are looking at a toy hauler for full time, I would look at a larger truck, depending on weight probably a dually. I stretch the limits on my truck without concern, but would have a dually for that setup.
Spence, thx for taking the time to reply, but you're going to have to dumb it down a little for an old military cop lol. 80% of which figure, payload? If so, does that apply to tongue/pin weight?
I realized that you are talking 5r, honestly I do not have experience with them. My 80% applies to both payload and towing, as figures are often understated and printed for ideal towing conditions. I like have some room for the extra person, firewood, whatever... without nearing my max payload.
You need to be concerned about 2 things - GVWR and GCWR. Axles will almost never be a concern if you abide by these two things. You need to know what your truck will weigh all fueled up with all the gear and passengers. Subtract this from the GVWR on the driver door sticker, and that is what is left for the fifth wheel pin weight. The pin weight is usually about 20% of the trailer weight. So take the calculated max pin weight and divide by 0.20 to get the max loaded trailer weight. Make sure the loaded truck and trailer are below the GCWR. Now you need to pick a trailer with a dry weight such that when you load it all up with gear and water you are under the max trailer weight you calculated. Best to leave yourself a healthy margin, say 10-20%.
Example:
Your truck probably weighs 7k.
Say you add 1k in payload.
You have roughly 2k max pin weight.
That’s about 10k max trailer.
Your GCW would be 20k.
Probably don’t want to go much more than 9k on a fully loaded trailer, so probably an 8k dry weight trailer.
Double check your payload. Is that from the driver door jam sticker? That doesn’t sound right for 10k GVWR. Should be closer to 3k. These new trucks might be lighter than I thought though. 3/4 tons can get limited by payload rather quickly with a fifth wheel.
When considering trailers, ignore the dry weights. Nobody goes camping with a dry trailer. Instead, look at the trailer's GVWR. 20% to 25% of the GVWR is what you're going to end up with for a pin weight. Every trailer is different and how you load it makes a difference too.
You didn't say which engine you're getting. If it's the 6.7L diesel then I think your payload number is optimistic.
You need to be concerned about 2 things - GVWR and GCWR. Axles will almost never be a concern if you abide by these two things. You need to know what your truck will weigh all fueled up with all the gear and passengers. Subtract this from the GVWR on the driver door sticker, and that is what is left for the fifth wheel pin weight. The pin weight is usually about 20% of the trailer weight. So take the calculated max pin weight and divide by 0.20 to get the max loaded trailer weight. Make sure the loaded truck and trailer are below the GCWR. Now you need to pick a trailer with a dry weight such that when you load it all up with gear and water you are under the max trailer weight you calculated. Best to leave yourself a healthy margin, say 10-20%.
Example:
Your truck probably weighs 7k.
Say you add 1k in payload.
You have roughly 2k max pin weight.
That’s about 10k max trailer.
Your GCW would be 20k.
Probably don’t want to go much more than 9k on a fully loaded trailer, so probably an 8k dry weight trailer.
Double check your payload. Is that from the driver door jam sticker? That doesn’t sound right for 10k GVWR. Should be closer to 3k. These new trucks might be lighter than I thought though. 3/4 tons can get limited by payload rather quickly with a fifth wheel.
When considering trailers, ignore the dry weights. Nobody goes camping with a dry trailer. Instead, look at the trailer's GVWR. 20% to 25% of the GVWR is what you're going to end up with for a pin weight. Every trailer is different and how you load it makes a difference too.
You didn't say which engine you're getting. If it's the 6.7L diesel then I think your payload number is optimistic.
If one thinks that the GVWR on a truck is for anything more than registration purposes, ask yourself why Ford offers a 10000# derate on a F350?
This may be correct about the 10k derate business, but going off of axle and tire ratings is not correct. My truck has an 11.9k GVWR. I cannot just look at the axles and tires and go with that. I will exceed GVWR, which is there for a reason. There is no derate on my truck. Telling the op to look at axles and tires is wrong. There would be no point in a one ton if that were the case, correct?
I would lower your trailer search to around the 15K GVW. It is going to drink some fuel and getting in/out of gas stations can be a bit of a hassle at the gas pumps.
As said above, ignore what the salesmen says and the pin wt stickers. Go by the GVW of the trailer and then 20% at least for the pin wt.
Full timers...lots of stuff gets added. Dishes, food, 4 season clothes, books, DVD's, outdoor camping items. Computers, work stuff/documents.
I would opt to change it to a F350 if possible. Get the overload and rear stabilizer on it.
I would peg your rear end at about 3200 lbs and your axle rating at around 6100 lbs. so about 3K is what you may have for pin wt.
This may be correct about the 10k derate business, but going off of axle and tire ratings is not correct. My truck has an 11.9k GVWR. I cannot just look at the axles and tires and go with that. I will exceed GVWR, which is there for a reason. There is no derate on my truck. Telling the op to look at axles and tires is wrong. There would be no point in a one ton if that were the case, correct?
Partly correct. The rear axle on a 350 is rated for around 900# more. The reason for the GVWR derate is licensing. A 11.9K GVWR plus a 15K trailer puts you over 26,000#, possible CDL. The same combo with a 10K GVWR, 25K, under CDL. Is there a different in the 250, and 350? Yes, but as long as you don't go over axle or tire ratings one is good to go. Honestly, if I had a trailer that my 250 couldn't tow, I would jump to a dually.