Radiator Support
https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...r-core-support
They even supply this handy tutorial video to go with it.
I recently replaced the hood of my truck, due to rust. The guy who painted the replacement hood and helped me to install it advised me against replacing the radiator core support because it is a difficult job. He instead recommended to just have somebody weld in some extra support. Kevin Tetz, in the video I linked, scored this job in difficulty at 3/5, and he considers it, in his words, "not that bad". He advises that "weekend warriors" will want to give themselves a weekend to do it. For me, I usually take time estimates like that and double them at the very least to guess how long it will take me to do it.
I would rather just do it the right way and then ideally not worry about it ever again. I'm not the most mechanically inclined guy, but I've done a few big jobs on the truck already (swapped automatic transmission to manual, for example). It really doesn't look that bad watching Kevin Tetz do it in the video. I suspect it'll be a little bit tougher for me, just because of the more advanced rusting on my truck.
What do you guys think? Has anybody used that particular radiator support from LMC truck as a replacement before? Also, what challenges might I encounter that I may not be envisioning? What other advice might you guys have for me?
Edit: Here's an old thread about these LMC radiator supports. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...pport-lmc.html
Edit 2: I went ahead and ordered one of those radiator supports because the reviews in that previous thread were positive. I ordered all of the "required" amounts from the catalog of all of the associated parts, except the "Rad core mounting kit", which looks like the bushings and the bolts and nuts for the bushings and all of the doodads that go with them. I will have to figure out something else for that, because LMC is out of stock.
S&B just came out with all new mounts, you may check into them. I put Energy on my '96, seem fine to me too.
Very important you measure the overall width and height of the LMC unit and that of the OEM support. Take pictures of the hood/fender spacing before you remove the support. Not all aftermarket supports are the same size of the OEM parts. Any difference will show once reassembled in the spacing between the fenders and the hood. Knowing size can help you adjust the position of the support to minimize the difference when it goes back onto the truck.
As for the mounting hardware kit, definitely replace the bolts with ones that have the correct hardness; a lot of torque and stress on these bolts. You may well find the ones you remove are actually worn as well as rusted. Pay attention to the order and use of spacers used to position the support vertically.
You need to be very careful working around the air condition condensing coil. Box it in cardboard it to keep it safe from bumps and dings, and suspend it so you don't damage the cooling lines to the compressor or you'll have a whole new project to deal with. You don't need to drop the bumper as you can see below, but if your rust is as bad as you indicate, then access to the support mounts will be greatly improved. If you have plow frame hardware on the truck and don't plow, removing the plow frame will enhance access a lot.
Take lots of pictures!!! Especially of the spacers and bushing order and location as they are stacked by the factory. Bag and label nuts, bolts and hardware to be boxed with the part removed. Use decent penetrating oil and use anti seize when you reinstall hardware. Allow a weekend or 2 eight hour days with the correct equipment to complete the job. If you start doing things like repainting battery brackets and cleaning the engine compartment with obstructions out of the the way, then all bets are off as for time to complete.
Have fun and Good luck!
I have access to piles of them when in AZ. Well, gassers almost always. The Diesel one is the tough guy to find.
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I restored my diesel radiator mount simply because they are so hard to find. Shipping to the east coast is costly, plus the cost of the part made rebuilding mine cost effective.
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you can use a 92-97 support on a 87-91 truck, but you will also have to use the 92-97 nose too.
Very important you measure the overall width and height of the LMC unit and that of the OEM support. Take pictures of the hood/fender spacing before you remove the support. Not all aftermarket supports are the same size of the OEM parts. Any difference will show once reassembled in the spacing between the fenders and the hood. Knowing size can help you adjust the position of the support to minimize the difference when it goes back onto the truck.
As for the mounting hardware kit, definitely replace the bolts with ones that have the correct hardness; a lot of torque and stress on these bolts. You may well find the ones you remove are actually worn as well as rusted. Pay attention to the order and use of spacers used to position the support vertically.
You need to be very careful working around the air condition condensing coil. Box it in cardboard it to keep it safe from bumps and dings, and suspend it so you don't damage the cooling lines to the compressor or you'll have a whole new project to deal with. You don't need to drop the bumper as you can see below, but if your rust is as bad as you indicate, then access to the support mounts will be greatly improved. If you have plow frame hardware on the truck and don't plow, removing the plow frame will enhance access a lot.
Take lots of pictures!!! Especially of the spacers and bushing order and location as they are stacked by the factory. Bag and label nuts, bolts and hardware to be boxed with the part removed. Use decent penetrating oil and use anti seize when you reinstall hardware. Allow a weekend or 2 eight hour days with the correct equipment to complete the job. If you start doing things like repainting battery brackets and cleaning the engine compartment with obstructions out of the the way, then all bets are off as for time to complete.
Have fun and Good luck!
Thank you so much for the advice!
Get the paint code off your VIN tag on the driver's door frame. (See attached file) Buy a couple of spray cans of Dupli-Color paint that match your vehicle paint code. Buy one can of Spray Max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol 2 part epoxy (Amazon). Get a good respirator with an organic chemical filter (important). Buy some wax and grease remover. Buy one tube of automotive flexible seam seal (SEM medium is very good). Buy one can of SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant
Try this process: Do this when the temperature is above 65 deg F.
1. Mix a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle. Wash the new mount well.
2. Wash the mount down completely with wax and grease remover.
3. Sand it down hitting all areas with some 120 grit paper.
4 Wash it down with your spray bottle to get all the dust off.
5. Apply the seam seal to every joint, seam and every weld and spot weld. (smooth with a wet finger)
6. Paint with Dupli-Color (two coats) wear your mask. Let dry 24 hours.
7. Wipe down with tack rag or damp microfiber cloth. Dry completely.
8. Spray with Spray Max. Read the instruction on the Spray Max can. VERY IMPROTANT to wear your vaper mask. This stuff is moisture cured. Breath it in, and you clear coat your lungs. Don't be a dummy and keep the kids away.
9. Let it dry - You're done. Simple to do.
After you install the mount and all your work is done (not before) spray the mount with the Surface Shield.
Have fun.
Get the paint code off your VIN tag on the driver's door frame. (See attached file) Buy a couple of spray cans of Dupli-Color paint that match your vehicle paint code. Buy one can of Spray Max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol 2 part epoxy (Amazon). Get a good respirator with an organic chemical filter (important). Buy some wax and grease remover. Buy one tube of automotive flexible seam seal (SEM medium is very good). Buy one can of SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant
Try this process: Do this when the temperature is above 65 deg F.
1. Mix a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle. Wash the new mount well.
2. Wash the mount down completely with wax and grease remover.
3. Sand it down hitting all areas with some 120 grit paper.
4 Wash it down with your spray bottle to get all the dust off.
5. Apply the seam seal to every joint, seam and every weld and spot weld. (smooth with a wet finger)
6. Paint with Dupli-Color (two coats) wear your mask. Let dry 24 hours.
7. Wipe down with tack rag or damp microfiber cloth. Dry completely.
8. Spray with Spray Max. Read the instruction on the Spray Max can. VERY IMPROTANT to wear your vaper mask. This stuff is moisture cured. Breath it in, and you clear coat your lungs. Don't be a dummy and keep the kids away.
9. Let it dry - You're done. Simple to do.
After you install the mount and all your work is done (not before) spray the mount with the Surface Shield.
Have fun.
Do you think I can get by covering my mouth with an old T-shirt? Clear coating my lungs doesn't sound so bad. I read somewhere that's the best way to prevent COVID-19.
I'm just kidding. I'll wear the appropriate PPE as you suggested.












