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Hopefully it is better quality than a fender I got from them for my '97, less than 20,000 miles on it and it had 9 cracks, found one in a wrecking yard and replaced it.
I also grabbed the core support so I could have a spare.
It's definitely better than the one that is currently in the truck.
The hood that I got from them seemed pretty solid. I don't even have 1000 miles on it yet. Again, it is much better than the one that was on the truck.
"Very important you measure the overall width and height of the LMC unit and that of the OEM support. Take pictures of the hood/fender spacing before you remove the support. Not all aftermarket supports are the same size of the OEM parts. Any difference will show once reassembled in the spacing between the fenders and the hood. Knowing size can help you adjust the position of the support to minimize the difference when it goes back onto the truck.
If the measurements are wrong, send it back. They should pay for return freight. Measure twice to be sure.
Take pictures of the original with tape measure and of the LMC unit with tape measure as proof.
"Very important you measure the overall width and height of the LMC unit and that of the OEM support. Take pictures of the hood/fender spacing before you remove the support. Not all aftermarket supports are the same size of the OEM parts. Any difference will show once reassembled in the spacing between the fenders and the hood. Knowing size can help you adjust the position of the support to minimize the difference when it goes back onto the truck.
If the measurements are wrong, send it back. They should pay for return freight. Measure twice to be sure.
Take pictures of the original with tape measure and of the LMC unit with tape measure as proof.
Otherwise, prep as described.
Make it fun.
I’ll measure when I get home. I ran to a supply store for what I needed (paint and whatnot), and the counter guy appreciated the details about what I needed. I told him that I had good advice. He asked me to pass on his thanks to the person who advised me. So, thank you, Yeoman!
Keep in mind your hands transfer oils to the metal. If you wear latex gloves when sanding you reduce the likelihood of oil transfer from your hands. Oils from your hand cause the paint to fisheye, which is a royal pain to cure. If you don't use gloves, after you sand and rinse/blow off the dust, it might be a good idea to wash the mount a second time with wax and grease remover.
Wear latex gloves once you clean it down. It's the ounce of protection that limits a pound of cure.
Have fun.
I measured the replacement radiator core support and the one in the truck. Everything looks good! Same dimensions everywhere I measured. Width looks good and height looks good. I will make sure to take good pictures of the spacing between the hood and fender and such when I'm closer to ready to go.
I've got plenty of nitrile gloves. I'll make sure to wear them anytime my hands get close to the radiator core support after the first wash. I'll probably go ahead and do the second wash with wax and grease remover, just in case. Nitrile gloves can rip and so forth, so I'll just plan on doing the second wash. I am planning to take it really slow, and, like you say, have fun with it.
Just Okay???? Not GREAT???
Dare I ask for pictures.....
Yeah, just okay. Your directions were good, but my ability to execute them was not. The paint looks good overall, but I struggled with the seam sealer. It seemed to cure much more quickly than I thought it might, and smoothing it became nearly impossible as a result. So, most of the seams look pretty rough. It’ll get the job done, though. It probably looks just like you’d expect for the first body part someone had ever painted. That was good advice on wearing a respirator, especially during the clearcoat application. The fumes from the clearcoat were powerful! I’m a little too shy to post pictures of it. Just look at a picture of the LMC support, and imagine it in oxford white with rough looking seams.
Nobody will see the seams once it's all back together.
That clear 2 part coating is tough and will help keep the rust from starting.
AFTER installed and you don't need to touch it again, buy yourself a can or two of Blaster Surface Shield.
Spray that stuff only when you are sure you are done, else you will hate yourself for using it if you have to work on or near the radiator support.
It will keep the water away if you reapply it as instructed. It also will hide your seam issues.
Nobody will see the seams once it's all back together.
That clear 2 part coating is tough and will help keep the rust from starting.
AFTER installed and you don't need to touch it again, buy yourself a can or two of Blaster Surface Shield.
Spray that stuff only when you are sure you are done, else you will hate yourself for using it if you have to work on or near the radiator support.
It will keep the water away if you reapply it as instructed. It also will hide your seam issues.
I got a can of Surface Shield on your advice. It looks like the same stuff (or the same idea, at least) as Fluid Film. I already have some Fluid Film, and it’s a bit easier for me to source. Do you consider them equivalent? I was thinking about undercoating the heck out of my truck with Fluid Film before Winter because rust makes me sad.
I did get a can of Surface Shield, but I am curious to hear your thoughts about it versus Fluid Film.
Personally, I use Woolwax. Same formula as Fluid Film, but without the odor.
Go to https://www.woolwaxusa.com/ and read about the product. Bob Smith is the owner. Call him and ask him why he thinks his product is better. Expect bias, but learn from him what's best for your truck. BTW: he used to work for Fluid Film.
That's very cool! It looks like it's a little harder to find than Fluid Film, but the lack of odor would be nice, and it looks from some videos on there that it might lay on a little thicker. It might hold on better.
I bought directly from Woolwax. If you speak with Bob he may give you a discount code, especially if you buy a kit like I did with the gun and an aerosol can, which was vey helpful to get inside door panels and jams.
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