Greetings....just put new injectors in recently, got everything fired up and went to drive out the air in the oil lines.....truck starts, put it in reverse and it revs up but goes nowhere. Same thing in D 2 1.
RPMs go up when not in P or N
I checked fluid...good at cold level.
Truck doesn't idle rough or anything....purrs like a kitten.
Pretty bummed out about this.... fired up Forscan and got the following codes......

Code: B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault (instrument cluster)
Code: U1262 - SCP Data Link Fault (instrument cluster)
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Code: P0603 - Power interruption on KAPWR circuit. (this could be from disconnecting and reconnecting the battery)
Code: P0281 - Cylinder #7 Contribution/Balance (from air in oil lines still?)
Code: P0284 - Cylinder #8 Contribution/Balance (from air in oil lines still?)
Code: P1751 - Shift Solenoid #1 functional fault (possible hydraulic failure?? - I just added a John Wood valve body and a Ford 6.0 cooler with a Derale thermostat)
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low. (brand new real Interstate batteries, but I will charge them tonight)
Code: P1812 - Four wheel drive mode select circuit failure
Code: B1359 - Ignition run / accessory circuit failure

Ran the KOER Cylinder Contribution Self Test and it died mid test

Any suggestions at this point would be most appreciated. I have done a lot of work on this over the past few months

 

Have you checked the transfer case to make sure it’s still in gear?

 

?? I'm probably stupid, but I am not understanding....how do I check the transfer case? I can hear audible RPM changes when shifting on the column. I did have to push it in N to get it in my driveway....total of 50yards tho.

 

Never mind. I’m the stupid one. It’s been a really long day. I was thinking of the manual transfer case that has Neutral. Mind went there because of the 4x4 codes. ESOF doesn’t have a neutral unless your new injectors added one. Sorry about the confusion.

I think any gear other than park should allow the truck to roll when engine is off. So that aspect may not be relevant.

When mine suddenly had a bunch of neutrals it was the TC that gave out. But let’s not go there.

How long since the JW VB was installed? Checking the fluid with engine running correct?

I will let some others jump in that doesn’t have a dead brain this evening.

 

Trans only has 30K on it...yes, fluid is full at the cold marker and checked with engine running.
I just installed the JW VB a few months ago....I have not driven it since due to all the other stuff I've been doing.

I know these wont move if fluid is low.....it drove fine before I did all this stuff. LOL I am sure I am stupid and its just something I am missing....or maybe the fluid hasn't run through everything yet?? I even added another quart due to the 6.0 cooler.

Added a pic of the receipt in case there is something that jumps out at anyone ...... could have had a BTS for this price.

 

I would be looking at the VB install. This is the major change point since the last time it ran correctly.

So was it driving fine (50 yards) then suddenly quit?

Did you do anything with the manual valve during VB swap? Sorry, I can’t remember how this goes together. Just spitballing.

Based on the code and this chart I would suspect solenoid 1 (or associated wiring) has an issue. It shows an ON for 1st and reverse. But @Mark Kovalsky is the man who can tell you.




Don’t pay too much attention to my tired brain. I’m just trying to throw out some ideas while we wait for others to chime in.

 

I have done 3 of these JWVB swaps.....I just drop the old one, put the new one in and button it all up and add fluid back. I didn't mess with anything else....I don't even know what/where the manual valve is.
It drove fine before the 'project'. I pushed it in neutral for 50 yards while engine was off (old batteries were shot)....just to get it in my driveway.
Could I have gotten a bad VB?
Your brain and mine are in the same place......that's why I posted this. Figured I might be overlooking something relatively small.......maybe its my brain. haha

PIC of the old valve body

old valve body..not sure if this helps

 

The manual valve is the valve that the linkage connects to. If it isn't connected the trans will never come out of park.

It can't be anything electrical. Even if the electrical isn't connected it will still go into gear.

The RPMs are changing because the PCM commands different idle speeds in park and neutral versus in gear idle speeds. The change in RPM does not indicate that the transmission is doing anything.

My first check would be to see if the filter is in place and if the linkage is connected to the manual valve.

 

Is that on the outside of the transmission? The only thing I took out was the regular valve body and the filter. I will drop the pan Monday evening and see if the filter came off. What else am I looking for while I am there? Should I take the valve body back off and take a picture of it and what is behind it? I guess I am confused as to what the manual valve looks like....Google didn't help much.
If its this....I never touched it. I took nothing apart.

 

This has to be connected.




Edit to add:
Oh, so it hasn’t moved at all since the work was done? I thought the 50 yards was after the test drive.

I would also triple check the fluid level. How much fluid did you lose during the work? I saw you added a quart. Maybe was getting a false reading from the fluid in the tube from fill? I’m not sure how much would be needed to fill the cooler and lines.

 

Ah...roger that...glad your brain kicked on after all. Now for mine.
I didn't mess with that thing at all.....the o-ring on the filter was pretty hard, but I definitely heard a pop when I pushed it back up in there. Maybe time for a new one.
No, the truck hasn't moved and inch since the work finished. The 50 yards was my buddy pulling it out of the side yard and then we pushed it into the driveway. I couldn't start it due to dead batteries which is why he towed me out and we pushed it from the street.
It sure felt like I lost more than 6qts...I have put in 7 so far, but its probable I lost more than the 6 when I cut the transmission lines to add the Derale and 6.0 cooler, and when they were unhooked from the radiator. Ill drain the pan and see what I get....I have an empty 2.5 gallon Travellers oil jug....it shouldn't even come close to filling that up with just a pan drain.

Thanks for the pointers gentlemen!....I'll report back.

 

Many years ago I had a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the V8. I had the transmission serviced and the fluid flushed by a trusted shop. I was there waiting for it to be done and as closing time arrived the shop manager came out to tell me there was a problem.

The transmission would not engage a gear when the selector was moved. Or, perhaps it would after 20 seconds or so, I cannot remember for sure. It was not right though.

Turned out the filter or seal was not fully seated. I think the filter was only out by a very small amount, but I don't know for sure as they were in the shop bay.

I know virtually nothing about the 4R100, but aren't there two filters available, but only one is right for your truck? Seems like there is a deep pan version or something, but I could be wrong.

Did you install a new filter and if so, what is the part number?

 

Its the same filter....however, I did order another one to be sure the orange o-ring wasn't damaged when I took it out the first time. Or maybe I just didn't push it up ALL the way....I stopped when I heard a nice pop.
Motorcraft FT-114 is the part # that I just ordered. If the old one didn't go all the way up, Ill have a spare for next time. I understand these don't have to be changed very often as they only grab large particles.
Yes, we need the deep pan version for most instances, especially the 4x4.

 

The manual valve is circled in this photo.

 

Ill be checking it out.....I didn't even get near that thing when I changed the valve body. I think you guys might be right about the filter not being all the way in...I will take pics of the manual valve and post it too.