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Well, it's a decision that's been pestering me. I did a lot of work between stripping two trucks, a '73 F100 and a '79 F150 Super Crew of their AC parts in two hot, stinky, bug infested junk yards in 1986, one was free, one I paid the man $100 for stripper rights. I took the dash & instrument cluster too.. I only did it because funds were tight and we were wanting to save to build a home and yet, I had bought this '77 F-150 that was a really nice 35K mile 4x4, but it had no AC. Her Dad had a '77 F250 without air, he did OK. Was a day Wife and I took the truck over to my parents, across the Blue Ridge Mts. We darn near melted, it was hot and NO air come through the vents. Few years later I learned it was because of that cool looking red tint bug shield. Her Dad's had no bug shield.
Anyway, I spent a week of spare time after my shifts making the swap after marking the firewall using a piece of cardboard I had made a template from in that '79. I had sat in weeds infested by ticks and spiders, with a .22 loaded with snake "medicine" just in case to make that template from that '79 firewall. I think was July or August by then. I also removed my dash to create those holes for vents exactly where they were in that same '79, but I brung the '79 dash panel home. I did not use it because it was green. I had sorted my pieces, decided on the '73 heater core that did not leak with air on it submerged in a water bucket, and the '73 controls with the AC script, but used the box and exp. valve and evaporator from the '79. I used the '79 hoses too, but bought a new dryer and condenser and I used the '79 compressor and mounts (it had a 400) . I do have the '73 compressor & idler, but not the mounts (it was a FE).
R-12 was cheap then, and after pulling a vacuum, we were charging it and a weld blew out of the dryer, but NAPA had one in stock. I got the condenser in just by removing the hood latch and brace for the grille. Was a plate over the hole I needed in the radiator core support. AC worked great for a few years, was still good when we took it to Vermont to get a old Triumph MC in 1994 still, 760 miles each way. Sometime after that, over time, it lost it's charge and I just was not driving it so much on road trips. I doubt we'll take it on any more long trips now either, maybe 100 miles one way to visit family.
I'm gonna need to replace the front shaft seal at least on the compressor, I need to replace all the O-ring seals with green, I'll need a new drier, I'll need to replace or at least flush the condenser and the hoses and evaporator. I think it OK to go ahead and close off the valves at the compressor and remove the compressor to in my shop, I'll clean it up and replace that seal, put in ester oil. I think I'll secure the hoses all over the brake booster pointing downward, ends covered well, I can flush them and the evap core and exp valve, or replace as needed there / then. I might spring for 3 new barrier hoses. I can pretty easily get the condenser out to flush it, and the drier for replacing. Then, when everything is cleaned up, put all that back together, but retain use of the truck in the mean time. Once it's all back together, I can pull a vacuum on it. If it holds vacuum then,... then I'll get Roy to charge it with the R134A.
Right now, there is no pressure on the system, the belt is off, the compressor clutch is unplugged, but the compressor turns easily by hand and the pulley spins really smooth. I recently rediscovered it can blow cool ambient air through the vents, just by correcting heater valve operation, it's comfortable enough..
I wish was room for an auxiliary electric fan ahead of the condenser ahead of the radiator, maybe two smaller ones ... one each side of center? Maybe something like 10"?
I did wire in a toggle switch to also put power to the compressor clutch without having to use AC, it really made the defrost function work like "right now".
UPDATED 08-10-2023:
Well, 3 pages, ... 33 or more posts, including responses, tips, ideas (thanks all) ... and here I am in a "holding pattern". Second new compressor shaft seal kit got here and is safely in place now, first one had a broke carbon ring. Compressor is off of the truck but is ready to go back on it.. I find that I will need a hose set and condenser too. I'll likely get back to it in time. UPDATED 04-18-2024:
Well, Spring is here, and to be truthful, I have likely given up on my '77's AC. I think it's explained in my last post of this thread. It didn't have air when purchased, and if it gets hot enough now to desire AC, I'll take something else.
My 81 F100 did not have AC but my 81 F100 parts truck did and was bought becasue I wanted to swap it over to my truck.
Like yours the 80 to 86 trucks have different firewalls between non-AC and AC.also.
My fix for that was to replace half the firewall.
Yes it would have been easier to just cut the 3rd hole but what fun is that
The only thing I reused was the evap coil and the high psi hose other hoses & drier was all new when I got my system back together.
I bought a used compressor as I had none so needed something for a core but I used it.
It was a little noisy but worked.
Then had the clutch burn out so replaced it.
Shortly after the used compressor stopped working.
That is when I replaced with a new one and also replaced the evap coil.
Before that I was fighting leaks from being a dumbazz and not going back over my work (loose fittings).
So far from end of last summer it has been working great and cools off the cab in no time.
I would say if you have the tools, vacuum pump (rent?) and gauges, it is not hard to recharge the system.
Thanks on the job well done
Posting pictures I hope gives some the little kick they need to start, continue or finish a project that they can enjoy.
If you have a vacuum pump and guessing you will be doing all the work to make it hold a vacuum then it is nothing to charge it.
I use a HF gauges and vacuum pump to service the trucks AC and my son has used it to service his and a friends.
I think the hardest part is figuring out by weight how much 134a is needed to fill the system, at least it was for me.
Oh you will need the fitting adapters to go from R12 fittings on the truck to 134a of the gauges & Freon cans.
Dave ----
I have everything except a gage set, I used to have a good gage set, but they've walked away sometime.
Couple years ago, I bought a case of the r134a on a commercial appreciation sale at the store I was working in, delivery, etc after retirement from the state. I might ought'a buy a set, probably be good to have I think. Four Fords that use it tell me so.
I put a 10" fan on the passenger side top of my condenser and it helps a lot at low speeds, just a 12v pusher and it fit ok mounted with screw and nut.
Yesterday I bought a set of gages FuzzFace2 mentioned, have can taps for both types ordered, (my "stock" of cans are puncture types, but new stuff is self sealing type) and I've ordered new Rcvr/dryer and exp valve, and while I was gonna pull the compressor off, my "Ford" shop manual says how to replace the seal on the truck. I likely will still pull it though. I'll have to get my flushing stuff. I have the new green O-rings and fittings. Even if this falls through, I still have 4 Fords with R134A that the gauges will work with.
Originally Posted by F-250 WARHORSE
I put a 10" fan on the passenger side top of my condenser and it helps a lot at low speeds, just a 12v pusher and it fit ok mounted with screw and nut.
I have a bigger one to put on my '07, but definitely gonna look at a 10" now for the '77. Just ain't enough room between latch mount and condenser. Back in the '80s and up into early '00s, Wife and I were going to Nascar races and would often sit in miles of traffic bumper to bumper on hot day with AC on ... getting into the track at Charlotte, Atlanta, Bristol ... or other tracks. The '85 T-bird we often drove never "over heated" ... but it did sometimes look like it might be going to ... so I installed an extra 13" switched electric fan in front of radiator. I recall that it helped a good bit.
I was gonna start pulling some parts one day, turned a nut at the compressor .... phfffffffffffffffft ... guess it wasn't so empty after all. Just some pressure. Means it's likely clean anyway ... and not as leaky as I thought.
New Four Seasons receiver-drier and expansion valve came a few days ago, including more O-rings. Both are marked for R134A, I didn't know they'd be so marked ... or that it mattered. I have a bottle of Ester oil, but I'm stuck deciding if I should use that or PAG oil? My new compressor shaft seal service kit came today, also Four Seasons.. System is still closed so it should be internally "clean".
Need to decide on oil to use and flush means (if flushing?). Likely will use the Ester oil, it's supposed to be tolerant of mineral oil as well as PAG oil as I read it, was developed as a cross-over oil. When I am doing the seal kit, I'll have the compressor in the basement shop, clean table top ... which means of course, it'll be emptied. I know that I'll need to put the oil in after the seal kit, then remount. Gotta research, how much Ester to add to the compressor and how much total Ester oil and R-134A. My cans of R-134A have NO oil. Looking, I have 14 cans R134A, gauges, hoses, vac pump, can taps.
I've seen some on the net, and some friends say no need to flush unless something broke like a bag in the dryer or a compressor blew up.
88.8 outside little bit ago, was a tad bit too warm to drive the truck to Wright's Dairy-Rite in Staunton ... especially for a curb service style old school supper. If I get it working ... gonna be strange having cold air drifting out the vents for a change.
It just occurred to me, I shut both valves that day too, did not even occur to me this afternoon. I took same coupling nut just a hair loose today, and retightened it with no phfffft.. Tonight a bit ago, I'm typing and watching TV, then I go to bed and my mind is like "wide awake" when it hit me about those valves. It wasn't too long ago I found the cable mal adjusted on the under hood portion of the AC box, and after setting it right, I saw the temp **** be able to go all the way to the right to cold and shutting the heater valve too For years I felt like "cold" was still some "warm" and then it started coming together. I thought my system had leaked down so last year I had removed the belt and unhooked the compressor wire for clutch. I remember the compressor would still run, but the air was warm ... but it would do that if that door was partially open to a hot heater core.
As I recall, thinking on it, a compressor shouldn't run without a charge .... right? I am now wondering if my system is maybe, possibly, still OK and workable ... if I open those valves, put the belt back on, and hook that wire up? I can recall was in early 2000s it worked, and I don't drive it much, and there was something in there the other day before I shut the two valves as I was gonna remove the compressor. Where it was venting warm air, it's much cooler now too. R-12 does not "expire", it might leak out though over time.
I won't sleep much now, but I'm gonna find out today. If it works ... I'll try to find some R-12.
Wouldn't that be a kick?
Last edited by tbear853; Jul 11, 2023 at 02:31 AM.
Reason: 3:31 AM
There is no high or low limit switches in the dent era. The compressor will run without freon. You would have to hook it up to gauges to determine if the is an actual charge left or if just residual gas. Compressor oil level is checked by measurement with a dipstick, Procedure is in shop manual or google. I don't have a way to copy or the ability to get to my manual. York compressor= aluminum Tecumseh= iron.
I'm gonna need to replace the front shaft seal at least on the compressor, I need to replace all the O-ring seals with green, I'll need a new drier, I'll need to replace or at least flush the condenser and the hoses and evaporator. I think it OK to go ahead and close off the valves at the compressor and remove the compressor to in my shop, I'll clean it up and replace that seal, put in ester oil. I think I'll secure the hoses all over the brake booster pointing downward, ends covered well, I can flush them and the evap core and exp valve, or replace as needed there / then. I might spring for 3 new barrier hoses. I can pretty easily get the condenser out to flush it, and the drier for replacing. Then, when everything is cleaned up, put all that back together, but retain use of the truck in the mean time. Once it's all back together, I can pull a vacuum on it. If it holds vacuum then,... then I'll get Roy to charge it with the R134A.
Maybe something like 10"?
