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I have a no boost when the engine is hot issue that I cant seem to pin down. Its a 2004 f250 powerstoke 6.0 with 4 inch straight pipes, new tubro, new vgt solinoid, new map and hose cleaned the turbo, exhaust back pressure tube and fitting at the manifold for the map. No codes no smoke. Checked and rechecked boots and pipes and it has no exhaust leaks.
Using torque pro to monitor the preformance
Baro, manifold pressure and ebp all read 14.6 koeo.
The truck runs perfect with 20+ pounds of boost until a little while after it reaches 185 degrees. The oil and colant are within 5 degrees of each other. Boost works under extreem acceleration but only 12 or so pounds. Off the line it has no boost. Sitting at a stop light the vgt % falls off to 15%
Im lost at what it could be. Any help or suggestions where to look next are appreciated.
2004 production year was from June of '03 to June of '04.
11/29/03 marked the change to the late '04 - which is when Ford quit installing '03 engines and began installing '04 engines.
Are you tuned by any chance?
What are IAT1 and IAT2 readings on a totally cold engine, and then on a completely warmed up engine?
2004 production year was from June of '03 to June of '04.
11/29/03 marked the change to the late '04 - which is when Ford quit installing '03 engines and began installing '04 engines.
Ok. All I know is its insanly difficult to get the correct parts.
Are you tuned by any chance?
What are IAT1 and IAT2 readings on a totally cold engine, and then on a completely warmed up engine?
They aren't methods. They are two different sensors.
One sensor is just after the air filter. For engines that have a MAF sensor, it is part of the MAF sensor. If there isn't a MAF sensor, then there is a stand-alone temperature sensor (IAT1).
The other sensor is in the intake manifold - after the charge-air-cooler.
For Torque Pro:
IA2 Sensor Intake Air Temperature 2 (Fahrenheit)
TXD: 07E02216A8
RXF: 0462051606A8
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: IA2
I do not know the "Torque Pro name" for the IAT1 sensor......maybe just intake air temperature.
They aren't methods. They are two different sensors.
One sensor is just after the air filter. For engines that have a MAF sensor, it is part of the MAF sensor. If there isn't a MAF sensor, then there is a stand-alone temperature sensor (IAT1).
The other sensor is in the intake manifold - after the charge-air-cooler.
For Torque Pro:
IA2 Sensor Intake Air Temperature 2 (Fahrenheit)
TXD: 07E02216A8
RXF: 0462051606A8
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: IA2
I do not know the "Torque Pro name" for the IAT1 sensor......maybe just intake air temperature.
Understood. Torque pro reads them as "methods" i have no data for the second but found a pid to read the intake temp in the standard pids.
my truck has a MAF so om gessing the one IAT is after the charge air cooler.
Unfortunately I had to drive so the engine is no longer cold.
This is the most aggrivating part. The problem almost seems paradoxical. I watched the pids closely on the 20+ mile round trip drive and there was no issues, minus one situation at a stop light pause where the vgt% was falling, but before it could drop to 15% I was able to go again and WOT'ed ot out of frustration and had no problems after that on this drive.
I wonder what your boost behavior would be with the EBP sensor unplugged.
As far as intake air temperatures go, IAT1 is going to be very close to the ambient air temperature. IAT2 is going to be hotter.
Next time I go out I can try running with the ebp unplugged but it reads very close to the MAP and baro sensors. Ive cleaned the tube and checked the sensor multiple times.
The IAT sensor pid does read hotter while the intake air temp pid reads close to ambient temp
My only thought about running with the EBP sensor unplugged is that it may be an aftermarket sensor. Is that possible?
With an aftermarket sensor, it would probably read atmospheric pressure ok, but it may have a different scale and because of that, it would read inaccurately as the pressure would build. Admittedly I am just "swagging"!!
My only thought about running with the EBP sensor unplugged is that it may be an aftermarket sensor. Is that possible?
With an aftermarket sensor, it would probably read atmospheric pressure ok, but it may have a different scale and because of that, it would read inaccurately as the pressure would build. Admittedly I am just "swagging"!!
Hey me too. Im 100% lost.
I dont believe it is anything other than oem, as ive never changed it. I have tried "amazon" sensors and stuff but always have to return them as they do not work and only exacerbate the problem further. It sucks but I buy oem parts.