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OP - yes. Buy that reader. It's a must have item in your garage for these trucks. Also get a Haynes manual or Chiltons. Or both. Then spend some time with the book or youtube learning how to read the KOEO and KOER codes, stored codes, clearing codes, etc. That will help you cut through the fog and know what to chase down first. Don't start chasing several things at once.
I’ll buy that reader, but I do have a Haynes book, and a ford shop manual from LMC
Here’s the video of the codes, I must’ve looked away for the second code, would the second be a 13? Or is the 4th flash a part of that code? I think it’s saying it’s done flashing because it doesn’t flash after that. It’s not a 12.
Thats the one I have been using. My diagnostic plug on my truck is under the hood on the drivers side fender well so I bought the extension cable as well. It's easier to run the tests from the drivers seat. I'm an old fat guy and running back and forth from under hood to cab was scaring the neighbors.
Thats the one I have been using. My diagnostic plug on my truck is under the hood on the drivers side fender well so I bought the extension cable as well. It's easier to run the tests from the drivers seat. I'm an old fat guy and running back and forth from under hood to cab was scaring the neighbors.
What were you running for? You don’t need to do anything other than push the TEST button to start KOEO test. If you have a 4.9L there is time to push the clutch pedal. When prompted in the KOER test walk around the door then momentarily smash the gas pedal and if applicable, turn the steering wheel and push the OD cancel switch.
I think your mileage is low but, as others have said, how you drive and short trips will affect your mileage. I got 14-15 mpg in combined city/hwy driving in my ‘89 F-150 (302, M5OD, 3.55 gears).
So, code 11, which means no codes. Then the scanner went 10 to separate to continuous memory, then it went to 11 again saying no codes. But then the C disappeared, and then it said 70. So no codes and no continuous memory codes, why the 70? And why are the readers codes different from the trucks? Did I accidentally reset the codes? I did hold the test button since the thing was taking a while.
70 according to the book that came with my reader is a car only code indicating ECM failure. Are you sure you did the test correctly? Should be no need to hold down the test button. just hit test once and let it do it's thing. The KOER test takes about 5 minutes on mine. It will display all codes detected twice. When it's done I turn the reader off and listen for it to disconnect before unplugging it from the port. Also, keep in mind you should address the KOEO codes first and get those sorted out before moving on to the KOER test.
Try this.
Remove the negative battery cable for 5 or ten minutes. Then drive the truck for a few miles to make sure it is at operating temperature. That is important.
shut the truck off and hook up your tester but do not turn it on
move the key to the on position
now turn the tester on and hit the test button once
you should hear some things clicking
After about 30 seconds to one minute it will start displaying codes
it will go through the displayed codes twice
when it has displayed all codes twice you should see either a 10, 11 or 111 that indicates that part of the test is over.
It will then display the stored codes, but you wiped those when you disconnected the battery at the beginning so it may show the 10, 11 or 111 again.
turn the tester off and shut the key off. You're done with KOEO