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I have a 1988 F-150. I did the mpg calculation and it gets 11.27 mpg. Is that normal for a 302, AOD? With most likely a 4.10 rear end? It’s 2wd. That seems low, considering I just saw someone asking about 13 mpg for a 460. But I do have 31” tires as well.
About 1/5 of the tank was on a bad alignment and tires. I’ll redo the calculation when I time it and fill it up again.
Well there is a whole lot that goes into calculating mpg. Is the speedo and odometer correct. Is the tire size correct. If not can you get a gps confirmation of miles travelled to do your calculations?
I read the tire thread and the rear axle thread. It could be possible that your dash isn't showing actual miles travelled thus throwing your mpg off a bit
I used the maps app, and a speedometer app and the speedometer app recorded the miles. I just used the map when I forgot to hit record.
It also has new plugs, cap, and rotor. I ran some amsoil Pi fuel system cleaner in it. And I have a new air filter in it I think an STP. New wix fuel filter as well.
Honestly, my 95 does not do any better than yours. I have the 302 with 3:31 gears, 4R70W tranny and the stock P235/75 tires. Mine is a standard cab short box 4x4. It's 100% bone stock and runs perfectly.
123,000 original miles on it. I think 12MPG is about as good as it gets with these things. Others may disagree.
What kind of driving are you doing? This is the biggest factor in fuel consumption.
My truck ranges from 10mpg (working hard) to 16mpg (cruising on the interstate) and usually returns between 11 and 12mpg driving around town with lots of stop and go traffic.
Run the codes on the truck. No sense going parts cannon at it. Replace what the ECM tells you it needs. Code testers are cheap, about $40. If you are really frugal you can use a paperclip to jump the terminals and do it for free (minus the cost of the paper clip)
What kind of driving are you doing? This is the biggest factor in fuel consumption.
My truck ranges from 10mpg (working hard) to 16mpg (cruising on the interstate) and usually returns between 11 and 12mpg driving around town with lots of stop and go traffic.
I did a lot of my driving on city roads. Out of the 118 miles I drove on that tank, I probably did 20-25 miles on the highway.
Run the codes on the truck. No sense going parts cannon at it. Replace what the ECM tells you it needs. Code testers are cheap, about $40. If you are really frugal you can use a paperclip to jump the terminals and do it for free (minus the cost of the paper clip)
That's pretty bad. But if someone is getting 13mpg with a 7.5l, it's pure highway driving with no load.
Start with the basics.
Check for codes. KOEO and KOER.
Check your fuel pressure.
Check your Timing.
Don't change or O2 sensor. Buy a cheap multimeter instead and spend an hour learning how to use it.
Your plugs look like you're running rich. So it may be a IAT or ECT sensor problem.
That's pretty bad. But if someone is getting 13mpg with a 7.5l, it's pure highway driving with no load.
Start with the basics.
Check for codes. KOEO and KOER.
Check your fuel pressure.
Check your Timing.
Don't change or O2 sensor. Buy a cheap multimeter instead and spend an hour learning how to use it.
Your plugs look like you're running rich. So it may be a IAT or ECT sensor problem.
I should see a code 44 according to a video I watched if I’m running rich? And the video said for KOER test to press overdrive button, I have an AOD, is that step just skipped or is there another step in place of that?
The computer won't always catch a lean or rich mixture. But the plugs don't lie. Maybe you have an exhaust leak or unmetered air that's confusing the ecu. Check for codes. I don't remember the od switch being part of the test. I remember the AC switch, the throttle jab, the brake pedal switch, and the power steering pressure switch needing to be cycled.
