Hey dudes.

did a search and couldn’t find an answer.

Have a ‘67 F250 Camper Special I’m smack dab in the middle of a resto on. Fresh 352/C6/Dana60. New brakes, suspension….etc. It appears the previous owner had the steering box rebuilt. I say that because it doesn’t leak, and has no play in the output shaft. However, I have low confidence in the rebuild. It’s always pulled to the right just a little, and has always steered right easier than left. I had a suspicion. So, when I had the I beams out for bushing/king pin replacement, before I set the truck back down in its wheels, I fired it us and sure as s**t, the truck slowly went to full right lock. I spoke with RedHeads and they mentioned that there is some sort of adjustment internally in these boxes. Anyone know WTF that adjustment is? I’ve looked at exploded views, and do see anything. I think I may end up buying the FSM for the truck and see if it’s in there.

I’ve built engines, transmissions, rear ends…etc. I was a Dodge/Chrysler heavy line tech in a former life, so not much scares me but the older I’ve become, the more informed I like to be. Any help is appreciated.

 

Welcome to FTE

1965/67 F100/350 352 came with MX Cruise-O-Matic. The C6 was first installed in 1968 F100/350 360/390, was used thru 1976 with these engines. A/T was not available with 4WD until 1973.

Bendix P/S: 1966/68 F100/250 2WD / 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number D96,001.

Ford/Saginaw P/S: 1969 F100/250 2WD & F350 from serial number D96,001 / 1970/79 F100/250 2WD & F350.

The cover of the Bendix sector shaft has an adjustable nut on it, but it only sets the preload of the sector shaft. Over tighten it, the box could lock up.

Backing the nut off may not solve the problem. It's better if you don't mess with this nut!

 

This isn’t the adjustment I’m talking about. That’s the preload/free play adjustment. It’s either adjusting spring pressure for a valve or some kind of valve adjustment inside the box. That’s why I specifically said “internally” in my post.

 

I know you said internally, but this sector shaft adjustment was the only thing I knew of, so I mentioned it. What surprises me is that Red Head Steering Gears doesn't know either.

I'm looking at the exploded view of the Bendix box, don't see anything. 'Course I was a Ford parts guy, not a mechanic.

So I suppose you'll have to find the shop manual. ebay is one place to look, faxonautolit.com is another. Their brick/mortar store is located in Riverside CA

 

This was their response.

“I forwarded this information to one of the builders who works on these Bendix steering gears, and he said that it is not a seal failure but an adjustment in the valve that needs to be readjusted. It sounds like it is a pretty finicky adjustment and may have not been done correctly if the gear was just recently overhauled by someone else.”

A rebuild is $596 for what sounds like an adjustment, and that’s the only thing wrong with the box. I’m not spending $800 with shipping for what is a good box needing an adjustment. That side of the truck was covered in thick dirt that required scraping to get it clean…..except for the PS box. It was immaculate.

I’ve been there before, I get it. Office person comes asking questions, grumpy tech says “JUST SEND IT IN!” I’m not building a $100k show truck. I’m building a nice driver. I just want it right, and I don’t want to spend $100k. It’ll add up fast if I “JUST SEND IT IN!”

 

First get a chassis manual! There is a trim screw inside that can be accessed from the outside of the box thru a plugged port. The procedure is complicated and requires a 0–20-inch lb. torque wrench and some 2000 psi pressure gauges. But it is part of the in-vehicle adjustments. But at least it can be adjusted externally unlike the Ford box that has to be dissembled to change centering shims. Good Luck!

 

This is the info I was looking for. I’m guessing if I bought the factory service manuals (3 book set I believe) that would have this adjustment procedure? I have a couple of pressure gauges that I inherited from my grandfather when he passed away, I think they’re 2500psi.

 

Yes, it should be in the shop manual, chassis section. It is in my 69 manual for sure. You can get those on CD or USB for $25-$30. I prefer the original paper books just because I'm old and they don't require electricity and you can take them anywhere. Since my truck is a modified, 65 body and frame, 71 car engine and trans, 79 F150 suspension and brakes I have accumulated a shelf full of manuals. And they have solved a lot of mysteries for me.