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I'm fairly certain that the readings were correct but its pretty tight in there an an open circuit doesn't seem...plausible? Ordered this pigtail so I should be able to tell for sure rather than trying to touch those terminals
I'm fairly certain that the readings were correct but its pretty tight in there an an open circuit doesn't seem...plausible? Ordered this pigtail so I should be able to tell for sure rather than trying to touch those terminals
Sounds like progress to me. next step would be pulling the connector off the #3 injector and testing just the solenoid or the UVCH harness for #3 and then you should know where your problem is, assuming you where able to ohm it accurately. When you do the buzz test does #3 not buzz? As mentioned above, could just be the injector pigtail connector didn't get plugged in, though you said you had this problem before new UCVH...
You might try some contact cleaner like spray DeOxIt on the suspected trouble areas of the connectors. You are taking the right steps toward a fix action.
Sounds like progress to me. next step would be pulling the connector off the #3 injector and testing just the solenoid or the UVCH harness for #3 and then you should know where your problem is, assuming you where able to ohm it accurately. When you do the buzz test does #3 not buzz? As mentioned above, could just be the injector pigtail connector didn't get plugged in, though you said you had this problem before new UCVH...
#3 buzzed quietly. So the open circuit doesn't make much sense. That's why I ordered the pigtail, just to confirm the test as it's not the easiest to get in there.
I kind of hope it is the issue though. Easy enough to find out. Harness/idm would be more of a headache I think
#3 buzzed quietly. So the open circuit doesn't make much sense. That's why I ordered the pigtail, just to confirm the test as it's not the easiest to get in there.
I kind of hope it is the issue though. Easy enough to find out. Harness/idm would be more of a headache I think
Given your codes, it's likely #3 did not buzz quietly, but what you heard was the other 7 buzzing quietly. I bet #3 is still open circuit. From the attached 7.3 quick reference guide on page 6:
"...You should hear a strong "Buzz" bouncing
from side to side for all 8 injectors. If one of the injectors doesn't "Buzz", you've found a
problem cylinder. It is important to note that when an injector fails to
"Buzz" properly, you will still hear the other 7 injectors make a faint buzz...this is a
designed function to protect the IDM..."
Given your codes, it's likely #3 did not buzz quietly, but what you heard was the other 7 buzzing quietly. I bet #3 is still open circuit. From the attached 7.3 quick reference guide on page 6:
"...You should hear a strong "Buzz" bouncing
from side to side for all 8 injectors. If one of the injectors doesn't "Buzz", you've found a
problem cylinder. It is important to note that when an injector fails to
"Buzz" properly, you will still hear the other 7 injectors make a faint buzz...this is a
designed function to protect the IDM..."
Well you're right. I put that harness on and I'm 100% certain that the circuit to #3 injector is incomplete. I kept the old uvch harness so I can manually test the injector to rule out the new uvch harness and valve cover.
Now the question is, what parts should I have on hand when I take this passenger valve cover off again? Should I put a new injector in? Solenoid only? Brands /retailers to go with? Avoid?
My intuition is telling me broken circuit means solenoid only.
I went ahead and ordered the solenoid only. Has to be the issue....
Let's recap. You installed a new Under Valve Cover Harness? Did you replace the actual valve cover gasket? Maybe others can respond, but, I seem to recall that the injector solenoids rarely fail. But, the solenoids are under $50/ea.
Let's recap. You installed a new Under Valve Cover Harness? Did you replace the actual valve cover gasket? Maybe others can respond, but, I seem to recall that the injector solenoids rarely fail. But, the solenoids are under $50/ea.
As Dan said solenoids very seldom fail. Don’t overlook possible new parts on PS being bad from the box. Suggest tuning the engine with PS valve cover off and jiggling wires.
You could swap a solenoid from another injector to #3. I would ONLY do that after making 100% sure the wiring and circuitry is intact all the way from the IDM to the injector connector. To include the gasket, UVCH, injector connector (both sides), etc...
Solenoids rarely go bad or have faults, but they do. The most recent one I can recall is capt'n jack had a solenoid shutting down the entire bank by upsetting the IDM. I thought for sure it was a UVCH issue, but he eventually found the faulty solenoid and replaced it and has been good since.
Although, we have also seen what AubieTN mentioned. Everything is fine until there is the right twist, torque, tension or current going through the circuit and that causes an intermittent issue. I am searching for an electrical gremlin in my truck now. They work when they want and don't when they don't want to. Changing or touching nothing while standing there look at the truck may make them start to work or stop to work. Thankfully it is for the hazard lights and turn signals though and people rarely use them anyway.
Let's recap. You installed a new Under Valve Cover Harness? Did you replace the actual valve cover gasket? Maybe others can respond, but, I seem to recall that the injector solenoids rarely fail. But, the solenoids are under $50/ea.
Yeah to summarize:
CEL and engine miss
Replace both uvch harness, kept old gaskets.
Problem remains after uvch/glow plug replacement
Ohm test injectors from outside of engine (ie through valve cover and new uvch) shows open circuit on cylinder 3. (Infinite resistance.)
Now, I may be wrong on this but I think the open electrical circuit could only be from one of 3 things:
CEL and engine miss
Replace both uvch harness, kept old gaskets.
Problem remains after uvch/glow plug replacement
Ohm test injectors from outside of engine (ie through valve cover and new uvch) shows open circuit on cylinder 3. (Infinite resistance.)
Now, I may be wrong on this but I think the open electrical circuit could only be from one of 3 things:
My plan is to remove valve cover, and directly test number 3 injector for resistance
Then ohm test the new solenoid through the uvch and valve cover. This should be able to isolate the problem.
In my mind this seems like a sound plan, but it feels like you guys think I'm off track?
I don't want to come off as confrontational at all, so please don't take it that way.
As Dan said, we are not taking your comments or questions as confrontational. Electrical issues are the worst! You are on the right track and we are merely offering ideas and suggestions that you may need a second look at or you may not have thought of. Again, it might be the solenoid, which is rare but it does happen. It might be poor connection or burnt pin in the gasket, it is less rare and does happen.
Just move methodically and triple check because an electrical gremlin is a stubborn SOB.
Hey, with VC off disconnect wire to plug from wiring harness to VC gasket. Then remove wire to #3 injector and check continuity between VC gasket plug and other end of injector wire. That should eliminate the wiring under the VC. You appear to be a methodical and patient person with your troubleshooting so I think you’ll win this battle.
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