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I got a new engine and I'm getting a p2614 code and no start.
new agm bats
New engine wiring harness.
new cmp sensor(tests good)
swapped ficms(still same issue).
truck cranks, Batts are new as of... 3 hours ago.
(The engine is a new crate motor from Warren diesel)
If anybody has any idea of where to go next on it.
I'm contemplating a new crankshaft position sensor but the codes aren't there. Wiring harness isn't chaffed, bent, or cracked.
What are you using for a scanner? Do you have base oil pressure? Are you running a stock oil filter and cap? Do you have fuel pressure? Are you getting injector clatter when you first turn on the ignition but before you try cranking? Can you give us details about your truck such as year? A dry engine will normally take more than a couple of attempts to start it. These engines need to fill a lot of spaces with oil before they even think about starting. B.
What are you using for a scanner? Do you have base oil pressure? Are you running a stock oil filter and cap? Do you have fuel pressure? Are you getting injector clatter when you first turn on the ignition but before you try cranking? Can you give us details about your truck such as year? A dry engine will normally take more than a couple of attempts to start it. These engines need to fill a lot of spaces with oil before they even think about starting. B.
I've only been using the sct 5015+. I will try the other scanner and see if i can get the pressure. Injector clatter with the key in the on position. Its a 2006 f250 with the bullet proof deisel external oilercooler. Have the thumper 1 hpop. Fuel pressure is set to 60 psi with the regulated return feed by the pump. Have the fuel bowl delete. I got the engine back in April of 22(warren diesel engine, psp heads, coated pistons, stage 1 cam, callie rods, running 205/100 injectors). I couldn't get it to run in may, Oct, Dec, or currently. I have continued the cranking. Filled up the truck with oil. Cranked and kept monitoring the oil level.
Oh Snap!!! Not fun. Ok, will your monitor give you HPOP PSI? Without at least 500PSI HPOP the injectors won't fire. Have you tried pulling the oil filter and using the starter wire by the vacuum pump to crank the engine and observe the oil fill rate into the oil filter housing? This will establish if you have base oil pressure and volume. B.
Oh Snap!!! Not fun. Ok, will your monitor give you HPOP PSI? Without at least 500PSI HPOP the injectors won't fire. Have you tried pulling the oil filter and using the starter wire by the vacuum pump to crank the engine and observe the oil fill rate into the oil filter housing? This will establish if you have base oil pressure and volume. B.
The monitor won't give me oil pressure. I have the bullet proof external oil cooler with the external oil filter(mounted behind my front bumper) fuel bowl and oil bowl both are gone. I'm going to pull a pcm out of another 06 and see if for what ever reason that may be my issue.
You need something other than the SCT for a scan tool.
Most likely you will waste money without access to the needed information (ie need a proper scan tool like ForScan full version, ForScan Lite, Torque Pro).
P2614 can be from a stall event or excessive cranks. It also COULD BE the cam sensor, but maybe not.
You can monitor cam/crank sync when cranking with one of the tools I have mentioned above.
At this point messing with the PCM is foolish IMO.
You need something other than the SCT for a scan tool.
Most likely you will waste money without access to the needed information (ie need a proper scan tool like ForScan full version, ForScan Lite, Torque Pro).
P2614 can be from a stall event or excessive cranks. It also COULD BE the cam sensor, but maybe not.
You can monitor cam/crank sync when cranking with one of the tools I have mentioned above.
At this point messing with the PCM is foolish IMO.
So I swapped the pcm(took maybe 5 min to pull, walk back, and install). Wasn't it... cam position sensor was replaced(driverside near power steering cause these damn things keep getting me confused on whats what). The ohms were at 801 on the sensor. Im going to borrow someone elses scan tool but it wont be here till later. At this point would it make sense to the crankshaft sensor? Doubtful, but my rpms on the dash just goes over the 0(like it says maybe 100 rpms), but my tuner is saying 175. I have minimal tools to check alot of this so I'm just trying to work with what I got in this short time.
I'd disconnect the batteries and ohm out the wires between the CMP connector and the FICM/PCM to make sure you don't have an intermittent open. Then, hook batteries back up and check for a short to power and/or short to ground. Maybe I missed it, but were your harness, CMP, etc. all OEM? If not, that would be suspect to me. Especially the CMP at only 801ohms. Test said it should be between 800 and 1000.
Attaching docs for CMP pinpoint tests for 2004 and 2005 years (I think they're the same, but 2005 should be good for 05+)...
I'd disconnect the batteries and ohm out the wires between the CMP connector and the FICM/PCM to make sure you don't have an intermittent open. Then, hook batteries back up and check for a short to power and/or short to ground. Maybe I missed it, but were your harness, CMP, etc. all OEM? If not, that would be suspect to me. Especially the CMP at only 801ohms. Test said it should be between 800 and 1000.
Attaching docs for CMP pinpoint tests for 2004 and 2005 years (I think they're the same, but 2005 should be good for 05+)...
-jokester
The senor was from oriellys, not oem, the wiring harness is also not oem. But with my oem and the old sensor I had the same code which i dont understand. Cleared them and it came back. I took the sensor off the truck to test the ohms and it was right at 801, sometimes 799... but I doubt that would be a logical reason for it to fail, it's under warranty though so maybe. I'm about to back prob the wires with the diagram you gave. Still waiting on the scan tool though lol.
All wires pinned good, code still present, no start still. Ficm no sync on both ficms. That's 2 things that point to the pcm. But i swapped pcm off an 06 with low compression. Truck still won't start. Is there a way to garage reflash a pcm. If so what's the way about it. Otherwise, I'll go to ford Monday and see if mine is bad or what the case is.
I assume that the block surface where the cam sensor attaches is free from rust or distortion (since it is a recent install of a Warren engine).
If there is no FICM SYNC while cranking the engine, then the problem is limited to the circuit illustrated below. The FICMSYNC circuit relays information from the PCM to the FICM.
• Engine Wiring Harness: FICM SYNC occurs through two circuits between the FICM and PCM. Verify engine wiring harness circuits CMPO and CKPO (EVEN THOUGH THE HARNESS IS NEW). If one of these two circuits has a short/open, FICM SYNC will not occur.
• PCM: If the PCM is not working properly, FICM SYNC may not occur.
• FICM: If the FICM is not working properly, FICM SYNC may not occur.
• CMP If the CMP signal is corrupt (electrical or mechanical), FICM SYNC may not occur.
You state that you have verified the wiring from the cam sensor to the PCM. Which wires (colors) were they and what were the test results?
I don't see where you have checked the wires between the PCM and the FICM.
With a cheap aftermarket cam sensor in the truck, then you could be creating your own problems. We have seen this before and it causes a lot of tail chasing.
To check the cam sensor WIRING ONLY (EVEN THOUGH THE HARNESS IS NEW): You can measure the resistance between the PCM engine connector pin 31, harness side and the CMP sensor pin 1, harness side; and between the PCM engine connector pin 43, harness side and the CMP sensor pin 2, harness side. Resistance on each test should be less than 5 ohms. CMP connector is C1275.
BTW - Resistance across the sensor is only one test for a cam sensor. To further check the cam sensor: You can check the red (pin 31) and orange (pin 43) wires at the PCM center connector (C1381c). Using a multimeter that reads hertz check across both wires while cranking, you should see around 1.3 Hz (between 1.1 and 1.9 Hz is acceptable). The operating range of an OEM sensor is .5 to 50 Hz.
This is not gonna be an easy find, and because you've already checked the basics, you can't assume ANYTHING! You're gonna have to follow procedures step by step to figure out where the disconnect is.
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