Yes, KC Stage 1 and delete pedestal.
Waiting on Riffraff to get their up pipes back in stock, otherwise going with BD up pipes.
Ordered Riffraff billet plenums.
Boots and clamps are brand new.

 

Well, I was more or less forced into it after I blew a hole in piston #3. Then the ol' why-don't-you-do-this-while-you-have-the-engine-out devil kicked in.

 

Did you see the new Riffraff billet pedestals? Just an idea if you haven't ordered one yet.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffr...estal-99-5-03/

 

Yeah, saw those. Pretty cool! Already ordered the cast version. Not sure the ROI is there for my build. But very nice.

 

Here is the thread that started this build.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...i-send-it.html

Truck:
2003 F350 2WD, CC, DRW, 7.3 230k miles. Is a Florida, Arizona truck so body and frame are in great shape.

Intended Use:
Wife and I are retired and will be traveling the US and Canada for months at a time. We are older and have physical issues that now prevent me from easily working on the truck on the side of the road.
Towing 40ft Raptor Toy Hauler maxed out is about 17k lbs.
[color=#222222]We live in AZ and regularly tow the Rockies, Cali mountains, and AZ/NM Mountains.

Engine Long Block:
J&K engine https://jandkengineremanufacturing.c...diesel-engines

• All 8 cylinders sleeved
• Ford forged rods
• New rocker assemblies
• Smith Brothers push rods
• Comp 910 valve springs
• Diesel Site head studs
• Ford Head Gaskets
• 12 mo unlimited miles warranty

Engine Build Out Parts: All new parts, Ford stock parts and gaskets, 95% from Riffraff https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/

• Billet intake plenums
• All new boots and clamps
• CTS 3 monitor
• NEW Alliant AC code 160, stock nozzle, single shot injectors
• All new Ford sensors
  • IPR
  • ICP
  • EOP
  • EOT
  • MAP
  • MAT
• Ford Oil Cooler and Ford seal kit
• Melling low pressure oil pump
• NEW Bosch HPOP
• All fuel lines are Riffraff SS braided lines
• Riffraff FRx
• Riffraff Banjo Bolts
• Riffraff Non-EBPV (delete) cast turbo pedestal
• KC Stage 1 Turbo
• Hydra tunes to support new build (not sure who's tunes I will get yet)
• Mishimoto
  • Radiator
  • Transmission cooler
  • Intercooler
• Riffraff CCV mod kit
• Ford Water Pump
• New Ford oil pan
• Riffraff Coolant filter
• Riffraff HPOP bolt access cover

The only parts I am using off the old engine:

• Fuel bowl with 60psi spring and billet cap
• Engine front cover (w/ new bolts)
• Valve covers
• HPOP reservoir and cap

Transmission: https://www.brianstruckshop.com/

• BTS (Brian's Truck Shop) rebuild of my unit
• Built to use....heavy tow and longevity

I wanted to get as close to a brand new engine as possible. I feel this is as close as I can get. I believe this engine build and the BTS transmission will be better than when it rolled off the showroom floor in 2003.

I will follow up on this thread as the build progress, install, initial start and drive impressions, and then at milestone mileages and tow impressions/results. My hope is this will help provide feedback (positive and negative) on the engine builder, installed parts, tunes, tranny and the combination as a whole to help others searching for information as they look to build there own.

First arrival was my KC Stage 1 turbo....because they are just up the road in Casa Grande, AZ (about 40 mins from my house in Tucson).

So, until next time, keep the Powerstroke passion flowing!

 

Should be a good setup. One of those mods I would personally skip is the ccv mod. I would just leave it factory.

 

Just out of curiosity, was a newer truck (such as a 6.7) ever considered? I'm assuming you've crunched the numbers and I would imagine "rebuilding" a 7.3 like you plan to do is still far cheaper than a 6.7.

 

Yes, post #6 on the link I posted at the top of this posting answers someone else asking that question.

 

Check engine cover for scarring on oil pump surface before you reuse.

If you're building an engine coolant filter is kinda pointless imo. The engine will be clean and you'll be using long life coolant.

I'd say only consider replacing the intercooler if yours has plastic tanks. Even then idk that you'd make enough boost to blow them off?

Only CCV mod worth doing is one using a Racor filter. Otherwise just leave it stock.

If your old oil pan doesn't have a hole or something, might be better investment to have it cleaned, weld in dipstick adapter, and paint in urethane paint vs buying a new one.

Banjo bolts don't offer a tangible benefit iirc.

Why a non-EBPV pedestal? If you're towing heavy and have done up your springs, engine braking would be pretty useful.

 

All of this ^^^

 

@Y2KW57 would be able to merge this thread with your original if you so desire. In any case, yours is an impressive build list. If you are truly set on having a coolant filter after what PriusLover said above (I kept mine after building out my engine), have you considered the IH water pump with the integrated filter mount? It saves a lot of plumbing and space.
https://www.dieselsite.com/1996-2003...antfilter.aspx

 

I recently received a set of CNC Fab 4 Line fuel feed. They look they will make a nice clean install. I'm in the process of removing an old ITP Regulated return. I went with these CNC lines and then bought the various items from Riffraff to return to the OEM fuel pressure regulator.

Go with the weld in dipstick adapter. And as mentioned if you are staying with a GTP38 variant, mounted in OEM fashion, and you are building for tow purposes...then the exhaust braking feature would be a nice addition.