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Need water pump replacement instructions

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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 10:00 AM
  #1  
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Need water pump replacement instructions

Hello everyone. New member here. I'm searching for some thorough instructions for replacing the water pump in my 1991 Ford F250 big block 460 engine with about 110k miles. Engine started throwing coolant from under the pump altho my wife was driving and I never saw it.

I don't have a manual but I'm fairly comfortable with auto repair.

I've pulled the water pump and I'm preparing the surfaces. I plan to replace the pump, belts, thermostat and some hoses. I think I kept the bolts organized as I removed them, because no two seem to be the same length. I don't plan to get into the timing cover.

Where can I find some good instructions for his job?

How specifically do I coat the bolts to prevent coolant leak thru the bolt holes?

My bolts had a fair amount of rust but I cleaned them up and the threads look ok. How important is it to swap out the bolts?

Which permantex should I use - gray or black?

I understand there's a backing plate. Do I HAVE to replace that, or can I go with the old one?

What's the situation with gaskets? Do I need one or two (each side of the backing plate)?

Any other tips?? Thanks in advance.
 

Last edited by rallison203; Apr 2, 2023 at 10:13 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 11:06 AM
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My two cents is that if there is a gasket, then there is no sealer. If there is sealer, there is no gasket. There are exceptions, but those are exceptions, not the rule.

Never ever use sealer on O rings. I usually use silicone grease. Rubber O rings are usually used where two items may have movement. The soft rubber will provide a seal with that movement. If you use sealer, then you ruin that seal.

I have found people that use gaskets and sealers either have no confidence in the gasket sealing surface or they are too lazy to prep the surface correctly. Again, there are exceptions because sometimes to get the right surface prep, you are going to spend thousands to do it right.

There are gasket adhesives that help hold the gasket in place. Understandable when trying to work on stuff in a car.

One other tip. The sealer that does ooze out is wasted sealer and makes you work look like it was done by a butcher. Anything that oozes out is too much. There should just be a very slight amount, barely noticeable.

You will find there are a lot of different opinions but when it comes down to it, what does the factory do? One or the other but rarely both.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 12:18 PM
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See picture in step 6.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...er-pump-360074

enough sealer for 3 or 4 water pumps was used.

I am like 1Butcher, If there is a gasket no sealer. I will use just a dab of 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold gasket in place to get a couple bolts started to hold it up in place.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 01:16 PM
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Ok so I shouldn't use too much gasket sealant.

Thanks for the link to the instructions. However those are for 2004 forward. Anybody have a link to instructions for a '91?

Can anybody answer my other questions?
 

Last edited by rallison203; Apr 2, 2023 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 02:16 PM
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The link was to show you about the sealant not the water pump removal.

Here you a link to WP removal

 
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 05:09 PM
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You do not have to replace backing plate if it is not rusted & pitted too much.

Wire brush, sand blast, evaporust, electrolysis, etc, what ever your favorite rust removal tool & a good coat of automotive paint.

If it is making big flakes, start sourcing a replacement.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 05:13 PM
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Thanks toolman60. The pump is already out.

I guess my main question is about this backing plate.

I ordered a Gates WP from Amazon. I believe it comes with ONE gasket. However it looks like the factory water pump used TWO gaskets - one on either side of the backing plate. So I need another one? Does anybody have experience with this engine?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 05:16 PM
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Thanks scndsin, I was writing when you responded.

My thoughts exactly. I'll clean it up and reuse it.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 06:41 PM
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I was mistaken. The new water pump comes with both gaskets. So I'll reuse the backing plate and figure out the sealant situation.

Does anybody have the torque specs for water pump reassembly, 1991 F250 460 engine? I think that's about all I'm going to need.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 01:16 PM
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91 7.5 water pump bolts 15-25 lbs (use 25)
I use liquid teflon thread sealer even on the dry bolts
Use gasket adhesive and glue the gaskets to the pump
Leave the block front cover dry, with no glue or sealer
That way, next time you won't have to scrape so much gasket
 
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 01:39 PM
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Thanks 007. With that info I think I have everything I need.

Strangely, there was no play in my old water pump shaft, so I was perplexed until I examined it closely. The inner seal on the shaft, below the impeller, was completely twisted and partially missing.

Here's what I think happened. I had some leaking hose clamps which lost coolant and introduced air into the cooling system. This broke the siphon between the rad and the coolant bottle. So while I thought I was topping up the radiator, I was only topping up the bottle. My coolant ran low and I cooked the water pump shaft seal.

My first clue was that the heater core started gurgling. It was working fine previously, so I figured it probably wasn't plugged but rather low on coolant. Yep.

I think I got lucky and didn't warp the heads, as it still runs fine.
 

Last edited by rallison203; Apr 3, 2023 at 05:43 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 01:40 PM
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The waterpump seals go before the bearings fail and send the fan out the hood
Damn common to be just topping off the bottle, good job finding the real issue
 
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Old Apr 4, 2023 | 01:24 PM
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Thanks for that. Now - about coating the bolts.

The internet says Ford big block WP bolts will leak coolant if they aren't coated.

Some say to wrap the threads with Teflon tape. What about coating the shaft? Should I use Teflon pipe dope or tape, or use regular old RTV or Indian head shellac or permantex or what??

I also read that the only bolts at issue are the 4 longer ones. True? Or should I coat all of them?

 
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Old Apr 4, 2023 | 01:48 PM
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Or what about aluminum anti seize, since the bolts usually corrode against the aluminum timing cover?

Some say you don't use anti seize. Some say you do. Opinions are all over the board.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2023 | 01:52 PM
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I bought Permatex anti seize. It’s in a bottle for $10. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ti+seize&pos=0
Someone I known uses this stuff and says it works good.
 
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