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That's like asking what brand of oil to use. The best way is the way you like. Most of us rarely replace a coolant pump twice on the same engine. Except when you buy the cheap parts.
Different metals react to each other differently. Some places in the world have more rust issues too.
Not yet, I’m currently dealing with one of the bolts broken in the timing cover just haven’t had time to do it. But I will use it on the bolts when I install the pump.
I use nickel anti seize on everything that screws or bolts on the outside of the block.
Will never use anything but stainless on something I plan on keeping, particularly the water pump-TC area.
My next 2 small blocks I'm using SS 5/16 all thread made into studs & SS flange head nuts for the 4 holes, 2 passages that pass coolant to pump to block through timing cover
I'm a big "belt & suspenders" kinda' guy. I use silicone (very light finger spread, BOTH sides) & Felpro gaskets.
* Which WP bolts need sealant to prevent leaks?
* What type (not brand) of sealant is recommended?
* And where on the bolt would you apply the sealant (threads, shaft, head, or combo)?
Liquid teflon not tape
On the threads only
Sure you do not need to coat the threads on the ones that do not go into the coolant
Do it anyway so you do not break the bolts next time
Liquid teflon pipe and thread sealer is the type
You are way overthinking this!
Liquid teflon not tape
On the threads only
Sure you do not need to coat the threads on the ones that do not go into the coolant
Do it anyway so you do not break the bolts next time
Liquid teflon pipe and thread sealer is the type
You are way overthinking this!
Thank you.
Ha, yes, maybe so. I just don't like doing things twice.
I got the timing cover cleaned up, new water pump and lower pump hose installed, and the bolts in and coated. That was a bear. Tomorrow I'll finish up.
Here's a piece of advice for anyone changing the pump on this engine. About 5 or 6 of the long bolts pass through the timing cover, and thread into the block. Altho you can't see it, the deep female threads will have a ton of rust on them. PBB and compressed air won't clean them up. I twisted 5 pipe cleaners together, dunked them in solvent and scrubbed each hole about 4 times before they were finally clean enough.
The backing plate cleaned up nicely, so I primed and painted it. I couldn't decide on whether to use sealant so I checked with Gates. Their tech report says no sealant. So that's what I did, except for some small pitted areas on the timing cover mating surface.
Everything looks good so far but I'll be amazed if the timing cover to block gasket doesn't leak. The one they say might leak if you don't pull the timing cover as part of this job, which I decided not to do. Speaking of doing things twice.
Last edited by rallison203; Apr 5, 2023 at 07:02 PM.
Ok this has been bugging me so I need to ask, please.
I installed the WP backing plate with the concave side facing the impeller. In other words, the bulge on the assembled pump is facing away from the impeller, and towards the timing cover as installed.
That's the correct assembly, right? You actually can't mount this plate backwards, right??
I painted the water pump, cleaned all threads, painted and coated all the bolts, installed a 195 thermostat, installed new belts and hoses, reassembled everything without gasket sealant, and torqued the WP and thermostat housing bolts to spec. No leaks, looks great. All for under $100.
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