Hi ya'll,

So last night, got home and most of my coolant had sprayed all over and under my motor.

Couldn't see any popped hoses, checked the coolant level.. 1/2 full (half empty).. Put the ir thermometer on it and it hadn't run hot.

Started it up and some lite grinding noise, visible wable on WP pulley, I assume it dumped a front bushing and leaked out from the shaft probably.

Cut it off, and can wable the fan and it's pulley quite a bit, so the WP shaft has got to be loose. Bolts from pulley and clutch look tight.

So, at least only dumped half of the coolant, and no overheating. This pump gone many many miles trouble free, so I can't complain.

Looking at Ac Delco 252-631 pro series water pump 60$ ..

any good - bad experience with pump brands for our trucks?

Any tips on repair? does the IP gear cover come off, any tricky long - short bolts to watch for? Dry threads and some with Rtv? Use gasket that comes with the kit and plugs from the old pump?

Haven't had to replace the water pump yet, so this is new territory. Thanks

 

Here's genescripter's write up on R&R of the IDI water pump. I haven't had to do this yet but I would start here. Good luck!

Which bolts to Permatex on a 6.9 / 7.3 IDI Waterpump? ? IDI Online

 

I went with a Napa, so far so good? I wouldn't hesitate to go with anything name brand

 

Thanks O64 - DOC, for the replies.

Any reputable brand will be fine for this one, so I just went ahead and ordered that AC D pump mentioned above.

Now on the pics of the pump on Genscripters' website, says 'permatex blue' on those 4 mounting bolts, can someone confirm this gets threadlocker and not RTV..

I was just looking for my threadlocker just today to tighten up bolts that constantly vibrate out of my McCulloch chainsaw.. Replaced 2 bolts, then another fell out.

But I have been cutting down huge and many hardwoods for 2 weeks, maple oak and hickory x at least 50 and all 12-40 in at the stump. so I guess a few 50c bolts is a cheap price to pay for all this action, but I just wish I could find my threadlocker so I can keep them in there.

So anyway back to the water pump, blue threadlocker that I always somehow loose or black RTV?

Thanks

 

Use permatex, according to the Official Ford Service Manual. That's where I got all my info for my tutorials. Also, after seeing the back side of the front plate and those welded nuts, I would use permatex so that it fills in any potential gaps in the threads so that you don't get coolant in the crankcase. Threadlocker might work ok, but I'd be worried it would be too thin to fully fill in the gaps on the threads.

 

Yes, but regardless of that permatex is the brand.

Your recommendation is RTV and not Threadlocker right, just double checking. Thanks..

Also, I have a large tube of RTV that I didn't yet mislocate, so that would be great.

 

I always use Permatex Thread Sealant in these situations. No doubt that it's doing what it's meant to. It also doesn't dry out/glue and leave a mess in the threads for the next time. Since it doesn't dry out I've had the same small tube for 5+ years and it's still good unlike threadlocker or rtv.

 

The permatex there talking about is probably some type of anerobic sealant, it sets up when the presence of air disappears, if you don't have any of that stuff I would just use rtv, it will serve the same function..

And I'm surprised that McCulloch hasn't rattle you loose yet! Just kidding, great saws

 

Ah ha.. Gotcha, thanks for clearing that up, I have some rectorseal5 Thread Sealant, in with my plumbing tools and pipe dopes, and I even know where it's at, thanks!

Thanks everyone for contributing, it's supposed to be arriving tomorrow, if fedex guesses right, I love fedex- they're so fast and deliver to my door. We'll see if they can get it here so fast via ground from NY idk.

Oh yes, my Pro Mac is a hoss. Kind of like the IDI of chainsaws IMO. Under appreciated, super loudest thing ever, and not really comfortable most of the time it's so heavy. But they don't make saws of solid metal like they used to, and I value dependable and durable over comfort because the job needs done, but no ear muffs and you'd be deff fast, seriously no muffler stock.

 

It doesn't look like that stuff is rated for oil/coolant. Make sure what you use is automotive rated.

 

Amen to that, I wish everything was still metal, including the dash in my 85, but seriously, I'm sure you've taken that muffler apart as I have and noticed there's no baffles in it. It's just hollow

 

I just now looked up the specs on that rectorseal and it looks good for this application. I use it on large gas fittings, so concerned about it being fuel rated but it is, gasoline, diesel, natural gas, even acids alcohol ect ect all listed as good applications. Looks like it will do for this type of plugging a fuel/coolant leaky thread in iron substrate.

Yep no baffles just a screen to keep out wood chips and dirt, but it must be removed to prevent carbon buildup and eventual piston scoring, so even the screen gotta go. It in jests an barks out all kinds off stuff.

Even dumped it 15 feet into soft mud from a tree I had climbed the other day for a cut. Wind shifted bad direction in the cut, running saw flew, while I took a jump right. I knew it was possible so I always have a felling escape route. But really didn't want to jump from that height, but we both made it unscathed. The treetop did however also clip the power lines and the whole lines bent and sparked like a slinky, but didn't break the lines either.. Me, saw, and power lines all made it okay, many many big dangerous trees near the utility, 1 in 50 accident is not unexpected just happy I landed right.

 

Update :

New water pump has arrived: thank you fedex man, guys are unbelievably fast.

Extraordinary pleased with the quality of this unit, it is new and not remanufactured.

Looks very well built of quality materials and the shaft is tight as a tick, no play and looks like tight tolerance on the impeller.

Unit assembled in USA of components mfg'd in CHINA USA AND MEXICO.

gasket USA manufactured.

Casting is razor straight, looks very nice.

If you are looking for a replacement water pump I will feel comfortable recommending this unit.
AC DELCO 252-631.

 

Im thinking there is something with the top two short bolts. Theres a washer, or if you mix them up, they can go into the IP gear. I cant remember what exactly, but im sure theres something.

 

Yep, it came with 2 extra bolts and a warning to make sure to change them if the housing was shorter. But it was the same size, so I used the OEM bolts, the 2 spare washers however came in handy, as the last person to install it omitted two of them.

Pretty easy job, it went smooth. She's back, no more dumping coolant everywhere, it was the shaft, it had worked loose from age.

Thankfully I have an oxy acetylene torch and know how to use it. Simply warmed up the mega bolt and a clockwise strike gets her right to moving. And likewise warmed it again to tighten it down when putting it back together so it doesn't fly off there.

One note about that particular pump, it wasn't recessed properly in one hole to the alt bracket. Had to use the the cutting torch and notch the bracket a little, no big deal, but just saying be aware might have to cut a little to make that one fit.

Took 5 hrs alltogether and 3/10 on the pita o-meter.. Not bad. Happy Easter