Anyone have a master cylinder cap for a 1983 master cylinder? Have repaired the front brake lines and need to make an adapter for a power bleeder. Please respond here or message me.
Chuck

 

Here's one. They give the measurements so you can see if it fits.

 

Look for Mr. Gasket #5274:

https://www.holley.com/products/brak...ter/parts/5274




More details about pressure bleeding here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bleeding.html

 

My home made pressure bleeder pot

and the cap

I need to add a valve at the cap because the hose from the pot to the master / cap is full of fluid and when you remove the cap it drains all over everything
Also if you look at the cap you will see I used JB Weld to seal the vent, other wise fluid will spray out of it dont ask how I know

That is a screw in tire valve stem with the guts removed.
The hose from the pot gets put on it and a clamp to keep it tight.
Dave ----

 

How about mounting a bleed screw next to the fluid in port? That way you could shut off the air and release pressure on the master cylinder. Maybe connect a turkey baster to it to pull out some fluid.
Chuck

 

Right now I have a valve at the bottom of the pot to close off fluid and 1 at the air in for the air shut off.
Once the air is off I can undo the air hose and then open the air valve to release pressure on the pot.

But I still have 6 foot of hose with fluid in it to the cap.
If I can close off fluid at the cap then I only have to deal with a little fluid from that lower valve and what ever is under the cap.
Note because the tire valve is at the top of the cap that void between the master upper edge and the cap is also filled with fluid.

The only other way not to make too big a mess is to get a normal pressure bleeder cap that I think is flat and held on with chain straps, eye bolts and wing nuts to get it tight. The gasket only run around the outer edge of the master leaving the center open for fluid to pass to each side of the master.

To tell you the only time I have used this bleeder is on my truck and the full brake system was drained for years as I was rebuilding it.
Even after doing everything to bleed the system and this pressure bleeder the pedal was still not great.
About a year later I had to replace wrong Ebrake cables and when I went to hit the brake pedal it went to the floor?
I never had the system open but I tried bleeding and no matter what I did nothing got the pedal up?

At that point I replaced the master with new not rebuilt, it was only a few years old as was the booster, and the pedal has been great ever since.
I think the remanf master that came with the booster was bad from the start?
Dave ----

 

Got a master cylinder cap this morning for a reasonable price from a local guy with a few parts trucks. Still trying to come up with a 'no mess' plan to remove some of the fluid from the mc after bleeding.
Chuck

 

As I pointed out if you have a valve at the cap then you only have from the valve down to the master.
Easy part would be to pop a bleeder open on the front & rear of the system to drain that fluid out before removing the cap.

Because my valve is at the pot I would need to bleed out the line from the pot to master also, a lot of fluid.
Dave ----

 

I agree. Valve at the MC cap.
Chuck