Is it best to install one that is rated as closely to your trailer and tow vehicles specs on your bumper pull?
Is their any reason to install one that exceeds your need?
Example if a 10k rated system is over you max trailer weight of 8k trailer and payload is under your trucks max weight, would a 12k offer any more safety?
Would it possibly make your ride stiffer even?

 

I've read that configuring a WDH that is over-spec'd can be problematic. But I read that on the Internet, so....

 

My WDH bars are 1200's and my tongue weight is under 900. I've had the same set-up for 8 years and it works........Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but

 

I did so more looking around, from what I gather you want to get as close to your spec as possible. Going way over size will cause unneeded stress on axles and tires and effect your ride

 

^^^Agreed^^^

 

Per your other post, 800# tongue weight, and now you are with a 1000/10000 # wdh system. IMO, that is perfect.

 

I was told by multiple members of a TT forum I’m on that I should use 1000 lb bars for my tongue weight of 1000 lbs. I cranked on the smaller bars all the way and saw on the CAT scale that very little weight was being transferred to the front of my Excursion.
On to the 1400 lb bars.

 

What system ??

 

ProPride. 28’ Airstream Flying Cloud.

 

I have an Outdoors RV 24RKS.,... GVWR of 9,995 lbs. Ready to travel the trailer weighs 9,100 lbs with a tongue weight of 1,300 lbs. CAT Scale weights. I transferred our old Equalizer 4PT , which is 1000/10000, to the new trailer. Dealer said it would work fine... Used that size for all these trailers.
It didn't tow well (TV is 2022 F350) so I sent Equalizer an email asking for advice. They said that I should go with the 1,400/14,000 WDH setup. This being based on the 1,300 tongue weight (Outdoors RV's are usually very tongue heavy).

 

I'm not certain, just tossing this out there.....
The axle placement on the trailer will determine how you address the displacing of tongue weight.
Looking at your trailer, and its axles, they are placed well back of the center fulcrum of the trailer, much like my current trailer.
My last trailer had spread axles directly centered under it, and like a teeter-totter displacing weight quickly front or back it was easy to level the trailer.
Depending on floor plan you might not be able to put much additional weight behind your axles to help raise the front of it?
And I am thinking with the axles being further back, it takes more of a "upward" load or a stronger WDH to raise it, which then might make your front axle on the TV carry too much?

 

I tend to agree with the others. 1,000/10,000 WDH for a 8,000 pound trailer would be good. I might want go to a 1,200/12,000 on that, depending on how much it allowed tension adjustment, but I wouldn't NEED to. Much stronger and you risk a lot of other issues with handling and damage. Besides wheel/tire/suspension issues, I've seen a couple of fractured tongues that were on highly overrated WDH systems, like bars rated for a 30,000 pound trailer yanking down on the tongue of a trailer like yours over every bump.

 

I understand how the WDH works, however, I am also thinking it might be like putting a band aid on a gaping wound instead of getting stitches.
What I mean by that is thinking you can push a marginal TV to a safer range or cushion.
That weight is still there, it went nowhere, so if you are pushing the limits, you still are....it didn't disappear, right?

 

That might get the weight-rating wars started again LOL!

A WDH is a good thing to add, and will increase stability etc. Having a WDH rated for the next increment above the actual trailer's tongue and towed weights is a good idea, next increment up is a little margin, and proportionately less stressful on the hitch.

Going to a WDH that is extremely higher rated, like say a 3,000/30,000 pound WDH on your trailer, will be hard on everything except the WDH. Get it adjusted so the overall assembly ends up exactly where a 1,000/10,000 WDH had it and that's fine while parked. The issue is that while moving, every motion that attempts to push the ball down would result in much stronger WDH pulling down on the tongue of the trailer and the front of the receiver assembly (therefore the front of the TV and the trailer axles). That's where the trouble starts. Bars for a 1,000/10,000 WDH will react a lot more delicately than bars for a 3,000/30/000 WDH.

You're right though, no amount of increased-capacity WDH over what is necessary will make the load lighter for a TV with ratings marginal or under the load. If the TV is rated for 600/6,000 and you hitch a 800/8,000 trailer using a 1,400/14,000 WDH, the TV will still be overloaded and the drive will likely go badly.