I was looking for flange nuts in Mcmaster-carr this morning but did not find any. en I searched google and found lots of 22mm Honda nuts like the one you, klawockvet, ordered. I also found a Honda flange nut. It has eight threads while the lock nut has six. I think more threads are better. I also think the lock nut you ordered will work quite well with the flat washer because you had about 10 1/2 threads showng on your first pics and that should leave maybe two threads beyond the nut when it is torqued down. By the way, I thought 225 lbs torque was maybe too much because the shaft threads are not heat treated and the nut only has about six threads. The nut that came with the kit is class 8. I didn't try to find a comparison of class 8 to grade hardness but my guess is that class 8 is close to grade 5. Could be wrong there. I do concur on the thread size of 22mm x 1.5. Adding to this post: I thought of machining a little, maybe 2 or 3mm, off of the PA as well, as a last resort. How thick is that John Deere washer? Please post an update when you get the locknut installed. Thanks.

 

If you really wanted to you could use an appropriately shaped file to deepen the splines .

 

I wonder how long that would take?? My patience is already gone as I should have had the simple part of the project done a couple of days ago. I'm quite angry at CPP for turning out an unsafe product that would only require making the machinist do the work correctly. I will eventually get it together where it will be safe. I have done all that I can do for now and will work on making a 0.75 spacer plate to replace the hoaky individual spacers that would eventually stress the frame. I should have that done when the Honda nut gets delivered along with the thickened grand 8 washers from McMaster Carr. When those are delivered I will machine everything to fit and will post pictures of how I fix this POS. Unfortunately there is no warm fuzzy feeling on my part that the box itself will work properly. All I can do is hope.

 

I didn't have a problem with mine .
But i'm not entirely sure it's a CPP box , as it is slightly different where the mounting plate bolts to the steering box .
The problem i'm having with mine is the power assistance fails once the fluid warms up .
Once it's cooled down it's fine again .
So i'm looking to install a cooler and see if it helps .

 

I filed the splines on the PA to remove some of the paint and on the shaft to deburr the splines. The file I used was entirely too small to make much difference. I may have gotten another 1/2 thread further on the shaft, by hand, by filing the splines. That was all the effort that I was willing to put in with the file.

 

I do not think there is another steering assist that uses the modified PA so, It probably is a CCP unit or a toyota unit. If so, I'm happy to see you have ample threads but none too happy about the possible overheating. Did you buy the truck with the power steering unit already installed? Please keep us posted on the cooler.

 

I bought the kit from ebay and fitted it myself , and only a couple of weeks ago .
I know it's not a toyota box as they mount differently , and i do have one of those under the bench , but a RHD version .
This is the one i fitted , but it does have differences from the CPP box .

 

My truck came with a stock steering. I have owned a half dozen mid fifties F100's over the years. When I was younger I never even considered needing power steering. Then I got old and used a ram system a couple of times and that was all I needed. I went down this path thinking I was doing something prudent. I'm slowly making the modifications to make it work and be safe and to spec. Yesterday I went to the scrap yard and got a piece of 3/4 plate. I brought it home and used a 1.5" hole saw to cut a large hole in the center. That is a bit larger than the stock Ford hole in the frame. Then I clamped it to the inside of the frame and centered the holes for the bolts with a 7/16 drill. I pulled the plate back off and drilled out the holes on the drill press. Then I picked up some grade 8 bolts that were the proper length and mounted the box to the frame. No more funky spacers. The new bolts now have proper washers on all sides and there are 3 plus threads showing. That's progress. Next step is milling the Pitman arm. A little was good but I still need more. Time ran out and I've got to fly out in the morning. I hope the lock nut will be here when I return. I think I will mill another .030 off the face of the PA when I get back. I hope all this is going to be worth the effort but it wouldn't surprise me if the CPP box turns out to be a POS.


0.750 x 4.5 x 8" steel plate. Drilled and ready to replace the frame bending spacers supplied with the kit. Only cost $8.00 at the local scrap yard. Well worth the cost to save the frame.

 

I have a response from the engineer at Classic Performance Products regarding the situation. I seriously wonder how he became an engineer.
His response:
I have forwarded the info you provided to our engineer. The first three threads of engagement between the nut and shaft are what keep the assembly tight. Threads past the nut do not have an effect on the assembly. If the nut is tight, the pitman arm will never get loose. If you say you are putting 200 ft. lbs. on that nut, it will not come loose.

 

Watching this thread with a great deal of interest...I ordered this same kit through Mid-Fifty and am now just waiting.

I've been a long-time customer of Mid-Fifty and have always been very pleased in the past, but my two most recent experiences with them, both with CPP products, left much to be desired...both from Mid-Fifty and from CPP. Not worth going into, but from my POV as a customer it's probably time for me to look elsewhere.

I'm glad to hear that you had good results with the ram system- I may go that route instead.

 

Klawockvet
I like the spacer. It's definitely an improvment. I have some 3/4 alum plate that I wish I could use for a spacer but won't. I hope to find a piece of 3/4 scrap steel plate somewhere. Good work on the spacer plate.

Seaves46
Your PS unit is similar to the CCP unit. The adapter plate looks the same as the CCP unit. Can you supply any more info on your unit?

Thanks all

 

I made a spacer, as well, from a piece of 3/4 HRS. I also made a drawing for anyone wanting to make a spacer plate. I was a little slow getting back to this post.

Spacer plate matches the CPP mounting plate.