Steering disassembly
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Southern NH
Steering disassembly
Still taking the Truck apart - 3 years into it. Have a question with the steering box. The Steering Sector SHAFT (7RC 3575) goes thru the steering box and extends thru the hole in the chassis. The Steering Gear Sector Shaft ARM (8C 3590) is pressed onto the shaft which is knurled and appears to be tapered. After I removed the nut and lockwasher, I can not get the ARM to break free from the tapered knurl. How much pressure can I apply between the chassis and the ARM without damaging anything in the Steering Box. Have been applyingg PB Blaster and tapping for the past 3 days. Do I have to use Heat? Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,765
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From: Kalispell, MT
Steering disassembly
They make a pitman arm puller that works on the same principle as a jawed gear puller. Local parts store
I used a pickle fork on mine, but I knew the gearbox was shot and in need of rebuilding.
Moderate heat is ok. I wouldn't get carried away. If I remember right the shaft is also splined.
I used a pickle fork on mine, but I knew the gearbox was shot and in need of rebuilding.
Moderate heat is ok. I wouldn't get carried away. If I remember right the shaft is also splined.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
Steering disassembly
Good deal. You got it off then? Are you rebuilding the box? You've been at that 3 years now ? I don't feel so bad. I got 6 months into mine and the wife decided to remodle the house. Haven't turned a wrench on it for 6 months but I told her this weekend I'm going to redo the box on mine.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Steering disassembly
a pitman puller is the best way to go I just had to take mine out and apart boy what fun that was
I tried a bfh but just suceed in screwing up the threads and yes it is splined and it has 3 blind splines it only goes on one way
make sure you get a few extra gaskets so you can adjust the preload on the taper barings
I tried a bfh but just suceed in screwing up the threads and yes it is splined and it has 3 blind splines it only goes on one way
make sure you get a few extra gaskets so you can adjust the preload on the taper barings
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Southern NH
Steering disassembly
Thanks guys, I'll try the Pitman Arm Puller this week and get back with whatever happens.
Yes, 3 years to disassemble. But it is a retirement project and I told my wife she would not see anything on the road for 5 years. Hope I'm still on schedule.
Yes, 3 years to disassemble. But it is a retirement project and I told my wife she would not see anything on the road for 5 years. Hope I'm still on schedule.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,765
Likes: 547
From: Kalispell, MT
Steering disassembly
I should have included why you should never use a pickle fork on the pitman arm. When the box is rebuilt you'll note the sector roller starts out on the engine side of the worm gear. As additional adjustments are needed for wear, you turn the sector roller into the worm until (after enough adjustments) it passes the high point of the worm gear and you have to rebuild the gearbox again.
Using a pickle fork to remove the pitman arm will jam the sector roller into the worm gear, possibly damaging one or both.
Using a pickle fork to remove the pitman arm will jam the sector roller into the worm gear, possibly damaging one or both.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Steering disassembly
In the last year and half I have removed four pitman arms from parts trucks, one this last weekend and one in the next week or so. I used a torch and heated the collar up and used a pry bar and the arm just pops off. It does't seem to hurt, it's better than hammering the heck out of it or prying like a mad man and throwing everything out of shape. I used this technique on my F-2 over six years ago without any ill effects. I could be wrong though, but it works for me.
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Waynesville, OH
Steering disassembly
Hi Bob,
Although I haven't used heat very often to remove pressed (or rusted
) on items, I know it's a standard method and works very well. The only concern I'd have on the pitman arm is that there is an oil seal on the shaft, just inboard of the arm.
A little care, as Tim suggested, in keeping the temperature reasonable would probably avoid too much damage to the seal. You've got plenty of experience and know the right amount of torch action to use, but some of us are kinda knuckleheaded about that stuff, so we need a reminder once in a while to take it easy with the flame wrench.
Although I haven't used heat very often to remove pressed (or rusted
) on items, I know it's a standard method and works very well. The only concern I'd have on the pitman arm is that there is an oil seal on the shaft, just inboard of the arm.A little care, as Tim suggested, in keeping the temperature reasonable would probably avoid too much damage to the seal. You've got plenty of experience and know the right amount of torch action to use, but some of us are kinda knuckleheaded about that stuff, so we need a reminder once in a while to take it easy with the flame wrench.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Southern NH
Well, I'm a Happy Camper. After soaking it all week with PB Blaster, I put the puller on it and tightened down on the screw. I didn't have to hit it, just continued tightening and it slid off nice and easy. Took the steering box down in the cellar, cleaned it with wire brush and put on a coat of POR 15. Looks new. Thanks for all the help.
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