Electrical issues
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,831
Likes: 4,096
From: Angier, NC
So you were able to put the pin thru the holes, drop the switch over the rod and get it tight?
And did it crank or still not cranking?
Did you get the truck no crank or you trying to fix the PO wiring job?
Where was the wiring messed with, under hood, under dash, other?
Dave ----
And did it crank or still not cranking?
Did you get the truck no crank or you trying to fix the PO wiring job?
Where was the wiring messed with, under hood, under dash, other?
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,950
Likes: 2,718
From: Virginia
Once you get the ignition switch sorted out, before you put the column back up to the bottom of the dash bracket, clip your testlight on a good ground and poke the red/blue wire coming out of the ignition switch plug. Hook the battery up and then turn the key all the way to start. In the start position you should have power on the red/blue wire. If you do, you know you are good there and can bolt it back up and move on down the line and try to find the problem.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 98
Likes: 11
From: Near Jonesbourogh, TN
I have quit for today. I will align the new switch and reinstall. I have a needle (measures .047") for the alignment tool that I'll also use to check the red/blue wire tomorrow.
I'm at the age where fixing this old beast is a project, not a necessity. Plus, the temps cool down fast in the afternoon and wreck havoc with my arthritis. Tomorrow is a new day. You'll be the first to know when I get everything working.
Thanks again.
Chuck
I'm at the age where fixing this old beast is a project, not a necessity. Plus, the temps cool down fast in the afternoon and wreck havoc with my arthritis. Tomorrow is a new day. You'll be the first to know when I get everything working.
Thanks again.
Chuck
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 98
Likes: 11
From: Near Jonesbourogh, TN
Today, two steps forward, one step back.
I got the ignition switch alligned, and wiring straightened out so that the key cranks the engine. I could not find the alignment hole on the new switch, so I reinstalled the old one.
Engine now cranks and runs as long as the key is in start. Release key to run and it quits. Seems like I was at this point a month ago...
I did find the 2-into-one splice with the big red wire. Is the smaller red wire the 'hot on run, ignition resistor output?
Got it running! I corrected a couple miss-connected wires, and installed the ignition resistor that came with the Painless harness. It starts by the key, and runs! My stubborn attempt at using the factory ignition resistor was my downfall. I installed and wired the external resistor and the missing connection fell into place!'
I can't thank you folks enough for the help and your patience. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees!
Chuck
PS: After giving up on 'pinning" the new switch, and re-installing the old switch, I found the wire pin from the new switch. I got it installed first try! Happy camper!
I got the ignition switch alligned, and wiring straightened out so that the key cranks the engine. I could not find the alignment hole on the new switch, so I reinstalled the old one.
Engine now cranks and runs as long as the key is in start. Release key to run and it quits. Seems like I was at this point a month ago...
I did find the 2-into-one splice with the big red wire. Is the smaller red wire the 'hot on run, ignition resistor output?
Got it running! I corrected a couple miss-connected wires, and installed the ignition resistor that came with the Painless harness. It starts by the key, and runs! My stubborn attempt at using the factory ignition resistor was my downfall. I installed and wired the external resistor and the missing connection fell into place!'
I can't thank you folks enough for the help and your patience. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees!
Chuck
PS: After giving up on 'pinning" the new switch, and re-installing the old switch, I found the wire pin from the new switch. I got it installed first try! Happy camper!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 98
Likes: 11
From: Near Jonesbourogh, TN
Update: All the various connectors I asked about are removed. The wiring to them was part of the EEC system that was also removed. Almost all electrical issues have been resolved except a small drain on the battery. Truck starts and runs fine now. I just leave the battery disconnected while not working on the truck to keep from draining the battery.
Chuck
Chuck
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,831
Likes: 4,096
From: Angier, NC
Thanks for the feed back on getting it cranking & running.
As for the battery drain use a test light, not one of them new LED ones!
Hook it between the battery and a cable.
If the drain is a lot the test light will light up bright.
Remember door open the inside light will be on.
BTW is this turned off with the head light switch? Easy to be left on in day light.
Also under hood light could be on if you have one.
Pull 1 fuse at a time, leave out, till the light goes out.
This is the system you need to look at that could have the draw and draining the battery.
If none of the fuses turns the light off remove the charge wire, heavy gauge wire, from the ALT and see if the light goes out.
If so bad ALT and will need to be repaired.
Dave ----
As for the battery drain use a test light, not one of them new LED ones!
Hook it between the battery and a cable.
If the drain is a lot the test light will light up bright.
Remember door open the inside light will be on.
BTW is this turned off with the head light switch? Easy to be left on in day light.
Also under hood light could be on if you have one.
Pull 1 fuse at a time, leave out, till the light goes out.
This is the system you need to look at that could have the draw and draining the battery.
If none of the fuses turns the light off remove the charge wire, heavy gauge wire, from the ALT and see if the light goes out.
If so bad ALT and will need to be repaired.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 98
Likes: 11
From: Near Jonesbourogh, TN
Yes, I used the trouble light trick to determine there was a drain.
Last time I started the truck, I noticed the 'charge' light was on when running. I found a corroded wire on the voltage regulator that broke off when I was inspecting it. I cut off the regulator connector and crimped on new spade connectors. Fixed! Next, I'll try the fuse removal to find the drain. The drivers door courtesy light switch works but the passenger side is missing, so that could be the culprit. Almost ready to put the beast on the road. Added it to my insurance yesterday...
Still need to re-wrap the slimmed down wire harness.
Chuck
Last time I started the truck, I noticed the 'charge' light was on when running. I found a corroded wire on the voltage regulator that broke off when I was inspecting it. I cut off the regulator connector and crimped on new spade connectors. Fixed! Next, I'll try the fuse removal to find the drain. The drivers door courtesy light switch works but the passenger side is missing, so that could be the culprit. Almost ready to put the beast on the road. Added it to my insurance yesterday...
Still need to re-wrap the slimmed down wire harness.
Chuck
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,831
Likes: 4,096
From: Angier, NC
The drivers door courtesy light switch works but the passenger side is missing, so that could be the culprit.
From what I remember posted the lower model trucks only had the driver side light switch.
I dont remember what my 81 F100 Custom had as I pulled the trucks full harness and replaced it with the one from my 81 F100 Ranger parts truck that has both switches.
If you find pulling the fues dose not kill the light and have not pulled the large charge wire from the ALT do so.
The ALT will still charge the battery but diodes could be bad and the cause of the drain.
Dave ----
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