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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

EGR question

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Old Feb 25, 2023 | 11:43 AM
  #16  
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Couple pics for you, factory location 1996 F250..


Wire harness comes over the top of trans from the LH side.




 
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Old Feb 26, 2023 | 08:45 PM
  #17  
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Alrighty, was able to finally get some photos. First two photos are where my O2 sensor plug in is at. 3rd-4th, is the mystery plug in that I thought would be the O2 sensor by the vacuum reservoir, 5th is just how far I got this weekend. Engines in, only thing left is to get the god darn y pipes to fit properly, attach egr, fill power steering reservoir, fill radiator, time distributor, reattach vacuum lines and the ignition solenoids, belt, fan clutch.
My apologies to everyone for not commenting yesterday.




 
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Old Feb 26, 2023 | 08:46 PM
  #18  
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Will probably not have enough time until next weekend to continue working on it.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2023 | 09:48 PM
  #19  
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Alrighty another question, I know that the break in oil has to be a high zinc content break in oil for the hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. However I have been finding alot of differing opinions. Some people are saying after the break in oil to run any oil I want and that the zinc additives only matter for the break in period, not after. Others say to continue using high zinc oil to around 500 miles, and then normal non high zinc oil is fine. Some say to never stop using high zinc oil, or at the very least add a zddp supplement to the oil every oil change if using normal oil. I would like to know which is actually fine to do. Because if zinc is needed every oil change then I will just use shell Rotella 10w30. If it is not needed, I would like to go with my preferred brand, STP 10W30 (probably will full synthetic if I can).

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2023 | 12:03 AM
  #20  
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Dozens of stories and studies have been done on this topic. I have my own theory that "Your engine is broken-in by the time you get to the end of your driveway.". This is a generalization, but in terms of drivers inputs damaging the engine, it doesn't really matter. As for oil, the same holds true. Tractors supply cheap oil is the best for the first dozen miles to flush out all the dirt and dust that settled in the engine during assembly. After that, it's up to you how much you wanna spend on oil.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2023 | 09:21 PM
  #21  
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Update, got her running! But had to shut her off, my the pushrods which came with the camshaft were to short. My Grandpa thought they would work when the lifters pumped up but they didnt get tight enough. Installed the pushrods which originally came out on the drive side and they were all tight enough. Will be doing passenger side tomorrow!! But YEAHHHHH. Uploaded a video of it starting, alot of hard work for me to get to this point and alot of help from a very wise old man!
 
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