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Alrighty, so I am installing a used motor which I have rebuilt this coming Saturday. One of the things I'm worried about is that the old EGR valve/tube are completely rusted into one piece. They will not come loose short of blowtorching/melting the old exhaust manifolds. My headers I bought for this engine fit just fine, and they have the EGR hole. I was wondering however, since my engine is essentially a frankenstein if it would be okay to just plug the egr hole in the headers and take off the egr sensor and just shove it somewhere while plugged in.
The specs are as follows E9AE-6015-AA-10 block
Cylinders bored to 4.060
D0OE-C cylinder heads
Edelbrock part #2182 camshaft (yes I realize that the specs say not computer compatibible, however I spoke with the Edelbrock rep who said that there is no reason it should not work with speed density efi)
SUM-G9036 headers
Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons H336CP 60
This whole thing has been a huge learning experience so far, and well if it doesn't run, it will still serve for even more experience. Posted is the theoretical power output from desktop dyno.
Since the EGR connection is in the #1 header tube you have a 351W? Wouldn’t it be easier to buy a new EGR tube and mount the EGR valve where it is supposed to be? The cheapest line can be had for $20 on RockAuto. The valve needs both electrical and vacuum connections to keep the computer happy.
+1 on that, the valve has to be mounted and connected to vacuum and electrical to avoid a constant check engine light so you may as well buy a new tube and make it functional.
That cam isn't that radical and should cooperate reasonably well with SD efi, I'd be interested in hearing about your experience once the engine is in and runing.
Since the EGR connection is in the #1 header tube you have a 351W? Wouldn’t it be easier to buy a new EGR tube and mount the EGR valve where it is supposed to be? The cheapest line can be had for $20 on RockAuto. The valve needs both electrical and vacuum connections to keep the computer happy.
So one could not just cork the end of the vacuum line and call it good I guess. I guess im getting the blow torch out this Saturday. I had nother question while I am at it, the F250's 3/4 and up only had the one o2 sensor by the end of the transmission correct?
If you are doing a custom exhaust setup put the O2 as close to the engine as possible.... right at the pass side header collector for example. The factory exhaust has a little crossover tube between banks for the sensor but this isn't absolutely necessary, it will do it's job just fine in one bank.
If you are doing a custom exhaust setup put the O2 as close to the engine as possible.... right at the pass side header collector for example. The factory exhaust has a little crossover tube between banks for the sensor but this isn't absolutely necessary, it will do it's job just fine in one bank.
Thats my issue, I have only found two o2 sensor plug ins on my truck (with the help of other forum members a while ago). There is one right where the drive shaft meets the transmission (this one I know was where the original exhaust o2 sensor was plugged in..before it rotted off). And a second one we werent able to verify, right beside the battery. Only problem, a person would need a 3.5 to 4ft O2 sensor cable just to reach where the Upstream sensor should be.
…And a second one we werent able to verify, right beside the battery. Only problem, a person would need a 3.5 to 4ft O2 sensor cable just to reach where the Upstream sensor should be.
There was no oxygen sensor that screwed directly into the passenger side exhaust manifold so I have no idea what that plug is for. What are the wire colors and what does the plug look like?
There was no oxygen sensor that screwed directly into the passenger side exhaust manifold so I have no idea what that plug is for. What are the wire colors and what does the plug look like?
I will be working on it tomorrow, so I will try and upload some pictures of it towards the end of the day.
Then it only has one O2 sensor and it should be placed close to engine. The OEM exhaust looked something like this with the O2 right under the engine, if a PO installed a system with the sensor back behind the trans that isn't correct.
I will be getting pictures later today, but I have the spot for the o2 sensor up front, but with no place to physically plug it in. I had to drill a hole and get a o2 sensor clamp (dont have a welder). Just to be able to physically plug it in. Also what are you refering to when you say "PO"?
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