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Old Feb 20, 2023 | 01:50 PM
  #16  
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Yeah, it must be. I think that I will just need the extension. Thanks to both of y’all for taking the time to post those pictures.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2023 | 03:23 PM
  #17  
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Can you turn, or cut and weld, the shift arm on the shaft so it points straight up? Then find a push/pull cable to go between it and the end of the column, or make a simple bell crank to change the direction of the mechanical linkage? There's a threaded boss on the bellhousing just forward of the linkage that might be a good spot to mount either a bellcrank or the end of a cable.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2023 | 05:07 PM
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Here is an idea for a cheaper and easier solution.

Buy the external bracket from TCI for $30.
Remove the nut that holds the kickdown lever and put that lever aside.
Try to fit the bracket to the tube that the stock lever is attached to.
If it fits and can be cinched down with the compression bolt and allows you to go through the gears you may have a solution
If that works, remove the old stock lever without using a lot of heat and replace the kickdown lever. This should move independently from the gear selector
The hope is that the stock shifter column has the same or close diameter as the new bracket. fingers crossed
 
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Old Feb 20, 2023 | 05:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by speedfreak78
Can you turn, or cut and weld, the shift arm on the shaft so it points straight up? Then find a push/pull cable to go between it and the end of the column, or make a simple bell crank to change the direction of the mechanical linkage? There's a threaded boss on the bellhousing just forward of the linkage that might be a good spot to mount either a bellcrank or the end of a cable.
That's a great idea that I'm going to put in the folder of possible solutions.

Originally Posted by flowney
Here is an idea for a cheaper and easier solution.

Buy the external bracket from TCI for $30.
Remove the nut that holds the kickdown lever and put that lever aside.
Try to fit the bracket to the tube that the stock lever is attached to.
If it fits and can be cinched down with the compression bolt and allows you to go through the gears you may have a solution
If that works, remove the old stock lever without using a lot of heat and replace the kickdown lever. This should move independently from the gear selector
The hope is that the stock shifter column has the same or close diameter as the new bracket. fingers crossed
Is the stock shift lever a press fit on the shaft with a keyway?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2023 | 05:40 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by flowney
Here is the carb with the Edelbrock FE adapter and linkage installed. You can see the accelerator and kickdown links attached. This product is probably specific to Edelbrock carbs.


That can't work. The kick down must be pushed toward the firewall when you step into the throttle, you have it backwards. Notice the kick down link adjustment screw, it is nowhere near contacting anything. It looks like you let the kickdown linkage part drop down as You installed the carb, and now the kickdown rod is pashing on the lower side of the butterflies and the carburetor is about half or more open. Your idle screw is nowhere near the throttle linkage either.
Unhook your kickdown rod, and swing that arm it's attached to counter clock wise and bring it up above the throttle shaft.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2023 | 12:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Viper Pilot
Is the stock shift lever a press fit on the shaft with a keyway?
I don't know. I never investigated that but it might be worth looking into in your case. I suspect that it is welded on and would have to be cut away and ground smooth with a Tungsten Carbide Burr. Rotating the pipe/tube that it is attached to is what selects the gear so acquiring or fabricating a better fitting lever to replace it might be a viable solution. The TCI designed lever just might fit but, if not, could be used as a model for a similar bracket that does fit. A replacement lever would have to duplicate the arc of the stock piece in order to synch with the column mounted shift lever so measure that carefully before cutting. I would be wary of applying any significant amount of heat to this area lest it damage something internally.
I wish I could be more helpful but my truck, extra stock transmissions and many of my tools are a six hour drive away right now. All I have to rely on are pictures that I took back in 2016 or earlier. I hope to have the truck and tools at my new shop here in Florida in a month or two. The last few pages of my build thread show some of the details of this struggle.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2023 | 01:07 PM
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Here is a Eureka moment. While looking through my folder full of installation instructions for another item I stumbled upon my Flowtech installation manual (2 pages). Take a look at them as posted by Jegs. Note the reference to Figure A at the top of the first page then examine that diagram. This could be your easiest solution.

It says:
On some models equipped with the C-6 automatic transmission, it may be necessary to bend the linkage arm on the transmission. Bend it 1/2” to 3/4” in towards the transmission and make an adjustment at the steering column. See Figure A.
If this works for you we may have been over thinking this whole thing.


 
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Old Feb 21, 2023 | 03:14 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by flowney
Here is a Eureka moment. While looking through my folder full of installation instructions for another item I stumbled upon my Flowtech installation manual (2 pages). Take a look at them as posted by Jegs. Note the reference to Figure A at the top of the first page then examine that diagram. This could be your easiest solution.

It says:

If this works for you we may have been over thinking this whole thing.
It sure "better" better shows the issue he's having.
I'd hold one piece on the flat with a adjustable wrench for support, then use another pair to grab the part that gets bent inwards ... if me.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2023 | 05:16 PM
  #24  
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Well I’ll be dipped… Sure would have been nice if they would have included those instructions and we could have possibly saved the space on the forum server.

I had actually thought about doing the very same thing but the interference is so blatant that I didn’t think that any type of bending or reshaping would help without horribly screwing up the linkage geometry. I was also thinking that it would ultimately interfere with the kickdown linkage. I‘m still not convinced that it won’t. Anyway, sounds like they’re saying that an adjustment can be made. Not exactly sure what that means since the rod from the column to the trans has no adjuster, but we’ll figure it out. I’m going to take another look at it as soon as I can and hopefully get a good result. Thanks again gentlemen, and especially Frank for taking so much time to help.
 
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