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Automatic transmission trouble

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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 03:26 PM
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Automatic transmission trouble

Hello, my name is Sean and I’m new to this forum. I have a 2006 E250 2wd van with the 4.6L engine. I bought it cheap almost a year ago with 134,000 miles on it and I use it for hauling crew and equipment long distance to work sites. (Never has towed anything, no hitch on it) It is in great condition well maintained before I had it and was always used for highway trips. My last trip with it ended when we were almost home and entered the interstate accelerating then suddenly seemed to go into neutral and now it will not move at all. No funny noises and no codes come up on the scanner. Please help
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 03:43 PM
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Did you check the fluid level? Is it the fluid bright red or dark? Do you know if it has a 4-soles or 5-speed automatic?

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 190K miles
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 04:11 PM
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Thanks for a quick response. I think it is the 4 speed automatic. Three plus overdrive. Fluid is like new. Clean and smells good. I added an extra quart of mercon 5 and no difference so now it’s a little over full
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 05:45 PM
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No unusual noises like if you sheared an axle or the flex plate? Can you roll the van with transmission in P? Another way to check is to lift one rear wheel and try to turn it. With transmission in P and park brake disengaged, it shouldn’t turn. Are you familiar with releasing a transmission cooler line to see if it’s pumping fluid with the engine running?

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 190K miles

 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 06:15 PM
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It does shift in and out of park and will not roll when in park. I can hear a slight metallic rattle when idling. It’s not obvious and I think it’s the exhaust but I need to get under it to confirm. It’s sitting outside in the snow right now so I am waiting for the right time to move it and crawl under. Should I remove a cooler line at the radiator or at the transmission?
Thank you for your help
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 06:50 PM
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Unless you have experience working on an automatic transmission, you are near the end of what you can do in the field with snow all around you.

I'm not sure what scanner you used, but many if not most do not read transmission codes.

I would remove the cooler line at the radiator. I think it will be easier to capture the fluid that way vs. making a mess all over the underside of the truck and driveway.

You should enlist someone to help you. Just a turn of the key to hit the starter then off--don't fire it up and let it run. You are just looking to see if the fluid moves.

There may be a sensor with wiring where the manual lever control goes into the transmission. Check for obvious damage or disconnect. (sorry, just repeating that from other threads)

There may be more helpful hints before you call the tow truck. Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 07:37 PM
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My friend owns a shop and he used a new Snap On scanner and he was baffled. He thought it was a “hard part” failure like something mechanical broke and is not creating a code. I will start with the cooler line at the radiator and then check shifting linkage electrical connection. None of us have experience with this kind of problem
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 08:07 PM
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Checking for flow is fun. Is it useful? No, not at all.

If there is no flow, the trans needs to come out to fix it. If there is flow, the trans needs to come out to fix the hard parts that broke. There is nothing electrical that can cause this, so the suggestion to check the wiring won't help you at all, it just causes more wasted time and effort.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2023 | 09:50 PM
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The transmission in this van is likely a 4R75E (derivative of a 4R70W). Disclaimer. I am NOT a transmission technician. But if I were a betting man, my vote is the forward clutch let go. Either way, like Mark has already mentioned previously, the transmission is going to need to be removed to repair your problem. Doing any other of those checks is only wasting time and energy.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2023 | 12:57 PM
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Thank you

Originally Posted by m-chan68
The transmission in this van is likely a 4R75E (derivative of a 4R70W). Disclaimer. I am NOT a transmission technician. But if I were a betting man, my vote is the forward clutch let go. Either way, like Mark has already mentioned previously, the transmission is going to need to be removed to repair your problem. Doing any other of those checks is only wasting time and energy.
Thanks for everyones input. I really appreciate it. I will try to let everyone know what I find out

Sean
 
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