Hello,

A couple days ago I went to start my 1991 e250 with a 5.8L Windsor after sitting for about two weeks or so and right when I went to crank the engine, it cranked once then stopped. Any future attempt to run the car results in seemingly no power going anywhere. Fuel pump doesn't run (both external and internal) and starter does nothing. Headlights won't turn on, instrument panel gauges don't move - nothing. It's as if the battery isn't hooked up or is dead, but it is and is fully charged.

Ran fine not even a few weeks ago. It has a new engine with not even 100 miles on it, all new pumps, spark plugs, etc. It had a couple little issues like the EGR valve going bad, but nothing comes close to whatever happened here. The most notable thing I can think of that would've indicated some sort of electrical issue was that the headlights stopped working out of nowhere, just leaving the orange fog lights to light the way.

Now when I turn the key to start the engine, absolutely nothing happens except for two different clicks coming from somewhere near the engine. The instrument gauge's don't move, headlights won't turn on, nothing. The only thing that indicates power is the "CHECK ENGINE" light coming on, but then within a few seconds dimming significantly as if I'm cranking the engine. I was able to get some codes which don't help much - (539, 542, 10, 332).

*EDIT*

When I pull the switch the turn on the headlights, the "CHECK ENGINE" light comes on and the engine does the two ticking sounds as if I turned the key to the start position, but there's no key in the ignition. When I press the horn button, the engine clicks, "CHECK ENGINE" light comes on for a second, then shuts off again. What??

 

Do you have a known good ignition switch to try?

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 190K miles

 

As a matter of fact, I do have an extra one. I'll see if I can swap it out tomorrow and get back to you.

 

Some of them used to have a chaffing main loom near the e brake
You had better check that and check for corrosion near the battery on the main loom as well
You have something a bit worse than an ignition switch IMO
You might have a few problems and that switch may be one of them
The switch actuator may be another
The headlights is what leads me to a short somewhere

 

Swapping the switch made no difference, so your hunch would be correct there. I'll start by checking all the wires - including those under the dash and I'll get back to you if I notice anything out of the norm. The fuses are all in-tact. Any specific things I should look out for?

 

I found these stuffed underneath the dash near the steering column. No clue what they are or how long they've been like this for, but I do know I somehow haven't seen it until now. Could this be the culprit? What are these for? They look like they've definitely been cut by someone and I know it wasn't me.

Where it's located

Up close photo

I pulled it from up there

 

Alright, that was it. These little guys were causing all those problems. I just untangled them and put them out in the open, making sure they aren't touching anything, and suddenly everything works again. The headlights, however, still don't turn on. These must be related to that issue. I don't see where they were cut from. Only people who could've possibly done this were the mechanics I had change a transmission fluid line.

*EDIT*

Apparently that wasn't the issue. I walked away to get my keys, came back to start it, and it's suddenly doing the same thing again. All I did was reattach the intake hoses. I'm now at a complete loss.

 

I apologize for posting so often, but I'd like to essentially conclude this main issue by stating I have found the issue, and I feel quite silly.

It was the ground cable. It was loose and was barely attached to the frame. It only worked briefly because I happened to bump it a little when reinstalling the air cleaner housing. The van is back to the way it was - for good this time.

However, the headlights and sidelights still don't work. Any idea to what could be causing such a problem? I know the bulbs are fine and the fuse is also fine.

 

I used to see the connector melt and cause problems
It may need a new headlight switch
Pull the switch out and check for power in
Easier to swap a known good switch in there than do a bunch of diagnosis
You will be chasing your tail if the switch is faulty
There is switch continuity diagnosis in the EVTM if you were to find one and go that route