302 build
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2023
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302 build
Hello! I am a new member I’ve just bought a 93 302 and a zf5 speed for my 66 f100, I’m going to buy an edelbrock pro flo 4 efi, and I’d like to know what cam to put in and what headers to run with what diameter exhaust pipes to get good fuel mileage and low end torque, I see this is a pretty common question but I’m just looking for guidance specifically about the cam and exhaust system
please feel free to ask questions. Thanks!
also hoping to keep the build relatively inexpensive
please feel free to ask questions. Thanks!
also hoping to keep the build relatively inexpensive
Last edited by 66f1; Jan 12, 2023 at 11:23 PM.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 508
Likes: 29
From: NE Ohio
As far as cam goes, your wheel and tire as well as rear end gears come into play. Also, where is your preferred balance between performance and economy? There's several great cam specs out there, but knowing where you want the power to be vs power train gearing is key.
Far as long tubes go, I'd say for anything less than a straight strip 302, go with the smaller primaries. Pacesetter and others have good options. 2 or 2.5 inch exhaust for duel or single though.
Far as long tubes go, I'd say for anything less than a straight strip 302, go with the smaller primaries. Pacesetter and others have good options. 2 or 2.5 inch exhaust for duel or single though.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2023
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Hello! Thanks for responding! as far as performance I’m mostly building it for economy though I’m more going for low end torque I want to build a semi reliable daily hot rod out of it (or at least as reliable as a 66 can be 😁
and I’m not quite sure what my rear gears are right now but I’m pretty sure they are stock I’ll look into what those are maybe even crack open the pumpkin, but yeah thanks small primaries and up to 2.5” exhaust sick!
and I’m not quite sure what my rear gears are right now but I’m pretty sure they are stock I’ll look into what those are maybe even crack open the pumpkin, but yeah thanks small primaries and up to 2.5” exhaust sick!
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 508
Likes: 29
From: NE Ohio
You can try to find the axle code in the vin label, check against online database for free if you can, otherwise can jack up the rear, turn the wheels by hand and count the turns against the number of driveshaft rotations to give you the ratio.
General principal is that a hot rod, mild 302 in a truck, especially with larger tires, you're gonna want to wind up the engine in RPMs, 302 in a truck I'd recommend commiting to either performance or economy.
I had a built 302 in an 89 short bed with cam, cobra heads, long tubes, stock intake, maf conversions, ect, and after I dropped in the engine (barely 300hp), going from 3.5:1 to 4.10 gears was almost as much as a gain as the engine build itself.
That being said, in my limited experience, makes sense to build the engine then gear to suite, or vise versa. Won't hurt or cost anything more to gear the rear end to the engine after the fact like I did. Rear end swap is satisfying, just need a few tools and measuring devices like from harbor freight for cheap. Consider are track loc or similar while you're in there. Axle rebuild kit is about 100 bucks too.
General principal is that a hot rod, mild 302 in a truck, especially with larger tires, you're gonna want to wind up the engine in RPMs, 302 in a truck I'd recommend commiting to either performance or economy.
I had a built 302 in an 89 short bed with cam, cobra heads, long tubes, stock intake, maf conversions, ect, and after I dropped in the engine (barely 300hp), going from 3.5:1 to 4.10 gears was almost as much as a gain as the engine build itself.
That being said, in my limited experience, makes sense to build the engine then gear to suite, or vise versa. Won't hurt or cost anything more to gear the rear end to the engine after the fact like I did. Rear end swap is satisfying, just need a few tools and measuring devices like from harbor freight for cheap. Consider are track loc or similar while you're in there. Axle rebuild kit is about 100 bucks too.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2023
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Awesome thanks for the insight I’ll check out the ratio tomorrow and yeah like I said I’ll probably be running something smaller than 32” but definitely no larger also hoping to keep it mostly economical as I don’t need a speed machine I’m going to put in some glass pack mufflers kinda going for the not fast just loud gnarly and cool thing 😎
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2023
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Also found a set of equal length shorty headers that are 1 5/8 Inside diameter that I’m probably going to run, they are pretty cheap and I think are a good fit for my application
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Do not buy equal length shorty headers, the slight performance gain they have over unequal length is not worth the headaches they create with plug access and burnt plug wires. Buy standard 1.5" truck headers (not Mustang headers) instead.
Is this motor going to be a complete rebuild or are you bolting parts on a stock bottom end?
Did the engine and trans come from the same vehicle? If so you likely have an M5OD and not a ZF5.
Could you find and post the cylinder head casting numbers? They are on the underside of the inner intake runners so the intake manifold must be removed to see them. If you have not gone that far yet look for a capital letter cast into the outer top corner of the head and post that up.
Is this motor going to be a complete rebuild or are you bolting parts on a stock bottom end?
Did the engine and trans come from the same vehicle? If so you likely have an M5OD and not a ZF5.
Could you find and post the cylinder head casting numbers? They are on the underside of the inner intake runners so the intake manifold must be removed to see them. If you have not gone that far yet look for a capital letter cast into the outer top corner of the head and post that up.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2023
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Oh, okay, I shall have to check all of these things, and good to know to not go for the shorties. And I’ll check the trans as-well. I’m not going to do a full rebuild, just intake headers, cam, and maybe heads( probably not though).
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
OK, it should be a roller motor but the cylinder heads are a question mark... they could be E7TE's or E6SE. The E6 heads are great for low rpm torque output but don't flow very well and quickly become a bottleneck, while E7's flow better but aren't nearly as good as just about any aftermarket head you can buy.
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5th Wheeling
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Alrighty yeah I’ll get back to you guys on the ratios and castings and stuff. sounds like swapping the heads is not a Terrible idea, any cheap ones you’d recommend? like I said, I’m mostly looking for fuel economy and maybe just a little low end torque
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
There are certainly combos that can be put together to produce good results, it just depends if you want good low rpm torque and nothing else or if you want a to have some HP to go along with it. This motor as it stands has a 0-3500rpm powerband and as a result only produces 150-180hp at the crank, I know from first hand experience that there is a lot more untapped potential in these things, you can have a nice broad powerband with upwards of 300hp without any loss of lowend grunt.