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That does sound sweet, but I’m really just hoping to maximize flow and efficiency and then scavange whatever horsepower or torque is leftover. I think I’m looking for a power band up to like 5k?
Power and will depend on the cam selection, and how well it works will go along with trans, gears, and tire size. Regardless, the improvements you have on the table will make a world of difference. I think we we're trying to illustrate is maximum value and functionality, so you get out what you put in. I think we've all been there, learned we left things on the table the hard way.
That being said, you've outlined some great improvements. Money is an issue for all of us, but with what you have planned, some better heads (ported E7's, cobra gt40's, or explorer gt40P's are the cheapest stock replacement options) will make that combo sing! Might be worth looking into.
Awesome so it sounds like I’m on the right track , but ok I’ll check what trans I have and check those gears. those heads sound perfect, I too have heard that the gt40 heads would be an awesome place to start. Thanks again, as always you guys are super helpful .
Alright so looks like I have a zf transmission after all but I don’t know what gears set specifically it has and I haven’t yet found the rear end ratio
Right on! I haven't owned or operated a ZF yes, but rest assured it's a solid unit, what I've heard it will handle about anything performance or duty wise you can throw at it behind a naturally aspirated 302. I've only had the Mazda light duty tranny's, but that's a unit you've got there. Keep going man, I feel like we all share the excitement of each other's builds!
Awesome! Glad to know I got a good’n, I was pretty sure it was a ZF, just not 100%. Now I just need to find out if I have the close ratio or not close ratio gears.
Ok so I currently have an open diff with 3.70 gears probably will swap to an lsd and therefore the gearing can change will probably run 31” diameter tires and my transmission is geared at 5.72 2.94 1.81 1.00 0.76 looking for around 50- 60mph at an easy cruising rpm probably same rpm for 75-85 in the next gear And I’m going for those gt40 heads and truck headers now I’m just not sure what rear gears to run
Awesome man, you're on the right track for the right setup. If it were me, I'd get the engine/exhaust/trans combo in and running, with the wheel tire combo you want, then do the diff after the fact based on performance. That way, you can't go wrong on gears after the rest of the build is in.
Commend you on asking yourself and the forum the right questions. But don't stop there, consider every nut, bolt, clearance, and interaction of every part and system; heads to intake vs EGR, emissions system, ect.
To play devil's advocate, since you have a 5sp, at least take a look at a MAF conversion or aftermarket efi controller. Don't recall if you are keeping the speed density efi or not, but just putting it out there. In my build, it just made sense to go that far. If you could do what you are saying you intend to do mechanically, the MAF setup isn't out of the question. Not doing the SD deal, but dialing in a heads, cam, exhaust, maybe intake throttle body combo without it may be less than ideal. Not trying to scare you into more stuff, but I've been there, was worth it. Stock SD has it's limits, just consider your options. We're here to help brother!
gosh I feel like an idiot but I actually don’t know what a MAF or SD are I’m getting a efi conversion kit (edelbrock flo pro 4) and I know it’s kinda a all in one kit but I’d totally love to know if an MAF or SD is something that I don’t have and need I’m not sure, pretty sure it’s kinda all in one though
Ok just checked it out and I see you are talking about metering sensors, the kit does use speed density and I’m not sure if you are saying use both or if it’s either or but the kit has speed density, not sure about Mass air flow
Disregard my last post if the Edelbrock kit is an all in one stand alone. Must have missed that earlier in the thread. If it is, go to town! Research MAF and SD at will, but skip if you're bolting on an aftermarket efi setup. No need to dig up older stuff you're not gonna use. Sorry if I muddied the waters for you.
Oh no! Not at all! I’m very grateful to every helpful reply, all It’s doing is teaching me more which is awesome. Thanks again so much for the wisdom guys, I’ll keep ya posted.
Any insight cam wise? I’ve heard R.V. Cams might be a good place to start, but to be honest, I’ve never messed with cams before. I don’t really know what the specs mean, I know it’s like duration, and lift, but I don’t know how it translates to power or efficiency.
Any insight cam wise? I’ve heard R.V. Cams might be a good place to start, but to be honest, I’ve never messed with cams before. I don’t really know what the specs mean, I know it’s like duration, and lift, but I don’t know how it translates to power or efficiency.
A small engine like a 289 or 302 is very easy to over cam which will result in an engine that's a dog in an application which needs low and mid range torque a lot more than any horsepower gains at high rpm. Keep the duration at .050 down around 205-208 degrees and the lobe separation at under 110 degrees and it'll run well.
A small engine like a 289 or 302 is very easy to over cam which will result in an engine that's a dog in an application which needs low and mid range torque a lot more than any horsepower gains at high rpm. Keep the duration at .050 down around 205-208 degrees and the lobe separation at under 110 degrees and it'll run well.
Suggest straying away from SADI iron cams like some from Comp, otherwise you'll have to change your dizzy gear to bronze, composite, or comps recommended. If your going with a roller, stick with steel. Use a dizzy with steel gear like one from any roller Windsor. Ran a comp SADI cam with steel gear and the dizzy gear started eating it. Not worth the hassle in my opinion.
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