I recently replaced the cab bushings on my truck. There are quite a few threads about this project, and I read through many of them before tackling it myself. However, I was still a little unclear on some aspects of the job before starting. So thought I’d share some insights here in case it helps someone else. I don’t intend for this thread to be a full how-to guide, as I don’t consider myself qualified to offer that level of direction. This thread is just more of a supplement to what’s already out there. Will try to include pictures because I usually find them more helpful than a written description.

For key word search purposes, I’ll refer to them as body mounts also.

Basic process: loosen fasteners, remove all fasteners from one side, use puller tool to pull bottom halves out of mid and rear mounts, jack up cab on one side, remove upper halves, install new, lower cab, reinstall fasteners.

Things I wanted some clarity on:

1) Parts selection
2) Access to fasteners
3) Puller Tool
4) Where to lift cab
5) Orientation of new parts

Regarding sourcing the cab mounts themselves:

I got new rubber bushings from Ford, while they were still available. I think I bought them in 2017 or 18 from Tasca as they were much more affordable there than from my local dealership, even with shipping to KY. Not sure if they’re still available. Poly mounts would have been cheaper, and I hear some folks are satisfied with them. But from my perspective, the truck is rough enough and loud enough as is. I did not want to make it any worse. Not sure if the S&B silicone mount would be better than the poly options. However given that they offer hardware and a puller tool with their kit, I‘d strongly consider it if I had to do it all over again. No telling how old the stuff I got from the dealership was. Packaging looked pretty old. One thing about getting the bushings from Ford is they came with new sleeves for the upper bushings.

(Old) New Ford Bushings:



Handy part number list from member of another thread or maybe another forum:

Position #1 - Rad support
Position #2 - Under front doors
Position #3 - Rear of cab

Here are the part number for just the cab bushings:

- E2AZ-5400155-A (#1 lower) need 2
- EOTZ-1000396-A (#1 upper) need 2
- F4TZ-1000155-AA (#2 lower) need 2
- EOTZ-1000396-B (#2 upper) need 2
- F4TZ-1000155-B (#3 lower) need 2
- F5TZ-1000396-AB (#3 upper) need 2

I could not get the upper # 3 from Ford. Got those from Bronco Graveyard.


Couple points about access:

I have a topper on my truck. Wanted to rig up a way to remove it and store it assuming there might be some contact with it as I jacked the cab up. Found this really helpful idea on the super duty thread and was able to replicate it. Some 2x6, pulleys, hooks, steel cable, a hand crank and I can lift the topper with no help, no problem.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-hanger.html



I was also worried the sound insulation I put on my floor might be in the way. However, that was one of the items I was considering when I put then damping material in. I applied to the floor with Velcro straps, which worked very well for holding it in place but also enabled me to peal it back easily.




I also decided I would rather take the approach of removing more than needed to make access to fasteners easy rather than wrestle with stuff. So I pulled the front fuel tank as well as the batteries, battery trays and wheel well liners. These steps were probably not necessary. For example I’ve read you can loosen the front tank and slide it to the right. But I figured I’d exert as much effort trying to not remove stuff than to just get it out of the way. I timed the project with some fuel tank maintenance anyway, so ran the front tank as close to dry as possible to make the removal task easier. Tank most empty was not heavy and easy to maneuver.

Batteries and trays removed made it easier to get to the core support bolts:




Wheel well liner removed:



About the only photo I got of access with fuel tank removed. You can see the old cab bushing at the top right of this photo. Also gave access to inner frame rails for some much needed cleaning, wire brushing and painting.



Also provides really easy access to the selector. It’s just in front of the crossmember where the cab mounts sit. Front of fuel tank blocks easy access to the selector.



Previous photos kind of stitched together to show the view.



Next, the puller tool:

Several good pictures and write-ups here that explain the need to use a puller. I got a small section of exhaust from a local parts store. I think it was 18” because that’s what they had, but it’s longer than needed so I cut down to closer to 10-12”. I happened to have the right size threaded rod (7/16”). I was wondering if I needed to weld a cap on, but that really was not needed. Just used a piece of flat stock steel on the bottom of the pipe.

These steps are for the middle and rear bushings. You thread the rod into the sleeve inside the bottom part of the bushing. The sleeves are shaped like a “T. They insert through the upper bushing and lower isolator and press together forming the shape of an upper case “I” inside of the pieces. You are using the tool to pull the lower sleeve out from the upper sleeve.

I think the pipe was about $8 from a big box auto parts store.



Pipe slid around lower mount, and all-thread screwed into the bottom sleeve.



The cap I used for the puller was just a piece of flat stock. I drilled an appropriately sized hole for the threaded rod and placed at bottom of pipe. I had already ground the flat stock round on one side thinking I was going to have to weld it to the pipe, but that was totally not necessary. You can see from the photo below that a piece of flat stock could easily cover the pipe.

The thread and the pipe were longer than needed. I think this was after I had already trimmed the pipe down to about 12”. I think I ended up trimming the threaded rod too.



Was able to break loose with hand tools. Someone gave me one of those ratchets with the hole in the center a long time ago so I used that and didn’t to worry about cutting the threaded rod. Otherwise you would need to cut it and probably have a deep well socket.




For the front bushings the orientation is different. Bolt goes up from the bottom, threads into the metal sleeve on the top of the upper bushing, and there is a nut on top inside the radiator core support. I removed nut first; access was easier with batteries and trays removed.






Then tried to get the bolt out from the bottom. My truck is fairly rust free, but still had trouble with these bolts. They were essentially rusted to the sleeve in the upper bushing. I was able to hold the sleeve with a pair of channel locks (where indicated by arrow below) to get one bolt out. But the other broke off. I assume this is where a lot of folks get out cutting tools. I lucked out and did not have to do that. But I did have to go get new bolts.








If you’re core support is still in okay shape this is a good opportunity to wire brush and paint stuff.





Other side after some wire brushing and touch up paint...




Going to break this up into a couple posts.

 

Regarding where to lift cab:

This spot worked well and seemed to lift my long crew cab evenly.

 

Regarding orientation of new parts:

This probably sounds silly, but for me which new part went where was a little unclear until I got it all apart. Specifically with the front pieces. The middle and back parts are pretty straightforward. For middle and back positions, there is a larger upper bushing, and a smaller lower isolator. Larger upper part goes under cab and above frame. Smaller lower isolator part goes under the frame. However, for the front, it looks like three pieces on the truck, but there were only two new rubber bushings. I kept thinking I was missing something. One source of confusion is there is a metal spacer in the front set. It goes directly under the core support above the front upper bushing. It’s the third part down on the left in the image below. Presumably this part would not need to be replaced. It did not come with my new Ford bushings, and I assume would not be included with a new poly or silicone bushing kit from aftermarket suppliers.





Another source of confusion was the deformation of the old parts. For example there is a big fender washer on the front bolt between the bolt head (inserted from below) and the lower isolator piece. But mine were fused together. I had to cut the old rubber into pieces and wire brush the rest off to get the washer free.



Old:




New:



Some old pieces beside new:




New bushings going in:



I put caps over the ends of the bolts and coated all threads with anti-seize hoping this will make it easier to take a part next time it has to come apart.

 

One last note. For a couple of my rear four lower sleeves (I cannot remember if it was all or just a couple) the end of the inner tube was a bit mushroomed and would not push into the upper sleeve. I had to take them out after a failed attempt to install and tap a bit with a hammer to straighten out the mushroomed part. Then I used a bottle jack to press them back in enough to get the bolts started from the top.

Slightly mushroomed end:




A little straighter after some work with a hammer:





Pressing sleeves back in with bottle jack:






Last quick note, on scope creep. With this much apart it’s tempting to get involved with a bunch of other projects. For example I wire brushed and painted the tops of the frame rails. I also replaced the PS lines and rebuilt the PS pump. Also makes for really easy access to the oil cooler for replacing o-rings.



Hope some of these photos helps someone else out. For folks with more knowledge and experience than me, feel free to add to this thread with clarifications and tips. Thanks.

 

Great wright up dude. Hopefully Tom (TJCTransport) adds it to the Tech file.

 

Thanks for posting. The photos and diagrams are helpful. I have not attempted this yet, but I am book marking this for future reference.

 

Good write up and I have a new set to put in.

 

Great write up!

 

Most important question - was it worth it? Better ride? Fewer "noises?"

 

Thanks for the kind words.

Worth it, yes. I did not notice any major improvement with respect to ride quality or noise. But I wasn't expecting much on that front. For me it wasn't something I was going to do or not do based on whether it made the truck quieter or ride better. Parts were mostly wore out and needed to be replaced. Primary goal was to address significant cab sagging, and yes this fixed that. It opened a bit more room to get the downpipe centered between firewall and up-pipe.

 

Can anyone explain how to separate the rears? I have my pipe tool which worked fine for the mids, but the frame structure interferes back there. I ended up cutting out the passenger side, but I'm working around the tank on the driver's side. Getting fairly frustrated at this point!