When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The description says
"3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer is a heavy-based sealer specifically designed for filling exterior auto body definition seams including roof drip rails on older vehicles. "
The description says
"3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer is a heavy-based sealer specifically designed for filling exterior auto body definition seams including roof drip rails on older vehicles. "
I cannot recommend a drip rail seam sealant yet, because I had not used one to recommend. _ Tony.
Do you have a 3M product that you have used in a drip rail application that you could recommend?
The 3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer is the only 3M product that I have found that mentions use in a drip rail application. I've seen SEM products for drip rail applications, but they are quite a bit more complex in application methodology. The Drip-Chek Sealer looks like the easiest product to use for non-professional DIYers.
Do you have a 3M product that you have used in a drip rail application that you could recommend?
The 3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer is the only 3M product that I have found that mentions use in a drip rail application. I've seen SEM products for drip rail applications, but they are quite a bit more complex in application methodology. The Drip-Chek Sealer looks like the easiest product to use for non-professional DIYers.
Try looking thru this project...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lare-side.html for an answer. FuzzFace2 is a former body guy and he may recommend a product for drip rail usage. As stated, I have not used a product to fix my drip rail yet. _ Tony.
I was ocd on bumpside truck#2 drip rails because #1 had drip rail rust in progress.
I hand tooled all existing sealer out, used a heat gun to soften it. Wire wheeled, then sand blasted it. There’s a weld at the bottom I didn’t want water soaking into. Degreased then used acid etch. I used the aluminized rust bonding ‘masterseries’ paint then seam sealed, then top coated. Major pita but peace of mind for me. On the inside of cab I used undercoating wands to clean/etch/ then used the wax based coating. Don’t know if there was much rust preventative added up in those cavities you can’t see but feel with fingers. .02$
I was ocd on bumpside truck#2 drip rails because #1 had drip rail rust in progress.
I hand tooled all existing sealer out, used a heat gun to soften it. Wire wheeled, then sand blasted it. There’s a weld at the bottom I didn’t want water soaking into. Degreased then used acid etch. I used the aluminized rust bonding ‘masterseries’ paint then seam sealed, then top coated. Major pita but peace of mind for me. On the inside of cab I used undercoating wands to clean/etch/ then used the wax based coating. Don’t know if there was much rust preventative added up in those cavities you can’t see but feel with fingers. .02$
seems the older I get the more OCD I get also . I will diffiently use some of your techniques , maybe all of them .
I think I read a post where someone took their drip rail off..........oh now I just realized they may removed it but did not put it back......oh I see now
I was thinking you could take it off and reinstall it............this is why I keep asking..........now it appears you cannot do this !!!!!!!
Also will you elaborate on how exactly are these connected to the truck, it appears from this post you can see the rail seam from the inside , I have been to bust to look...... or even think about it......
That 3m stuff works great. But a word from the wise mask of any area close and make sure it’s smooth before it dries. It is near impossible to remove or sand and it’s usually applied under final primer coat. Good luck
I did drip rails and bed seam with the method In post #20, as bumpsideguy mentioned that seam sealer is tough to get contoured right. I had a ton of rags and a gallon of reducer. The reducer helped thin and remove mistakes or helped smoothing the finish. Kind of the same technique as caulking trim woodwork somewhere between ‘less is more’ and too much sometimes.