I'd spray with an electrical contact cleaner and blow dry with compressed air before coating with dielectric grease.

 

Will do.

From what I am learning, I need to go check the resistance through my BUS network. Should be 60 Ohms. All Data shows that these trucks have 3 different busses and I am having issues with HS1-CAN. If cleaning and greasing do not fix the issue and it Ohms out as it should, I will go get two new batteries and see what it does.

 

When my truck was new I pulled every connector I could get to, put dielectric grease on them and, after reconnecting, taped the whole thing (wire bundle to wire bundle) with electrical tape. Hope that fights of future gremlins.

I know it is the fuse box, but what does BJB stand for?

 

BJB = Battery Junction Box

 

My electrical gremlins were all because of a weak battery.
My truck was only 20 months old. ( but 50,000 miles) and I had to replace both batteries and no more problems.

Started off with the rear dome light occasionally staying while I drove.
Took it in and dealer said no codes, Can't trouble shoot or re-create problem. I took the tech out to my truck and started it and showed him the dome light not turning off. At the same visit, I had them do the Works where they change oil and check out basic stuff. They reported my batteries were in great shape.

Problems persisted. and expanded into errors.
Clock would change from 12h to 24h time
Traction control error
Adaptive Steering error
Adaptive cruise error

None of these showed up at Check Engine Codes that could be pulled. But all were sent to my Ford Pass app. In fact dealer said no codes when I took the truck in and I showed him my Ford Pass ap and said what are these then?

They got a little more serious about troubleshooting and reported back that batteries were weak. I let them change the batteries since it was in their shop ( Expensive compared to just going over to WalMart) but it fixed the problems
I've not had any error codes or gremlins in 20,000 miles since I changed out the batteries

 

I would definitely keep that under hood fuse box in mind, you mentioned the lid was missing. I noticed on my truck if the hood has any water on it, from rain or other means, when you open the hood that water runs down the back and will definitely will run into that right side fuse box. So if the lid was missing and that happened in the past the corrosion could be causing could cause a lot of problems.
I have worked on hi-tech water cooled electronic test systems for 20+ years. Our biggest headaches are when we have a slight water leak that slowly gets into the electronic boards and causes corrosion. This corrosion in turn can cause very strange problems that are not normally seen and hard to troubleshoot.

Good luck..

Mike

 

What is my best approach to figuring that out? I'm ready to give up on this truck. I just went through All Datas procedure on testing the HS1 CAN. I got open circuits on all 3 counts. Gonna go try to clean contacts and grease right now but I doubt that will help.

Just slapped new batteries in it as well, cleared all I could with the OBD code reader I have and fired it up. No changes.

 

Have you checked all the ground wires all over the truck for corrosion or being loose? Connector above the e brake has also been known to cause issues. But I still think your bjb might have corrosion in it.... bulletin I attached above might help some even though it is for a different year.

 

Have you taken it to a Ford dealer to let their tech diagnose it?

I'd certainly pay them the $150 for an hour of diagnostic time to see if they can tell me what was wrong.

 

With out removing your abs sensors…spray them down with brake clean and then use a leaf blower to dry them. Don’t use a hair dry or paint heat gun.

 

Before throwing any more parts at your truck or performing any brake cleaner and leaf blower rituals, I strongly suggest either a FORD dealer or a competent automotive electrical shop take a closer look at your trucks wiring, junction boxes and modules.

Or you can continue flushing cash down your toilet. Your call man. I worked at an automotive electrical shop for years and this truck is going to need lots of troubleshooting with the factory service guide and the proper equipment. I wish you success.

 

when someone comes on the forum and asks for help…I don’t think it’s helpful to say “take it to.m A dealer”

my local dealer only does oil changes and car washes and my understanding is that is the norm. Apts are scheduled 90 days out and rescheduled 3 times every 90 days until they just cancel the apt. I wouldn’t recommend anyone take their vehicle to a dealer.

 

I just spent all day with a diesel mechanic doing just that. We are missing the FordIDS, I know, but I can’t afford the dealers. This guy will get it, but it will take time. I am fixing to write up a lengthy update detailing everything we went through today and list codes.

 

Local dealers here actually out source a lot of their stuff to smaller guys/shops. I am lucky to have this mechanics help, especially with me owning no scanner yet.

 

Alright everyone, here is an update after a ton of back and forth and trying different crazy ideas.

Started off by hooking up the scanner. Had lots of codes related to communications mainly with the BCM. After clearing these, a good handful did not return, however everything related to the above issues was still there.

After having checked grounding, connectors being seated, visual checks on the wiring, we moved on to thinking faulty BCM. We unplugged everything, removed it, disassembled it even, and inspected the (2) motherboards to find that there were no obvious signs of shorts or damage. This doesn’t eliminate it completely, but it was worth checking. We cleaned the pins and boards best we could, reassembled, and reinstalled. Ran the scanner, deleted existing codes and rescanned, returned with all previous codes.

The BJB had been disassembled by me previously and unlike the 20+ models, does not have connectors to remove the box, so it doesn’t have a lot of room it seems to have significant shorts around the fuse terminals. That said we did test all fuses related to the failing modules and the 4 for the BCM. We found all fuses to be intact, and also found that fuse 51 (60A BCM Battery+ feed) could be removed with key on and be hot on both pins in the BJB. Does the BCM have capacitors or the ability to back feed? After a short time the truck entered a “shut key off to save power” message and then “died”. Acted like a dead battery until fuse was reinstalled, curious if that is normal?

Anyhow, the purpose of removing that fuse was to test the BCM to see if one of the 4 fuses being removed at a time added anything new and if we could narrow it down to a power problem. Doesn’t seem to be the case, assuming the BCM has the ability to back feed stored power to a certain voltage level.

Modules affect- Steering Column Control Module, Airbag Control Module, Restraints Control Module, A fleeting code for BCMB(only once), Trailer Brake Control Module, ABS Control Module.

P1140, U0151, U0212, P2269, U0452, U0557, U0102, U0140, U0155, P02E9, P0884, B10F3, B10F4, B115B, B109F, B1142, U0100, U0212, U0452, U0137, B1142.

I have to leave for VA so I am going to leave the truck behind now with the mechanic, I will continue making posts when I can get updates, but I will also accept and pass along any suggestions and try to keep this post going. I want this to be solved and then documented.. There isn’t a ton of posts that make it to solutions with things like this.