Check the connection above the emergency brake.

 

Tried and failed. I was hopeful about that one!

 

Maybe check the wiring harnesses under the door sills ? I've seen ARod on YouTube track a couple of strange issues back to water collecting in the trough , and corroding wires under the trim piece, causing havoc. Does it have rubber floors? If so, maybe the previous owner "washed" it out too many times? Worth a shot...
Good luck with it !

 

That's a fair point with the rubber floors! Those chases definitely have seen lots of dirt and grime and I should likely try to clean out the drains too. This was a work truck before I bought it, bought it as a work truck myself and will eventually be my personal.

She's going to know a lot of dirt!

 

I bet there are lots of owners who arent even aware that water gets into those sill channels. It doesn't take someone washing out the interior, or bringing in snow (although both can end up in the channel), most of the common water intrusion points lead to water pooling in those sill channels. My vapor barriers behind the door panels leak and drain into the sill channel. There are no drains under the sills. But, unless you have a break in a wire the water shouldn't be able to get through the sheathing causing corrosion.

 

Actually I do believe there are drains, I'll investigate to see if my truck has them, maybe it was 20 and up? But I definitely saw a video on them. My wiring looked healthy under the panels. Just dirty. 3 years of dirty

 

Let me know if you find drains, I've only heard of people making drains (drilling holes), that includes 2020+.

 

Wondering if it would be worth it to put sections of bycicle innertube over the various electrical connectors as a preventative action

 

Wondering if it would be worth it to put sections of bycicle innertube over the various electrical connectors as a preventative action

 

Another well established preventative approach I learned here is to pull those connectors and add some dielectric grease inside to insulate the prongs. I’ve done that on two trucks so far right away and have yet to experience the crazy multiple-codes. That and as stated above ensuring new batteries are in would be my first changes regardless at this point. Missing that lid to the fuse box and the obvious potential for moisture down in the bottom as someone else stated would be one of those triple-check deals for me as well.

Hope you get it sorted out without major financial damage, OP.

 

I suspect that would only trap more moisture.

 

The electronics on these trucks can be really tricky… Slightly long story, but a good example…
Last year I was rear ended and cracked one rear light assembly. Not a big deal, only that when I was braking I had the “cross traffic alert non functioning” alert. I had it repaired but when I went to pick it up the alert was still there, the shop said to not worry that it would have to re-learn the radar by itself. That same day I started a trip with my travel trailer, the first couple of days I kept having the alert but then instead of “fixing itself” I started having other gremlins coming up. The radio started to disappear, no four wheel drive, the electric windows stopping working, and so on… It was a nightmare, I stopped along the way by two Ford dealerships but they had no idea… Horrible, every day I didn’t know what was going to fail, but I was far from home so i just kept going…
​​​​​​….After three weeks I had an appointment to leave my Lance by the factory in Lancaster for some maintenance. So I did, and the following day I made the trip back home. At the beginning I still had all the gremlins but during the trip they started to be less and less. The “cross traffic” alert that was constant for three weeks became firstly intermittent and then disappeared. By the time I got home some four hundred miles later nothing was wrong, it seemed incredible…
That of course made me think that there was something connected with the trailer. I have an extension cord to accomodate the extra length of the ProPride hitch, so I checked it… and there it was, the plug on the trailer side was evidently squeezed somehow and even if it wasn’t broken on the outside the contacts inside were lose!
So this is what happened: the original cracked rear light made for a loose contact that was phisically fixed by the repair. But I immediately started using the defective cord extension which probably had an intermittent ground, and that did not allow the computers to re-learn the radar but instead it created a whole lot of other faulty signals. To me (and the dealer’s mechanics) the coincidence with the light repair distracted from looking for possible other causes.
Good thing is that actually the computers seem to fix themselves once the conditions are corrected. But not immediately, it was not enough to just disconnect the faulty extension to fix things, it took all of the 300 miles or so, and that makes it very, very difficult to check…

 

its always worked on my zippos so i wasnt sure. But now that you mention it water could get in from the back side of the plugs and work its way into the connection.

 

These types of multiple issues are often caused by problems on the CAN bus circut, if something happens to a terminating resistor all sorts of issues will occur because the data shared between the various modules gets corrupted. This is why seemingly non-critical connectors at the back of the vehicle can cause so many problems, not to mention when people try to add electrical accessoires to the wrong circuts. You probably need to send it to a good dealer.

 

Alright, so I got into the BJB and everything seems fine.




All issues are still prominent. I am going to go start unplugging and greasing all plug in under the truck.