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2002 F250 7.3 diesel plow truck (yard truck) ignition switch is janky and I would prefer to just ditch the key. Can I just remove the ignition switch and wire up a toggle switch (ignition on) and momentary button (start)? Will removing the ignition switch from the column prevent the steering wheel from locking? I see they sell fancy computerized push button start kits but I just want dirt simple and reliable mechanical switches.
Assuming there's not an issue with the actual ignition switch, just drill out the center of the cylinder so all the tumblers fall out then it'll turn free and never lock again. If it's the actual switch that has issues, I'd just unplug the harness from the switch on the column under the dash and tap in there, instead of tearing the column apart.
The issue is I have to frig with the shift lever to get the key to the off position. Then once it's off and the key is out it still thinks it's switched to the first position and the chime dings until I jiggle it just right and once when I slammed the door it started chiming again. I wasn't going to tear the column apart as it was my understanding the ignition switch is super simple to remove. I wanted to know if I could remove it (and not replace it) then wire things up they way I described... which from what you describe could be done to that harness connector.
Install a "race car" style switch panel. You'll need to dig up one that has the switches you need and that can handle the high current circuits and then wire it up to duplicate the original functions of the ignition switch.
The issue is I have to frig with the shift lever to get the key to the off position. Then once it's off and the key is out it still thinks it's switched to the first position and the chime dings until I jiggle it just right and once when I slammed the door it started chiming again. I wasn't going to tear the column apart as it was my understanding the ignition switch is super simple to remove. I wanted to know if I could remove it (and not replace it) then wire things up they way I described... which from what you describe could be done to that harness connector.
Sounds like there's issues inside the column if you need to mess with the shifter to get it to lock. The ignition switch is easy to remove, it under the dash on the column. The key cylinder is usually a pain to get out. I haven't done a SD, but every other car I've ever worked on you have to remove the steering wheel and disassemble the top of the column, which sometimes takes special tools, to get the cylinder out. They make it difficult on purpose so you can't easily pop it out to steal a vehicle. If you're gonna remove the cylinder, I'd do that first cause you might get in there and realize it's something easy to fix. Otherwise, wire it up like you said and drill the cylinder out.
Nah, it's easy. You just need to push the release pin on the underside of the housing with the cylinder in the RUN position and pull the cylinder out. You might have to remove the lower column cover.
Sounds like there's issues inside the column if you need to mess with the shifter to get it to lock. The ignition switch is easy to remove, it under the dash on the column. The key cylinder is usually a pain to get out. I haven't done a SD...
I think the whole ignition switch and key cylinder comes out by turning the key on then pressing a button under the steering column with a punch. I guess it's easy as long as you have a key. I also just learned about the loose shift lever common issues/fixes so I'll check that too.
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Install a "race car" style switch panel. You'll need to dig up one that has the switches you need and that can handle the high current circuits and then wire it up to duplicate the original functions of the ignition switch.
Are there high currents? I figured the ignition switch would feed relays for anything with a large draw.
also just learned about the loose shift lever common issues/fixes so I'll check that too.
If you've got a "sloppy shifter", fixing that would likely make the other part of the project moot.
Are there high currents? I figured the ignition switch would feed relays for anything with a large draw.
Yeah, a quick look at the factory schematics shows that at least two of the circuits through the ignition switch are fused at 50A. Didn't dig too deeply at this time.
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