Locked up motor help!
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 307
Likes: 33
Locked up motor help!
99 f450 auto trans. We blew out a second flex plate in a few mos. Pulled the trans, flex plate spacer and shim to inspect. Realized we got a used motor w the short pins for a manual. Took 3-4 mos to get back to it and We welded on nuts on the pins and used slide hammer to remove.
replace pins new flex plate and go to tighten the torque converter bolts and can’t spin the flywheel. Put strong arm on the front of motor can’t budge it. Put starter in it and tink. Won’t budge.
motor was running fine before trans removed. Oil fine no diesel or water/coolant. Coolant level right at the line. Any thoughts appreciated?
replace pins new flex plate and go to tighten the torque converter bolts and can’t spin the flywheel. Put strong arm on the front of motor can’t budge it. Put starter in it and tink. Won’t budge.
motor was running fine before trans removed. Oil fine no diesel or water/coolant. Coolant level right at the line. Any thoughts appreciated?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,271
Likes: 1,654
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
I wishfully want to believe you inserted the TC all the way in because if you didn't there's your problem, but at an expense of a broken trans oil pump and damage to the TC and maybe more.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 307
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I didn’t install the flex plate thinking maybe we forgot the shim or bolted the flex plate pinched something binding it up. Or maybe a failed injector o ring or bad injector and we have hydro lock. I’ve got blocks sitting around been on the floor of our shop years and they still turn. Hard to imagine it’s the rings or anything else major.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Have you pulled the oil pan drain plug to check for signs of water? I would about have to think something has gotten bound also. Just having trouble thinking what it might be. If you're pretty sure the back is right what about the front, belt drive, oil pump, gear train?
Edit: Have you tried forwards and backwards on the balancer bolt?
Edit: Have you tried forwards and backwards on the balancer bolt?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 307
Likes: 33
Have you pulled the oil pan drain plug to check for signs of water? I would about have to think something has gotten bound also. Just having trouble thinking what it might be. If you're pretty sure the back is right what about the front, belt drive, oil pump, gear train?
Edit: Have you tried forwards and backwards on the balancer bolt?
Edit: Have you tried forwards and backwards on the balancer bolt?
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 307
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
If it turned over fine before you pulled the transmission and now it won't, the problem is somewhere in the repair job you just did.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2017
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betting he left shim off between shaft and spacer before flywheel and the flywheel bolts touching the block. That shim isn’t much but it’s there for a reason.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 2,934
From: Reed Point, MT
I'm having a hard time visualizing what the last post is describing.
For the installation of an automatic, there is no shim between the engine block and the transmission bellhousing; the thick aluminum spacer/starter mount is all that goes there. The small plate that goes between the flexplate bolts and the flexplate isn't necessary to turn anything or even run but it spreads the bolt clamping force more evenly. The flexplate bolts also cannot bottom on the block anywhere as they're blind holes into the crankshaft - not into a flange.
For the installation of an automatic, there is no shim between the engine block and the transmission bellhousing; the thick aluminum spacer/starter mount is all that goes there. The small plate that goes between the flexplate bolts and the flexplate isn't necessary to turn anything or even run but it spreads the bolt clamping force more evenly. The flexplate bolts also cannot bottom on the block anywhere as they're blind holes into the crankshaft - not into a flange.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 307
Likes: 33
I'm having a hard time visualizing what the last post is describing.
For the installation of an automatic, there is no shim between the engine block and the transmission bellhousing; the thick aluminum spacer/starter mount is all that goes there. The small plate that goes between the flexplate bolts and the flexplate isn't necessary to turn anything or even run but it spreads the bolt clamping force more evenly. The flexplate bolts also cannot bottom on the block anywhere as they're blind holes into the crankshaft - not into a flange.
For the installation of an automatic, there is no shim between the engine block and the transmission bellhousing; the thick aluminum spacer/starter mount is all that goes there. The small plate that goes between the flexplate bolts and the flexplate isn't necessary to turn anything or even run but it spreads the bolt clamping force more evenly. The flexplate bolts also cannot bottom on the block anywhere as they're blind holes into the crankshaft - not into a flange.
pulling passenger valve cover first. Seems remote but nothing makes sense about this.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
scratch that. You are correct. I looked at the block on the floor and got under the truck and looked. There’s no obstruction between the flywheel and the motor. I cannot imagine how the install of the flywheel has anything to do w the fact we can’t turn the motor. Idk.
pulling passenger valve cover first. Seems remote but nothing makes sense about this.
pulling passenger valve cover first. Seems remote but nothing makes sense about this.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 2,934
From: Reed Point, MT
Here's an EASY check. You might have one or two nuts on the torque converter at this point....take them off. Can you push the torque converter toward the transmission at all? The torque converter should move backwards 1/8" or so. If it does not move at all with the nuts removed, there's your problem.
Hydrolocks USUALLY allow crank movement in the opposite direction at least a little bit and they usually clear up after a few days to a week as the offending liquid will eventually get past the rings and into the crankcase.
Hydrolocks USUALLY allow crank movement in the opposite direction at least a little bit and they usually clear up after a few days to a week as the offending liquid will eventually get past the rings and into the crankcase.