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I'm guessing this has been the vacuum leak I've been fighting. Just bought this 1975 F100 and installed new carb but does'nt run very well and "diesels" when I shut it off. I ordered a new complete gasket kit for the truck as I plan to pull motor after next summer. If my gasket kit does NOT come with this gasket (which I'm certain with my luck it won't. Would high temp silicone work or is there a part # for this? I'm guessing this is called an "intake base plate gasket'?
I'd get a sheet of cardboard like gasket material (not cork) and use my exacto knife and cut me a gasket, then grease both sides of it with a thin smear of axle grease and install it. A dress box from Macy's works.
The grease will seal while not gluing the gasket in place, it will also slightly swell the cardboard which doesn't hurt sealing, and leave it easy to check it's condition next month too when you have your new gasket set. It's under a vacuum, not pressure.
It appears there is coolant leaking from the square bore carb spacer also. The dampness in the intake looks to be coolant which will make it impossible to get it to idle properly. Does your new carb have a provision for your PCV valve to? If so eliminate the oem base plate and replace with a phenolic spacer. They come in various thicknesses. I would start with a thickness that's equal to your current base plate so not to complicate how your throttle linkage mates up.
I had taken off the water hose just before i took the plate off. Might be why it looks like it was leaking. I have my brake booster attached to back of Quick fuel Brawler 4bbl carb.
I had taken off the water hose just before i took the plate off. Might be why it looks like it was leaking. I have my brake booster attached to back of Quick fuel Brawler 4bbl carb.
That explains it One common problem with ford intakes is the exhaust crossover, in some versions, is that enough heat in the right conditions is radiated from the intake to the bowls on the carb that it will boil ethanol fuel quite readily. To prevent that a phenolic spacer is used to provide a thermal break preventing "heat soak". The spacer you have is from the mid 60's and will always be a problem finding the right replacement gasket.
That explains it One common problem with ford intakes is the exhaust crossover, in some versions, is that enough heat in the right conditions is radiated from the intake to the bowls on the carb that it will boil ethanol fuel quite readily. To prevent that a phenolic spacer is used to provide a thermal break preventing "heat soak". The spacer you have is from the mid 60's and will always be a problem finding the right replacement gasket.
I DO have a 1" phenolic spacer that i put on top of that one. You're saying i should remove that EGR stock spacer and just run the phenolic? I'd have to figure out where to attach the PCV hose as well as the water hose.
I DO have a 1" phenolic spacer that i put on top of that one. You're saying i should remove that EGR stock spacer and just run the phenolic? I'd have to figure out where to attach the PCV hose as well as the water hose.
That spacer is pre-egr valve. The egr valve was mandated in the early 70's. Your PVC valve should be connected to it. Your carb where you have your power brake booster connected is usually connected to the vacuum tree mounted in the back of the intake manifold. Your PVC valve connects to that spot on your carb. Also they make phenolic spacers with the PVC plumbing provision.
The coolant passages on your current spacer can be easily be eliminated by capping off the plumbing at the source as long as you have an adequate choke set up. I would run the 1" phenolic spacer you have on top of the intake with the proper gaskets. Once you have it half-way running check for vacuum leaks again using a spray can of your choice WD-40 or brake clean etc. lightly spraying the suspected leak area noting if an increase in rpm of your motor happens. There's where your vacuum leak will be.
I fixed that and its running very well now. Only problem i have now is "Dieseling" when i shut it off
Idle speed to high will do it too.
To hot a plug and carbon build up is also a cause but most of the time idle speed to high.
If you have an auto trans shut it off in gear then when off put in park.
Dave ----
That spacer is pre-egr valve. The egr valve was mandated in the early 70's. Your PCV valve should be connected to it. Your carb where you have your power brake booster connected is usually connected to the vacuum tree mounted in the back of the intake manifold. Your PVC valve connects to that spot on your carb. Also they make phenolic spacers with the PCV plumbing provision.
The coolant passages on your current spacer can be easily be eliminated by capping off the plumbing at the source as long as you have an adequate choke set up. I would run the 1" phenolic spacer you have on top of the intake with the proper gaskets. Once you have it half-way running check for vacuum leaks again using a spray can of your choice WD-40 or brake clean etc. lightly spraying the suspected leak area noting if an increase in rpm of your motor happens. There's where your vacuum leak will be.
I already have the 1" phenolic spacer. I'm thinking of removing that stock EGR spacer and just run the phenolic spacer, problem is it doesnt have the PCV port on it. Is it possible to run the PVC line to the air breather (like it is on the drivers side) or an "intake tree"? Or run to back of carburator and move my brake booster? I could go buy the 1" phenolic with the PVC port, but then I'm in the same scenario.
I feel like my vacuum advance isn't pulling enough vacuum from carb port. It pulls lots on bottom front port of carb,, but not near enough on the side port. Truck is timed at 10* with vacuum plugged,, but cant get anymore once the vacuum advance line is attached. (i DO have a new distributor coming)
This is all a Duraspark system
I already have the 1" phenolic spacer. I'm thinking of removing that stock EGR spacer and just run the phenolic spacer, problem is it doesnt have the PCV port on it. Is it possible to run the PVC line to the air breather (like it is on the drivers side) or an "intake tree"? Or run to back of carburator and move my brake booster? I could go buy the 1" phenolic with the PVC port, but then I'm in the same scenario.
I feel like my vacuum advance isn't pulling enough vacuum from carb port. It pulls lots on bottom front port of carb,, but not near enough on the side port. Truck is timed at 10* with vacuum plugged,, but cant get anymore once the vacuum advance line is attached. (i DO have a new distributor coming)
This is all a Duraspark system
The vacuum advance may or may not be adjustable. If it is adjustable you can adjust by inserting an allen wrench into the vacuum connection on the vacuum advance. Crane makes an adjustable aftermarket vacuum advance. If you have any trouble locating the instructions on how to adjust it or locating a replacement let me know. Your new distributor may come with an adjustable one so best to wait until you have the new one. The vacuum advance may just not be operating freely and need to be lubed a little with some white grease and a q-tip. Test the vacuum advance with a hand held vacuum pump for function. The rubber diaphragm may have a leak in it and not operating within specs.
If you take a pic of your intake behind carb we can ID a spot for the power brake booster vacuum connection. No need to buy another phenolic spacer with the PVC provision. I think you can safely eliminate the aluminum oem carb spacer and come up with a workable solution.
Ported vacuum from side of carb doesn't have any vacuum until throttle is opened, that's normal. I didn't see an egr port in manifold picture. I don't ever remember a water heated egr spacer plate. PCV should normally be in carb base and booster on a vacuum tree. I don't remember a water heated carb spacer much later than mid 60's. Anything's possible and memory getting fuzzy.